Serious questions serious problems heads gonna explode.... - Page 2 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #16 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 05:46 PM
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Also considering that seems to be a stock turbo on there running a whole 5psi I doubt the car has these mods in it either


Rev oversized valves
Crower Valve Springs/Retainers
Crower Stage 3 Camshafts
ARP Headstuds
ARP Rod Bolts
Mopar Crankshaft
Mopar Bearing Set
Wisco 8:8 Forged Pistons
Machined Head and Block

AGP SOMETHING OR OTHER TURBO
TUNED BY NIGEL
373WHP
368WTQ
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post #17 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 05:52 PM
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Holy shit, I'm sorry and hope you can get this all figured out. Who the fuck tunes a car at 5psi? I don't believe that the engine is built either, no way someone built a bottom end for a stock turbo car and half asses the rest of the build like this.

Start by running the check engine codes, you don't need a code reader on these, you cycle the key a few times (forgot exactly what you have to do, I have a code reader) and the code shows up on the trip/ODO display. It sounds like it may not have been rescaled for those injectors and is running stupid rich (does it have a wideband?).

Battary light can be explained by the battery temp. sensor most likely not being on the car

The car shell may not have ABS since it was a swap (not sure if it was standard or not) so that could explain that light, look for the ABS hardware near the brake booster to see if it has everything.

And no a diablosport programmer should not cause ANY lights to come on.

Also, with no WGA, where is the boost going? Is the wastegate flapper just always open and its not building any?

As for the purpose of a swap, it can be cheaper to throw an SRT4 engine in your neon than buying a real one, a wrecked one isn't that expensive. You also don't get the sky high insurance cost that is usually associated with boy racer turbo'd rice rockets, so it will end up being significantly cheaper in the long run because of that. I am half tempted to buy a regular neon with a blown engine for cheap and swap my stuff over, I would like a white car and my car sort of needs a new roof skin, as it looks like a previous owner sat on it and put some creases in it, I was pissed when i noticed that after buying it.


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post #18 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by STV3 View Post
Also considering that seems to be a stock turbo on there running a whole 5psi I doubt the car has these mods in it either


Rev oversized valves
Crower Valve Springs/Retainers
Crower Stage 3 Camshafts
ARP Headstuds
ARP Rod Bolts
Mopar Crankshaft
Mopar Bearing Set
Wisco 8:8 Forged Pistons
Machined Head and Block


Well I guess i have to figure out what it really has and if its a swap im furious because that guys a idiot to do such a thing but i got it on paper that he traded me a 05 SRT4 so there might be something i can do with that...

other than that i like the car i would like to get it in running order but if i cant get it working then who knows
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post #19 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by benspilk09 View Post
Holy shit, I'm sorry and hope you can get this all figured out. Who the fuck tunes a car at 5psi? I don't believe that the engine is built either, no way someone built a bottom end for a stock turbo car and half asses the rest of the build like this.

Start by running the check engine codes, you don't need a code reader on these, you cycle the key a few times (forgot exactly what you have to do, I have a code reader) and the code shows up on the trip/ODO display. It sounds like it may not have been rescaled for those injectors and is running stupid rich (does it have a wideband?).

Battary light can be explained by the battery temp. sensor most likely not being on the car

The car shell may not have ABS since it was a swap (not sure if it was standard or not) so that could explain that light, look for the ABS hardware near the brake booster to see if it has everything.

And no a diablosport programmer should not cause ANY lights to come on.

Also, with no WGA, where is the boost going? Is the wastegate flapper just always open and its not building any?
It has a forge wastegate. also dont know where the brak booster is and also are we absolutely 100% sure this is a swap and not a DMV mistake from the getgo...
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post #20 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:03 PM
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Download or buy a service manual, find vacuum diagrams.

Fix your fuel leak, vacuum leaks, Get an INTAKE ON THAT THING with an air filter. Make sure the wastegate is on and working properly. Start there. Why waste money on A/C and heat when you can't barely drive it anyways. OR take it to a REPUTABLE shop and tell them whats going on and they can try to fix you up. This can all be repaired..it's just going to take lots of time and PATIENCE, and some learning. But over all you need patience and to get it running right (reguardless of what lights are illuminated on the dash). If you need PM me and I'll help you out as much as I can.
The heat should be easy (running 2 hoses from the firewall to the engine), A/C needs a compressor and shit probably. Post more detailed pics of the engine. front, close ups of the top/front.
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post #21 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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post #22 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by joeydub7 View Post
It has a forge wastegate. also dont know where the brak booster is and also are we absolutely 100% sure this is a swap and not a DMV mistake from the getgo...
Best way is to run the vin number. I'd say if you have in paper that he claimed to sell you an 2005 dodge neon srt-4 and its really a 2001 neon you could probably pursue legal action. The guy must be a real scum bag to do something like that.

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post #23 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Download or buy a service manual, find vacuum diagrams.

Fix your fuel leak, vacuum leaks, Get an INTAKE ON THAT THING with an air filter. Make sure the wastegate is on and working properly. Start there. Why waste money on A/C and heat when you can't barely drive it anyways. OR take it to a REPUTABLE shop and tell them whats going on and they can try to fix you up. This can all be repaired..it's just going to take lots of time and PATIENCE, and some learning. But over all you need patience and to get it running right (reguardless of what lights are illuminated on the dash). If you need PM me and I'll help you out as much as I can.
The heat should be easy (running 2 hoses from the firewall to the engine), A/C needs a compressor and shit probably. Post more detailed pics of the engine. front, close ups of the top/front.
Dallas
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post #24 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:32 PM
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Take a picture of the wastegate. No aftermaket wategate have a 5psi spring so you probably have a big boost leak or a shot turbo.
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post #25 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Take a picture of the wastegate. No aftermaket wategate have a 5psi spring so you probably have a big boost leak or a shot turbo.
Text me please numbers ^
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post #26 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:37 PM
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Also I'm not sure what this metal box right over the washer fluid is:
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post #27 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:41 PM
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Hid driver?

This is why you don't buy a car without doing your homework first.

I feel sorry for the buyer.

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post #28 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I need help bro
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post #29 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:45 PM
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Also I'm not sure what this metal box right over the washer fluid is:

Looks like a hid ballast
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post #30 of 85 (permalink) Old 01-16-2013, 06:55 PM
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joeydub7: I would start by reading this post.
SRT-4 Performance Modifications and Upgrade Paths

It will give you a good base of where to start. But the car is a mess. I especially fear for the wire hraness rubbing on the sharp metal like that. That is not where the PCM should be. It should be install here with a bracket in front of the cold pipe, to the left of the radiator. Like this:


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