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Old 01-12-2005, 08:57 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Just for the record, I just performed a boost leak check with my Forge BOV installed. I anticipated having to reroute some vac lines, from what I've heard of checks run with the Mopar plate.

To my surprise, except for plugging the one line that runs into the intake pipe, it worked fine. Just slap it on, plug that one line, and she held boost just fine.
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:52 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Default Help! Another Puzzling Leak!

Last Thursday, car was boosting 18.5 psi max, and dropping to 16 psi at redline. I was running around town, and boost suddenly dropped off to 14 psi max and 12 psi at redline in every gear.

Note: I'm running S1 with AGP WGA, teed into blue line, with a bleed hole. Also have ED 3" downpipe, Summit cutout, NGK plugs gapped at .040, Crane wires, CTI intake.

Did a few visual inspections -- everything looked tight. Lifted heat shield and checked on WGA arm -- looks straight and OK. Reset the PCM -- no change. Pulled off the stock surge valve (ugh!), and it looked fine, so I put it back on.

Built the leak tester suggested by pap, using parts list from glhs837. Tried the leak tester today, and... only hissing I heard was from my bleed hole. Plugged that with my finger, and heard no hissing at all.

Guess I will try again and make sure I get the boost level up high enough, but I was surprised not to hear a leak somewhere.

I'm starting to wonder if the internals for my AGP WGA are fuxored (saw blusrt-4's post). I've been running 17-19 psi for quite some time... with no boost controller. Dumb, I know.

Any other bright ideas?

BTW -- thanks to Nivo, pap, glhs837, bluesrt-4, and others. Ideas posted here are at least helping narrow it down.
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:58 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by SRT4Real
Last Thursday, car was boosting 18.5 psi max, and dropping to 16 psi at redline. I was running around town, and boost suddenly dropped off to 14 psi max and 12 psi at redline in every gear.


Any other bright ideas?

Well, seeing as how your in Tampa I highly doubt you FLA guys got a cold spell but sometimes the PCM will hold back boost in certain temps and conditions. I thought I had a boost leak on mine until temps went back to normal from the freeze we were having here in AL.

(I know you northeastern guys are probably laughing when you see someone from the south say "freeze" lol, especially after the blizzard 3ft+ of snow you all just got !!)
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:05 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by haknslash
Well, seeing as how your in Tampa I highly doubt you FLA guys got a cold spell but sometimes the PCM will hold back boost in certain temps and conditions. I thought I had a boost leak on mine until temps went back to normal from the freeze we were having here in AL.

(I know you northeastern guys are probably laughing when you see someone from the south say "freeze" lol, especially after the blizzard 3ft+ of snow you all just got !!)

Good guess. It has been colder, but it was already cold that day when boost dropped. Actually, my car boosts a little higher when air is colder, assuming PCM does not have control (using green or blue line on WGA). So, that's not it...
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:19 PM   #65 (permalink)
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im still boostin the same hmmm crazy
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Old 01-27-2005, 01:11 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Default Eureka! I found it!

Found that damn boost leak last night! Pushed more air through the leak tester than last time. Sure enough, the leak only occurs once the boost gauge hits 14 psi or higher, then you can hear it start leaking like a sieve.

Turns out my WGA crapped out, similar to bluesrt-4's problem. You can feel the air pouring out around the WGA arm once the system is pressurized.

Do you think DCX will cover my AGP WGA under warranty?

Looks like I need to buy a new WGA and a boost controller this time. Guess I overstressed the WGA by running it at 18-19 psi for a long time with no boost controller. Doh!

Thanks again to folks on this thread who got me pointed in the right direction!
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Old 01-28-2005, 03:02 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I did not read all the postings due to me being under the weather i dont feel like it. Heres my problem. 2004 SRT-4 stage 2 up grade. I usually boost about 16-18 psi on 2 and 3 switch mode. Here lately ive been boosting 11-13 on 2 and 3 switch mode. The only time it will hit 13 is when im in 4th gear and im nearly tached out. On switch mode 1 i usually hit 10-12 psi. now im hitting 6-8 and on 0 im hitting 2-3 psi. Im taking it to the shop monday, any ideas on a self fix before i go through all that. Thanks
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:28 PM   #68 (permalink)
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would a boost leak account for over-boosting?
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Old 01-30-2005, 08:02 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by h4z3x
would a boost leak account for over-boosting?

if you're reading the boost gauge, and it reads high, then no - a typical boost leak would not result in that. I believe the exception is the wastegate line, which when leaking can cause overboost. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 01-31-2005, 04:07 PM   #70 (permalink)
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ok, that would make sense. My boost with stock wga seems typical from what I've read, 14-15 psi fading to 10-11. It isn't until I put on the AGP WGA, that I get over boosting. I think the stiffer spring might be forcing a leak, where as the stock wga is light enough to work anyway leak or no leak. I'm I on the right track with this? With the AGP I tighten it just enough to take up the slack and can't get any less than 17 psi, and it seems that others have to keep cranking it up or pair with a BC to get up to 17. Any thoughts on this. - Thanks
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:11 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by h4z3x
ok, that would make sense. My boost with stock wga seems typical from what I've read, 14-15 psi fading to 10-11. It isn't until I put on the AGP WGA, that I get over boosting. I think the stiffer spring might be forcing a leak, where as the stock wga is light enough to work anyway leak or no leak. I'm I on the right track with this? With the AGP I tighten it just enough to take up the slack and can't get any less than 17 psi, and it seems that others have to keep cranking it up or pair with a BC to get up to 17. Any thoughts on this. - Thanks

I think your overboost condition is not related to a leak at all, but rather to the AGP wastegate spring. I've read threads other than this where people had difficulty getting boost under control with an aftermarket WGA. I'd look up some of the threads which talk about the different line configurations, as I believe some people have had better luck using an alternate line on the wastegate actuator, rather than the stock line. Good luck!
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:28 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Ok, just got back in from messing with most of the night. It would seem that the mopar bov conversion is leaking real bad, not on the gasket side against the turbo but on the side with the rubber diaphram thing.

I tried the leak test from post #3 (good stuff) and you could watch the stock wga push the flapper lever. But with the agp installed the system could never get up to enough pressure to push the agp wga spring due to the air rushing from the rice plate.

I'm gonna look into some aftermarket BOVs to go in place of the rice plate. I'll post back when i get something situated. - Thanks

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Old 02-02-2005, 01:47 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Default Weak boost

I own a 05' srt and had only 1000 miles on it when I notice that it will not hold more than 11 psi of boost in any gear. It started when I installed the Mopar BOV, where before I was running 14-15psi. I am going to take it out to see if this helps
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Old 02-02-2005, 02:54 PM   #74 (permalink)
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I have found my boost leak, and it was the turbo outlet hose. It was so loose that I had to tighten it 3 turns. Also, I tightened the bolts to the Mopar BOV to 68lbs (recommended by Mopar). Thanks for the help! Now I am running 14-15 psi.
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Old 02-02-2005, 03:42 PM   #75 (permalink)
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I don't know if any of you guys have ever had engine knock, but when it happens, the computer pulls the timing and your car won't boost past about 10psi. I've experienced this with some overboost problems and just resetting the computer works fine. You need to leave the negative cable off for about 30 sec to a min to reset though. At least in my experience. Don't know if this helps or not. Yes the overboost problem has been addressed, I don't just reset the ECU everytime the car knocks.

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