Dodge SRT Forum banner

Axle issues

19K views 34 replies 9 participants last post by  neonsrt15 
#1 ·
I have an 2003 dodge srt4 and my passenger side axle keeps breaking ive went through 6 axles and it seems like the axle is too short and pulls the halfshaft out of the inner boot closest to the input shaft the boot also dimples in when I put the castle nut on the axle and torque it down I didn't even have the car in gear and rolled it out of my garage and it twisted the boot then the axle broke when I proceeded to put it in first gear and drive around the motor mounts look pretty good the axles ive gotten were from autozone, advance, and the most current one is from o'reillys any help would be great the input shaft will spin freely with axle attached so I don't believe its a bad input shaft im fairly new to the srt 4 scene so don't be to harsh on me. Any help would be greatly appreciated can post pics of my motor mount that looks bad and what the inner boot closest to input shaft looks like when its installed if needed be.
 
#3 ·
X100 on oem axles. I went thru 8 sets of part store axles, ordered the oem axles from Modernperformance along with a energy bushing master kit & no problem since (been 2 years now). The aftermarket seems to have made all of their axles a tad too short. Every part store axle I installed had major slop & would jiggle, make noise & finally disintegrate in a matter of weeks.
I know the initial price of oem seems high but it's pocket change compared to time spent swaping parts constantly.
I also see ppl having bad luck with dss & gator axles so stick with mopar


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#5 ·
I just need an axle for right now I'm saving for mopar axles but don't have the cash right now and how could I tell If the motor is sagging or the suspension components are worn which part of the suspension should I check first and here is pics of my motor mount and a pic of what the axle looks like when tightened down
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Strange. I have GSP (Advance) axles and have no issues. There is a little vibration when I floor the throttle at low speed and I think that is due to me being lowered as the angle seems a little much to me. Anyways I still had the vibration issues with my DSS axles so it is not the GSP ones.

With both sets of axles the passenger side did not need the knuckle removed from the LCA like the passenger side did. For the pass side you need to make sure that the axle is fully seated on the intermediate shaft or else it will fall off when taking a tight turn. There is a clip that holds the axle on the I shaft and it usually takes a sharp tap from a hammer to unseat it.

Those boot dimples in your pic above are ok as long as the axle isn't fubar (broken). It is possible for the tripot joint to slip out and it should go back right in with very light pressure and maybe a little twisting. Once you get the joint reseated those dimples will go away when the boot compresses..

I dunno just spitballing here. Maybe I got a good set of axles, or maybe you got a bad one (or 6). Or maybe there is something wrong with the car. Maybe there is something wrong with the install process.

I can see one or two, but 6? I wonder if it isn't the axles.
 
#8 ·
I was told to try an O'Reilly axle part number MI8111 and I take the 2 bolts from the strut assembly after I take the axle nut off and then pull the axle and then pull the rotor assembly straight out and pop the splines off the input shaft then reverse the process to install axle I also don't have the washer for the axle but the previous axle that lasted didn't either and I got about 30k miles out of it which it was from autozone and in order to get the dimple out of the boot I have to take the axle nut off and push the shaft back in and when it doesn't dimple in the boot the inner boot (same boot that dimples) twists and then breaks everytime
 
#12 · (Edited)
I also don't have the washer for the axle
SORRY but are you kidding me and your wondering why your eating axles...
That washer is like 3/16" thick and once you get it torqued properly plus any time you turn & go over a bump your yanking that axle right out of the trans.

OF course this is why your eating axles.
I'm sorry if I'm calling you out but when ppl don't know what they are doing the truth sometimes hurts.

side note: it is easiest to remove the tie rod end when installing the new axles. Its fast and makes the install very very easy. Also make sure you have the spring washer that goes on after the axle nut under the cotter pin cap. Not necessary, but lets do it right the 1st time since you have it apart....

Also the input shaft as you call it is actually called the intermediate shaft. The input shaft is what interfaces with the clutch and makes the trans turn. Not trying to be a D, just passing a little knowledge.
or street term as Atrop pointed out 1/2 shaft since its half of the axle assembly

I bet your motor is sagging. You probably need the 4th mount fixed.
:wink:
 
#9 · (Edited)
Is it the axle that is breaking or the boot? I think it is possible that the tripod will can come fully unseated and appear broken when it just need to be re inserted into the socket.

Either way Mopar axles should do you fine I guess. I don't have any personal experience with them personally so I can't say 100%.

I got the GSP (Advance Auto) axles because I suspected that my DSS axles were worn out in the joints causing excess vibrations. I went cheap to see if that was the problem. Turns out it wasn't so I haven't swapped them back yet and probably won't until I have major issues with the GSP ones. I put about 1k miles on mine last week and they seemed ok. Keep in mind that I am maybe 300/300 (hp/tq) at this moment and don't do hard launches, burnouts, and have not had any wheelspin issues. I have done many lock to lock turning maneuvers and all seems well so far.

I'd have to agree with the others that the pass side seems a little short, but I was able to get all the dimples out by moving the shaft inwards and outwards and giving the boots a little massage.

As for removal and replacing I don't remove the two strut bolts. What I do is remove the pinch bolt from the ball joint. Unseat the joint from the knuckle and that should give you enough play to remove and replace the axle. The hardest part is getting the knuckle back on the ball joint stud. I usually put a jack under the rotor and slowly jack it up until the knuckle is above the stud and move the jack so that they line up and mate. It is a little harder this way, but saves your alignment if it is dependant on those two strut to knuckle bolts (common with aftermarket struts with adjustment slots.) Also removing the front swaybar to knuckle bolts will give you more wiggle room when you need to move the LCA up and down. This is the book method. Grab a copy from my signature line and read section 3. It contains all you need to know about the half-shafts and such.

Also the input shaft as you call it is actually called the intermediate shaft. The input shaft is what interfaces with the clutch and makes the trans turn. Not trying to be a D, just passing a little knowledge.
 
#11 ·
The tripod comes out of the housing and then the boot twist and when I go to drive it the tripod part closest to the intermediate shaft comes out and the inner boot twists and breaks but the axle doesn't really break like you were saying the tripod just comes out of its place, also where is the 4th motor mount located (sorry just got the car not really up to date on them yet) also thanks for correcting me so I don't sound like an idiot it's greatly appreciated
 
#14 ·
it drive fine without the washer
No it doesn't you keep breaking axles....
your new to the forums, the mounts was calling you out more politely than I did.

I doubt you have a mount issue. My money is still on the washer issue.

good luck do it right and you should not have an issue. The guys breaking the big box store axles are usually running the car hard and more HP than stock.
If you drive normal, hard to do with these cars even stock, you should be ok.

Don't know if you have the link but DL the FSM (factory service manual) along with all the "how-to's" this will help a lot!!

Here is a pic if you weren't sure on what you needed PLUS the order they go on, Right hand side is first working out to the left:




Here is the spring washer I mentioned make sure you have this as well. Not as important as the axle washer but might as well do it right:

 
#16 · (Edited)
I"m still saying it's to short and pulling out.
I did some research for you and the results are what I fear and has happened to me in the past.
Big box stores don't differentiate between Neon SXT SRT & RT properly at times. SO since the SRT uses the T850 trans and the other family of neon uses the T350 I'm betting you money it's not for an SRT and is to short.

The phsyics, syptoms and all the problems your still having all point to it being to short and not the proper axle.
Possibly call the dealer and see if they have one in stock at least you could bring yours there to compare the lengths.

I'm trying to find the over all dimension of length on this but not having much luck.
The path I put you on is correct the steps to get it fixed may take some more investigating on your part

I only have a spare drvrs side axle no pass side otherwise I"d measure it and post it....

FOUND THIS: not sure how accurate as these are OEM or aftermarket you may have to dig depper but says OEM axle length is 20 11/16 inches

 
#17 ·
#18 ·
I'm going to compare the axle with one from the dealership is there a number to look for on the axle itself to identify that it is for an srt 4? All the axles I've gotten have different numbers on them I measured it and it's fairly close to what the chart says it should be I'll keep you updated on the results from the dealership thanks for all the help
 
#21 ·
huh....Why would you think that?
Even with stock MM and if the bushings in the MM where torn it wouldn't pull the axle out.
Where are you getting all this mis information?

I think I've helped all I can. Sorry man good luck, I'll still watch to see where this goes if you continue to update this thread.
 
#23 ·
Lesson learned I guess. Generally its "mopar or no par(t)" for my vehicle. I've always had issues with non mopar stuff. Ie rebuilt calipers (lasted maybe 10 000 miles rubber seals gone on Pistons plus I had to paint them) aftermarket sensors not working well with the car (apparently a cam position sensor magnet is not just a magnet)

6 axles later you've exceeded the cost of a good stock axle not to mention ripping the car apart so many times. I replaced mine as a precautionary measure, they were fine but went with new oems when I upgraded to bw stage 3.

Aftermarket parts are fine for your DD 1999 4 door civic, even then they're alright. Sometimes saving 20% ends up costing you 200% down the line in terms of longevity and quality.
 
#24 ·
So you think it's the axle and not a mm issue? I was told if a mm was torn it could cause the engine to move in return break axles I'll take this axle back and get my money back and buy from the dealership and see if that fixes my issue or does anyone know where to buy an oem axle besides the dealership?
 
#27 ·
So I recently discover that the passenger side of the sway bar is missing the clip that bolts it to the frame of the car would this cause the axle issue? I'll have it fixed by the end of the week just was curious if something so simple could cause the problem.
 
#30 ·
Damn this has to be a joke !!!

this has been going on for weeks, if the OP'er is that clueless and refuses to take the advice of several that have had these cars for many many years.
1) its a joke
2) he shouldn't be driving a car that is modified ( find a Corolla )
3) think before you post. Why would a sway bar that is just a suspension enhancer (eliminate body roll) effect your axle.

This is some funny shit and also why this forum is dying a slow death. Again many have given you what to do, stop guessing, hire someone to fix it and just drive it till it breaks again which it will.

Can't wait till you start the "My trans pops out of 3rd gear thread" that one will go on for a year. What do I do, what could it be....
Yes this is flaming you but at this point you/he deserves it :stab:
 
#31 ·
Some people take out the sway bars completely, not the issue. Motor mounts will break axles only from having wheel hop, not the issue (I don't even have a top mount and drove it a few times, yes shouldn't but if something's breaks I'll fix it). You said it measures close so should be fine. Measurements are an exact science, there's no close, it's either correct or not...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top