ugh... still wiring... i'm installing a Wot box at the same time as I'm installing this and I'm slow as poop.
After I finish wiring i'll write some test code and take it out for a spin...
I sorry phroze-zone. I know it's tough to be the super at night and to be a normal human being during the day. </the incredibles>
but seriously, sorry for bugging ya. I just happen to like your products and they do work really well on my car. Im just really anxious to get another one of your product on my car.
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Quote: Originally Posted by DODGETWEAKER
Boost is like crack and I am your dealer. Come here lil' junkie and take your medicine.
Dodgetweaker is a part of the SRT Engineering team
I sorry phroze-zone. I know it's tough to be the super at night and to be a normal human being during the day. </the incredibles>
but seriously, sorry for bugging ya. I just happen to like your products and they do work really well on my car. Im just really anxious to get another one of your product on my car.
Haha. No problem. I'm excited to finally have all 3 products on my car.
The speed sensor is wired up and getting a good signal. Now I just need to write the code to make it all work. Should be easy from here...
Actually, the only trick left is figuring out how to logically organize the user interaction so that it doesn't drive anyone crazy. There are going to be a lot of features that can be set, so how can I make it easy to set them?
We've got 1 button, 1 LED (that I can't control) and 1 LED display.
So, there might be some kind of menu system where you hold it for 10 seconds to access the menu... the LED display starts flashing to indicate programming mode... You cycle to through the menu items by clicking the button: 0 -> 1 -> 2 -> 3 -> etc... Once you reach the option you want to change, you hold the button... then it gives you the current value of that option, which you set by clicking the button... when you're done you hold the button again and it jumps back to the menu...
The menu options might be:
0: Speed Dependent DAB control (0: disable, 1: enable)
1: DAB 0--> 1 transition speed (10s of MPH)
2: DAB 0--> 1 transition speed (1s of MPH)
3: DAB 1--> 3 transition speed (10s of MPH)
4: DAB 1--> 3 transition speed (1s of MPH)
5: HOM Memory (0: Default OFF, 1: Default ON, 2: Default LAST)
I don't think there's any need for a transition from DAB 1->2, since I think 2 isn't any different than 3 once you get up to speed... But, correct me if I'm wrong and you think I should put it in.
There is a difference btwn DAB 2 and 3. 3 spools the turbo MUCH faster than DAB 2. I only use DAB 2 if I am doing some road course and I use DAB 3 if Im doing some drag or a real fast course. But what you are doing is just fine. Just as long you pre-set the speed program and Im happy as thit!
However, one question - you said about the speed sensor, are you using the OEM speed sensor or will that be an add on?? cuz I hope I'd be using the OEM speed sensor.....
Although there's one feature Im really looking forward to, add an HOM led on my HVAC bezel bc I cant always look down on the armrest to see if Im getting kicked out of HOM.
There is a difference btwn DAB 2 and 3. 3 spools the turbo MUCH faster than DAB 2. I only use DAB 2 if I am doing some road course and I use DAB 3 if Im doing some drag or a real fast course. But what you are doing is just fine. Just as long you pre-set the speed program and Im happy as thit!
However, one question - you said about the speed sensor, are you using the OEM speed sensor or will that be an add on?? cuz I hope I'd be using the OEM speed sensor.....
Although there's one feature Im really looking forward to, add an HOM led on my HVAC bezel bc I cant always look down on the armrest to see if Im getting kicked out of HOM.
Sounds good. I'll probably pre-program the speed settings to whatever works on my car, but you'll probably need to re-tune it to your driving style and car setup. I think I will probably default the speed dependent DAB to off. I'll leave it to the end user to turn it on.
It is using the standard vehicle speed sensor. It's just one more wire to tap into the wiring harness while you're there.
Actually, it's the same number of wires since we were able to eliminate one of the wire taps from the previous toybox version. So, it's still 6 wires.
I'm not actually sure if the extra HOM led feature is going to work. Some changes needed to be made. I'll see what I can do.
Really, I don't think you need an LED to know when you get kicked out of HOM. It's like hitting a wall when it happens. The car suddenly feels a LOT slower...
There is a difference btwn DAB 2 and 3. 3 spools the turbo MUCH faster than DAB 2. I only use DAB 2 if I am doing some road course and I use DAB 3 if Im doing some drag or a real fast course. But what you are doing is just fine. Just as long you pre-set the speed program and Im happy as thit!
However, one question - you said about the speed sensor, are you using the OEM speed sensor or will that be an add on?? cuz I hope I'd be using the OEM speed sensor.....
Although there's one feature Im really looking forward to, add an HOM led on my HVAC bezel bc I cant always look down on the armrest to see if Im getting kicked out of HOM.
Sounds good. I'll probably pre-program the speed settings to whatever works on my car, but you'll probably need to re-tune it to your driving style and car setup. I think I will probably default the speed dependent DAB to off. I'll leave it to the end user to turn it on.
It is using the standard vehicle speed sensor. It's just one more wire to tap into the wiring harness while you're there.
Actually, it's the same number of wires since we were able to eliminate one of the wire taps from the previous toybox version. So, it's still 6 wires.
I'm not actually sure if the extra HOM led feature is going to work. Some changes needed to be made. I'll see what I can do.
Really, I don't think you need an LED to know when you get kicked out of HOM. It's like hitting a wall when it happens. The car suddenly feels a LOT slower...
lol
I just like having pretty lights on my dash. Besides it makes the ladies go 'ooooh.. what's that light for'
I simply tell them 'when it goes on and stays on, then that means you're turned on'
It's just one wire for the LED on the HVAC to the toybox. One to ground.. one to toybox. ta-dah
Haha. It's not quite that simple. There are two options.
1. Drive the LED from the PCM in parallel with LED already in the Toybox.
2. Drive the LED from an extra pin on the Toybox microprocessor.
Potential problems with 1: I'm not sure if the PCM has enough drive to handle two LEDs in parallel. I will need to make measurements to see how the PCM handles it. Odds are good that they used a big enough driver to handle way more current than we need for two LEDs. In that case, you would just need to put a 1k resistor in series with your LED and hook the other end to 12 volts.
Potential problems with 2: I intended to drive the second LED from a spare pin on the microprocessor to avoid the problems with solution 1, but it turned out that I needed that pin more than I would have liked for the display dimming solution. So, it might turn out that the LED would be sort of on when off and sort of off when on. It might not show a big difference between off and on, making it hard to read.
So, you see why I need to do more tests and try these two options out...
So, the speed dependent DAB works. I tried it out with some standard settings of 30 MPH and 60 MPH.
I still managed to spin my tires in DAB 0 in 1st, but I was going slightly uphill. 2nd gear stuck nicely in DAB 1, though. I think I short shifted 2nd gear, so DAB 3 didn't come on until a bit into 3rd gear, but that's just an adjustment that can be made once you figure out your shift points.
I also tried stuff like DAB 0.5 and DAB 1.5, but they didn't work. It picked one or the other. Oh well, no linear boost control for us, at least this time around....
B.t.w. The WOT Box is pretty damn awesome. I tried that out a few times too... But damn, I'm a slow shifter... Gotta work on that...
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</the incredibles>
mmmmkkaayyy
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