it was shipped out of ny on the 26th ,it was sent via usps so it should be there within the next few days.i dont send them priority because it costs too much.
also willing to paypal a few extra bucks to get bumped to priority mail. Letme know if I can do that. Priority should only be a couple extra bucks over parcel post.
Perhaps sell a kit so we can assemble our own? It would cut down on labor furstration. The worst part is probibly cutting the plastic box to mount the switches in, or doing any soldering necessary.
Also, if we wanted to pull the switches out of the box and mount them somewhere how big of a deal would that be?
Having end users assemble their own would be a support nightmare. It's hard enough to support people who have problems with installations. Debugging the toybox + the installation would be much harder.
We fully test the Toybox before it ships, so it is very unlikely there is any problem there.
I'm going to fix most of the assembly problems with a custom printed circuit board and Jay will work on making better production methods for the enclosure.
As for using your own switches, that is a good idea. I will be designing the circuit board soon and I will leave extra connections for using external switches. If you wanted to use that you could open the box and connect your own wires to them. But, of course, that would void your warranty and would be HIGHLY unsupported.
I thought I would update this thread with my results. I will have pictures posted by the weekend since my car is in the shop. I had stage 2 no toys. I bought a toys pcm and sold the no toys pcm. Here are my current mods.
stage 2 with toys pcm, sensors, injectors, agp wga run off the stock vac line, needswings v6 dp with mccord, mopar catback, msd wires, stock champion plugs, filled motor/trans mounts, and some other unimportant stuff.
At first dab was not working for me. I later found it was because i did not push the connector all the way down in b-22 on the pcm connector. I thought it was all the way down since i heard a click, but it was not. Make sure when you install them that you look on the back side of it to see if it made it all the way down or not. I will take pictures this weekend hopefully of what im talking about. I also want to note that ive only used a soldering iron twice in my life. I bought a soldering iron for $6 atautozone. The solder was about $3. It was very cheap, but worked really good.
Hom works perfectly. It functions exactly how the toys bezel works. It blinks when it kicks you out, and you have to toggle the switch the same way to turn it on and off. The car is so much more powerful in hom. Anyone who has stage 3 without toys is really missing out. Even if there is no race gas around you, order a case of torco.
Dab now works fine. However i think my boost is higher on dab 0 and dab 1 due the agp wga. I want to repeat myself. The agp wga is run off the factory vacuum line.
Dab 0- 12 psi
dab 1- 17 psi
dab 2- 19 psi
dab 3- 19 psi
I didnt really test out first and second gear because of the snow tires and cold weather. however im sure the boost is limited on dab 2 just how the toys bezel works.
Overall the unit is very nice. It turned out much nicer than I had anticipated. never2muchboost did a very nice job on it. If you have stage 3 without toys you need this. If you have stage 2 without toys, try and find a toys pcm. I bought one for $200 and sold mine for $225. I included a vin flash though, so I broke even. Its gonna be pretty damn hard to get 25 or more horsepower for $90, that is proven to be reliable since it is tuned by the srt engineers. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
last thing i want to note, is that this will not work on a stage 2 no toys pcm, but it will work on a toys pcm. It will work on stage 3 with or without toys since the pcm's are identical.
Last edited by Remax Realtor : 02-15-2006 at 12:51 PM.
I thought I would update this thread with my results. I will have pictures posted by the weekend since my car is in the shop. I had stage 2 no toys. I bought a toys pcm and sold the no toys pcm. Here are my current mods.
stage 2 with toys pcm, sensors, injectors, agp wga run off the stock vac line, needswings v6 dp with mccord, mopar catback, msd wires, stock champion plugs, filled motor/trans mounts, and some other unimportant stuff.
At first dab was not working for me. I later found it was because i did not push the connector all the way down in b-22 on the pcm connector. I thought it was all the way down since i heard a click, but it was not. Make sure when you install them that you look on the back side of it to see if it made it all the way down or not. I will take pictures this weekend hopefully of what im talking about. I also want to note that ive only used a soldering iron twice in my life. I bought a soldering iron for $6 atautozone. The solder was about $3. It was very cheap, but worked really good.
Hom works perfectly. It functions exactly how the toys bezel works. It blinks when it kicks you out, and you have to toggle the switch the same way to turn it on and off. The car is so much more powerful in hom. Anyone who has stage 3 without toys is really missing out. Even if there is no race gas around you, order a case of torco.
Dab now works fine. However i think my boost is higher on dab 0 and dab 1 due the agp wga. I want to repeat myself. The agp wga is run off the factory vacuum line.
Dab 0- 12 psi
dab 1- 17 psi
dab 2- 19 psi
dab 3- 19 psi
I didnt really test out first and second gear because of the snow tires and cold weather. however im sure the boost is limited on dab 2 just how the toys bezel works.
Overall the unit is very nice. It turned out much nicer than I had anticipated. never2muchboost did a very nice job on it. If you have stage 3 without toys you need this. If you have stage 2 without toys, try and find a toys pcm. I bought one for $200 and sold mine for $225. I included a vin flash though, so I broke even. Its gonna be pretty damn hard to get 25 or more horsepower for $90, that is proven to be reliable since it is tuned by the srt engineers. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
last thing i want to note, is that this will not work on a stage 2 no toys pcm, but it will work on a toys pcm. It will work on stage 3 with or without toys since the pcm's are identical.
That is good to hear. I am a little bit worried about the installation because I have never soldered anything before. Do you have any other pointers, or is the install pretty straight forward? Where did you end up mounting the box?
do not worry about soldering. Its so damn easy. Buy the cheap one from autozone and some solder and your good to go. Put the solder on the wires and melt it on. Then wrap it in electrical tape.
heres a couple pics of the connector and toybox
The first is with the connector not pushed all the way down.
This pic is of the connector pushed all the way down
Here is the toybox with all the leds on. Dont mind the dirty finger
1 of the 3 rocker switches does not click over like the other 2 if that makes sense. 2 of them have a definite on or off the other one just kind of pushes over to the other side. I have not installed it yet but want to know if this might be a problem before I do. Thanks guys.
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