I have a 05 I also did a boost leak test, found I had a leak around the hotside pipe on the IC I tightened that clamp fixed that leak. Did the test again now the waste gate opens around 14 psi and sounds like my air than leaks out of the BOV. I have a stage 2 WG & Mopar BOV is my WG bad or is this normal do to being a stage 2 WG
I have got a boost leak that starts at 14psi. I can hear it with pressure checker around the throttle body or lower area. I replaced my RFL and the leak is still there. My boost falls off to 14psi no matter what. and boost is slow to come on. I nor the shop i was at can find it. They blew it off as air passing in the throttle body. I cant put my ear on it. Ive tried soapy water and a stethascope. I hear it but cant find it. ANy ideas.???? CAn i check boost with throttle open? Thats the only way the leak stopped.
The throttle bodies do leak psi but there is really nothing you can do about it......it leaks through the throttle linkage coming out the side of it but while the engine is running the motor pressurizes itself and that leak is no longer a problem
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4 wheels move the body......2 wheels move the soul!
Okay, a couple of things. The TB will leak, but never enough to stop you from building pressure, unless your using a tire inflator. The sounds can be decieving, so what appears to be the TB could be the coldside pipe.
The WGA will "open" but it should not let pressure bleed unless its internal diaphram is torn, which is possible. More likely is that the air you hear is coming from the turbo outlet, not the WGA.
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I used to own one of the first SRT-4s sold, bought it new in Feb 2003, sold it Nov 2006 with 75K and Stage 3. Now I drive a 2006 SRT-8 Charger.
my buddy and i built our own boost leak checker deally and the unit itself works great. the problem seems to be the cars. we tried it on mine and his and found the same leaks on both of our cars. the outlet side of the valve cover bled air off like a biatch on mine and his, and then the line coming from the "venturi" system from the NVLD emissions box...the spot where it connects into the stock airbox, that leaked air too....and those are both from the factory.....so WTF?
we plugged the valve cover and then plugged the NVLD and then we were able to build and hold pressure no problem. if these lines are leaking when we check them, then that means they are leaking when the car runs too, right? so could soemone please help me understand why the car was designed WITH boost leaks?
any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
once we had tried several configurations for testing, we found this setup to work the best: remove lower line from airbox to NVLD system and plug, remove line from valve cover outlet near intake and plug, pressurize.
no other configuration worked for us. anybody else?
BTW, the leak tester we made is alot nicer than some of the ones i see other people use. most of the ones i see here and on other sites have the valve mounted directly to the adapter, which makes it hard to get to when its installed. we ran a secondary hose out from the adapter and then put the valve in the end of that line, so its alot easier to get to. if someone on here can host a pic for me, i will show you. it was alot easier than the original way we tried.
the TB, cold side, and under car clamps were not even finger tight when I checked them today. The hot side clam only needed about 1/4 turn on a ratchet to be tight (what is the best way to access that bastard?) and I couldn't get to the clamp on the back of the turbo with the time I had today. Haven't had a chance to go out and run it yet, but I can't even imagine how much air was being let out of those three clamps.
I built a leak tester and used it on my car and my buddies car. He gained 2 psi on his basically stock car after finding / fixing all his boost leaks. I on the other hand LOST psi on my car and can't boost past 13 psi with all my mods. I tightened down every clamp on my car and even replaced all of them with T-bolt clamps...except for the one at the back of the turbo I left the stock clamp there but tightened it down like a gorilla. Any suggestions?!?
Offset?!? I don't understand...I did loosen the back side of it and the 2 13mm nuts and pushed it closer to the turbo if thats what your talking about. Then I tightened it back down.
First, are you still hearing any hissing from that area?
Didn't do another leak test yet....Didn't have time. But I still can't boost past 13psi. And ever since I did my leak test the first time and started fixing leaks I've been dropping psi.
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