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Old 03-04-2005, 06:28 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Umm... there is a black rubber bump stop guys. Maybe thats why the wire doesn't even get touched hardly.
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:06 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 01CBR929
Umm... there is a black rubber bump stop guys. Maybe thats why the wire doesn't even get touched hardly.

Oh really! Doesn't even get touched hardly?

I didn't see you in MY car, looking at how it doesn't even get touched hardly.

Come on over and stick your little finger in the area the wire was in while I slam the clutch pedal in!

I bet it doesn't even get touched hardly.
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:10 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Why don't you just remove clutch pedal assembly and grind a slot to clear the harness..It doens't need much and is relatively easy to remove.
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:13 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Probably because it takes more time to lay down there and get out, than to actually unhook the switch and zip tie the wire out of the way.
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:25 PM   #80 (permalink)
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You'll see that there isn't much room to move that harness to clear. As far as time goes, do you have something more important to do on your weekends?
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Old 03-04-2005, 08:59 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Super Steve
You'll see that there isn't much room to move that harness to clear. As far as time goes, do you have something more important to do on your weekends?

Let's see... Take my Jeep out for it's first run in 8 years since I rebuilt it. Play with the ride hight on my NEX coilovers, Oh... the F1 Austrailian GP and Busch race in Mexico City on a road course is on. Plus I just moved with 15,000lbs of stuff in boxes that I'll just let the wife unpack...She won't mind.
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:31 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Looked at mine, and when the clutch pedal is fully depressed..i have about 1-2mm of clearance still..doesnt look like i need to move mine because i dont have a dent on the wires...weird i know. But hey..maybe they did mine right!!!
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Old 03-12-2005, 03:22 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by InrkldNturboSpld
Looked at mine, and when the clutch pedal is fully depressed..i have about 1-2mm of clearance still..doesnt look like i need to move mine because i dont have a dent on the wires...weird i know. But hey..maybe they did mine right!!!

Same with my "04, I just checked! I was looking down there because my shifting has become really nothcy since I Had the CM s4 clutch installed, I re-adjusted the clutch pedal all the way up but I did not change the wire loom position as it was not the problem, I have not test driven it yet, if the adjustment does not fix it I'll try to bleed the slave cylinder, if that does not work I'll have a shop change the TO bearing and slave cylinder. The clutch itself feels great and I have confidence in Clutchmaters so I doubt that is the problem.
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:04 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
On the issue of the brake light switch....

I can't check my car right now (it's dark out). but if its anything like my first gen neon, the brake light switch is just a square plastic piece with a button on it that is positioned behind the brake pedel, and when the pedel is depressed, it pushes in the button and lights up the bakes. I assume this is the same on the SRT. If so, maybe when they say, don't reinstall it, they mean don't take out the actual piece that the switch plugs into. follow me? if you were to take out the piece that's physically connected to the firewall/floorboard or bottom of the dash, then it would need to be readjusted perfectly in order for your brake lights to light up correctly. I think if you just unplugged the brake switch, and pluged it back in without moving the piece that's actually mounted to the bottom of the dash/firewall (whichever it is), you should be perfectly fine.
i'll have to look at it tomorrow when it's light out. but i think what i'm saying makes sense?

I disconnected the wire from the brake sensor (the one that says don't reinstall) to reroute it and removed the sensor from the bracket.. Now the car sometimes thinks the brake is still being pressed even though the car is off (have to press the brake pedal to get it to stop)..

Guess when it says, don't reinstall - it means it..

If you remove that white sensor from it's bracket, you gotta buy a new one.. Dunno how expensive it is.
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:40 PM   #85 (permalink)
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just looked at my 05' built 3/05 and wire still there but they put a plastic clip that surronds the harness and clutch pedal arm hits that instead,freakin' brillant huh?
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:59 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Old 08-10-2005, 04:40 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I took the brake switch out in my 04 and it still works fine...brake lights not coming on when they arent supposed to.
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Old 08-12-2005, 01:59 PM   #88 (permalink)
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the part that gets squished, its on like a flexible wall, so whenever it does get hit, it moves with it, its not a hard wall or anything
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Old 12-27-2005, 04:31 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Talk about bringing the thread back from the dead... Well... I just unclipped the white brake switch and relocated my wires in front of my clutch. I would say shifting is about 85% better now! I can't believe that something this minor could help out so much! I know that it's not all just in my head either cause the temp around here has been below freezing... and we all know how well SRT-4's shift in the cold! Anyhoo... I have noticed absolutely no notchy gears and hardly any lockout on downshifts since doing this little "mod/fix". I guess this will remind those people who are putting this off till later that they need to get out and fix this... maybe remedy some clutch/tranny problems for them too.
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Old 12-30-2005, 03:46 AM   #90 (permalink)
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WOW. I can't believe this is the first time I have read this thread after having my car and participating on these forums so long. Well, for an update I have an '04 and I had the same problem, and what I did was do a 1/4 counterclockwise turn on the white brake light switch and move the wires in front of the clutch pedal arm and then re-insert the brake light switch. I have no problems no cels thrown= brake lights work fine. Just don't push and play with the black button on the switch and everything should be fine.

The way I see it is by taking out the whole switch assembly is no different than when you push the damn brake pedal; the distance the little black button travels is no different than when pushing on the pedal; here your just releasing the brake button tension by pulling the switch assembly away from the pedal instead of pushing the pedal away from the assembly. I hope this helps some people worried about messing up their switch. I'm sure if you do mess it up, the thing is inexpensive anyways, but I had no problems.

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