when is the next session i thought i seen a thread saying it was gonna be 12/21
also when putting supporting mods (3"o2 and needswings, 55mm tb, and bigger intercooler) on top of Stage 3R, when is it a good time to start monitoring a/f ratios with a wideband, or is it a good idea to do it with a barebone Stage Three kit?
Last edited by slcsilversrt-4 : 12-22-2005 at 04:07 PM.
I do have a question though. In the last Q/A you guys stated that a catch can should not be used on our vehicles. What should we do to prevent the excessive blow by from getting into our IC's?
When I brought the car into my dealer at 10,xxx miles they stated to maintain my warranty I would need to have the IC tubes cleaned every 12,000 miles to prevent a potential damage of the IC, the TB and the IAC sensor.
I don't have a problem with paying for proper maintanence, but was there perhaps a design flaw in allowing so much blowby?
Ask your dealer where is the "flushing of the IC tubes" listed in the scheduled maintenance book that comes with the car? My car now has 975 miles on it and I reached under today and put my hand on the cold air tube where it connects to IC and got a little bit of oil on my finger. Funny, when I talk to guys who own hopped up Buick Grand Nationals they don't get blow by unless the engine has excessive wear?? For me, I don't understand it but I know its time for a catch can, which I don't mind, but now when I take it in for warrantee work, what do I have to do, take it off so I don't get hassled for working around a problem they have no clue on how to deal with and will not assist in correcting??
Here's a question that's prolly been asked before, but just like opinions everyone has their own answer. What is the proper way to warm up a vehicle (summer or winter)? I used to let my SRT-10 set for 10 minutes or so and idle until the oil temp was about 160, but have since read that this may do more harm than good. Now the consensus tends to indicate that one should only let their vehicle idle for 30-60 seconds, and then drive it "easily" until fully warmed up. I'd really like to know what the peeps who designed our cars/trucks have to say about this one....
Thanks,
D
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BigDally '04 Flame Red SRT-10
#2141 out of 3057
Built 5/19/2004
I just read through some of these qustions, i think some people forget you are asking engineer's, lost of this can be answerd by a few of the members. i would like to know
How is a missfire detcted? crankshaft accrelation or knock?
What is the % missfire count before the check engine light comes on?
What is the knock voltage for a stock engine at wot, 100%load?
Just a heart-felt thank you for making such a fun little car. I've owned all types, sports cars, sport-sedans, and the SRT-4 is by far my favorite. Coolest go-kart ever made IMHO.
I have a question. Can the SRT guys possibly explain why it seems a large number of people are getting oil residue buildup on the inside of the pipe that connects the turbo inlet to the air filter box, ONLY at the end that connects to the turbo inlet? I started a thread about this a while back and a lot of people noticed this, as well, most noted that all signs pointing to this oil coming FROM THE TURBO, not from the oil that accumilates in the make up filter in the air filter box.
In my case, I have no oil residue in the filter box, nor any sign of oil passing thru the stock paper air filter. Also, I see NO sign of oil on the side of the pipe that connects to the filter box.
I noticed this oil residue within days of getting my car, before I had done ANY mods, and it has only seemed to get worse over time.
Again, a lot of other people do notice this as well.... best we can guess is it's a leaky turbo seal/bearing... but man... for SO MANY guys to have this happen, what gives?
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2007 Mazdaspeed 3 GT, red. Only mods: MS CAI, Cobb AccessPORT Stage 1+ MS CAI map v102 (MSF custom map), and a scraped up rear bumper, 250 whp/281 ft lbs BEFORE the AccessPORT tune.
SRT-4 interiors are teh slow , but man I do miss my Neon!
I have a question. Can the SRT guys possibly explain why it seems a large number of people are getting oil residue buildup on the inside of the pipe that connects the turbo inlet to the air filter box, ONLY at the end that connects to the turbo inlet? I started a thread about this a while back and a lot of people noticed this, as well, most noted that all signs pointing to this oil coming FROM THE TURBO, not from the oil that accumilates in the make up filter in the air filter box.
In my case, I have no oil residue in the filter box, nor any sign of oil passing thru the stock paper air filter. Also, I see NO sign of oil on the side of the pipe that connects to the filter box.
I noticed this oil residue within days of getting my car, before I had done ANY mods, and it has only seemed to get worse over time.
Again, a lot of other people do notice this as well.... best we can guess is it's a leaky turbo seal/bearing... but man... for SO MANY guys to have this happen, what gives?
I would have to say this is fron the crankcase ventalation, unser boost the intake has alot of vaccume/airflow in it, at the same time the blow by is higher due to boost in the engine. put these together and you are pulling the oil in to the turbo inlet, a bad turbo seal means a chargded air system with oil all the way through. in extream cases you would see it in the exhaust. i have noticed oil residue on the vent holes of my bov (forge).
to check for a bad turbo seal i would pull off the charge ling off the turbo and chech for oil in the turbo housing. or oil leaking at the pipe clamps of the intercooler system.
If you are sucking a bit of oil from the pcv system the turbo has enugh air flow to keep it clean.
I would have to say this is fron the crankcase ventalation, unser boost the intake has alot of vaccume/airflow in it, at the same time the blow by is higher due to boost in the engine. put these together and you are pulling the oil in to the turbo inlet, a bad turbo seal means a chargded air system with oil all the way through. in extream cases you would see it in the exhaust. i have noticed oil residue on the vent holes of my bov (forge).
to check for a bad turbo seal i would pull off the charge ling off the turbo and chech for oil in the turbo housing. or oil leaking at the pipe clamps of the intercooler system.
If you are sucking a bit of oil from the pcv system the turbo has enugh air flow to keep it clean.
no it's definately NOT from anything to do with the PCV system, it's coming from the turbo itself.
Actually I had an interesting conversation with Dale Seeley, he's one of the more knowledgeable guys on the SRT-4, kinda one of the local experts I guess? Anyways he says that the turbo DOES seep some oil when it cools down, the different parts of the turbo cool and contract at different rates and some oil seeps out. Still kinda baffles me since my other turbo car never does this, but whatever. It's a really common problem and if you look closely at it it doesn't make sense to be coming from anything related to the PCV system, and Dale did say that yes for sure it is coming from the Turbo. I'd still like one of the SRT guys' official take on this though Dale's explanation does make sense.
Ok, i got mixed up, i thought you were saying that the inlet pipe had oil in it from air box to turbo, my bad. then yes what you said could be very well the problem
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Question for SRT Engineers
Linear Mode
