My car has major issues.... LONG PLEASE HELP ME!!!
back when my car was stock i could do a 13.9 no problem...... and now thats a whole different story.... here are my current performance mods:
Greddy Profec E-01 (Set: 65-- Gain: 25-- Start: 15.0)
Greddy Oil Catch Can
Greddy Type-S BOV w/ ATP pressure pipe
Greddy TT
Perrin FMIC
AEM CAI
AGP BOP
Autometer 30psi Guage
3" Custom exhaust w/ Apex-i N1 Turbo Muffler
I NEED SOME HELP FROM THE BEST OF THE BEST!!! Today i ran the car at the track front tires at 26psi and i was doin 60' times around 2.0 and 2.1 BUT i could only trap 97 and 98 mph.... my times were 14.1-14.2 and as i watched my boost it was doin this:
1st gear: 13 psi
2nd gear: 15 fade to 13 psi
3rd gear: 15 fade to 13 psi
4th gear: 16 fade to 14 psi
Just over a week ago i was seeing 18psi fade to 16psi in 3rd gear.... i know there is a leak but please help me if anyone could provide an extremely IN DEPTH vacuum layout for my car..... i can explain what i have right now.....
SOLENOIDS:
#1 ALL CAPPED
#3 ALL IN TACT
#2 ALL CAPPED
BOOST CONTROLLER
WGA ------ E-01 -------- Turbo
BOV
Red Line Capped.....
BOV T-ed into Intake Manifold
CATCH CAN
Passenger side PCV ------ CATCH CAN -------- Intake Manifold
INTAKE
PCV on Drivers Side has a Breather Filter
IM BEGGING FOR HELP GUYS SOMETHING HAS TO BE DONE WRONG EVEN THOUGH I USE THE FORUMS AND INSTRUCTIONS TO DO EVERYTHING!!!! PLEASE HELP ME
I may not be the best help but I thought of something that MIGHT be a factor. 1) Could it be a traction issue. Maybe with the tires. Or even a clutch issue. Maybe the clutch is a little worn and isn't grabbing as hard. (I'm not real familiar with our clutches so if this is a dumb statement, please inform me.)
Also, as for the boost gauge, you did mention that you have a non-stock guage installed, right?
Actually, that sounds like long-term knock retard. (not calling YOU a retard, fyi)
When I had knocking in my S3 car, it wouldn't boost over 15 psi in DAB 3. Try unplugging your computer for 30 minutes, then drive carefully onto a highway and do some WOT pulls in 3rd gear. If it goes higher for 1 or 2 pulls, then drops down to where you're at now, you're in long-term knock retard.
yea i did just reset the computer and this did not fix the problem..... should i give it one more shot?! Also any other suggestions as to what the problem is?! Everyone check my vacuum set up and see if something in there is not done properly...
I forgot to add that my green line coming off the turbo is capped.... does this line serve any purpose?
my car went bad liket this a year ago and its still screwed.
My car lost its zip about a year back. Something is pulling timing at low rpms and its affecting the way the turbo spools and its affecting the turbo at the top end. THats why you cant run full boost to redline anymore. Im waiting for the AEM system to come out. Hopefully it can be tuned away. Go get on a dyno and look at your timing at low rpms. I bet ya its screwed, causing the car to go lean at the end of the run. Ive replaced everything with no luck. PM me and well talk more.
Greddy Profec E-01 (Set: 65-- Gain: 25-- Start: 15.0)
Greddy Oil Catch Can
Greddy Type-S BOV w/ ATP pressure pipe
Greddy TT
Perrin FMIC
AEM CAI
AGP BOP
Autometer 30psi Guage
3" Custom exhaust w/ Apex-i N1 Turbo Muffler
I NEED SOME HELP FROM THE BEST OF THE BEST!!! Today i ran the car at the track front tires at 26psi and i was doin 60' times around 2.0 and 2.1 BUT i could only trap 97 and 98 mph.... my times were 14.1-14.2 and as i watched my boost it was doin this:
1st gear: 13 psi
2nd gear: 15 fade to 13 psi
3rd gear: 15 fade to 13 psi
4th gear: 16 fade to 14 psi
Just over a week ago i was seeing 18psi fade to 16psi in 3rd gear.... i know there is a leak but please help me if anyone could provide an extremely IN DEPTH vacuum layout for my car..... i can explain what i have right now.....
SOLENOIDS:
#1 ALL CAPPED
#3 ALL IN TACT
#2 ALL CAPPED
BOOST CONTROLLER
WGA ------ E-01 -------- Turbo
BOV
Red Line Capped.....
BOV T-ed into Intake Manifold
CATCH CAN
Passenger side PCV ------ CATCH CAN -------- Intake Manifold
INTAKE
PCV on Drivers Side has a Breather Filter
IM BEGGING FOR HELP GUYS SOMETHING HAS TO BE DONE WRONG EVEN THOUGH I USE THE FORUMS AND INSTRUCTIONS TO DO EVERYTHING!!!! PLEASE HELP ME[/quote]
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Forward Motion 3" turbo back exhaust,Centerforce DF clutch, Apexi Turbo Timer, AMS MBC, Custom pressure pipe,Turbo XS Blowoff valve, Auto meter C2 Boost, oil and air fuel Ratio gauges, Eibach Springs. Mopar Stage 1 upgrade.18x7.5 rims and yokohama tires, AGP adjustable wastegate,Mopar short throw shifter ,booger booshings.Magnacore sparkplug wires. Momo Carbon fiber steering wheel, momo c.f. shift knob. AFCII AMS tuned.
You can reset your ecu and rework your vacuum lines all day. Your just going to mask the problem. I met with the chrysler rep and they denied anything was wrong. I checked voltage at knock and all was good. I have not checked voltage at the O2 sensors which are bothe sensors that will NOT throw a code if bad.
there is definetley a leak. b4 18psi->16 =13.9 now 16->13 =14.x fix that first. the cc leaks, the pcv leaks, check those. then your timing is off, solution map clamp. these are basics so please inform yourself
Could this be a difference between cold temp races and warm-humid races? Also, you are going to have to make a leak tester. Eliminate the possibility of leaks, then move on. $.02
Kevin
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Stage 3 w/toys, HKS SSQV, Prothane MM Inserts, MaxxFab 3" no cat single tip ex, IPP CO's, CTI FMIC w/crash bar, CTI hard pipes, CTI stg3 O2, JMB catch can, Mopar STS w/boogs, Mopar clutch, 180 therm, Iceman Intake, Lorenzo TB w/ 60mm adapter, Rage CNC ported intake, M&H 8.5/24.5/15 Slicks, Denso Iridiums, GRXGarage grounding kit
Also sportin' the no GF/Wife mod. Makes upgades easier and more enjoyable!
Lets assume the loss of power is greater than that which occurs with heat. He seems like hes done all the basics and is still left with the issue.
Quote: Originally Posted by Makadoo
Could this be a difference between cold temp races and warm-humid races? Also, you are going to have to make a leak tester. Eliminate the possibility of leaks, then move on. $.02
there is definetley a leak. b4 18psi->16 =13.9 now 16->13 =14.x fix that first. the cc leaks, the pcv leaks, check those. then your timing is off, solution map clamp. these are basics so please inform yourself
timing greatly affects onset of boost as well as boost at top end. Boost leaks dont usually pull timing..
then your timing is off, solution map clamp. these are basics so please inform yourself
jesus, that's the worst advice I've seen all day. If it's timing, it's for a very good reason, and a map clamp is NOT the solution.
Find the problem, fix the problem, THEN if for some reason you want to use a map clamp, go ahead. But don't band-aid problems with new parts, or soon your car will demise.
my car started doing this last night. 1st thought was a boost leak. 2nd thought i was turning my adjustable wga the wrong way. it is nearly closed & confirmed to be correct.
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Quote: Originally Posted by kevin in okinawa
the one good thing about this thread: i now have a new bitch quote to put at the bottom of my sig!!
I will never again do business with RNR Racing..... Ask me why
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