N2MB Electronic boost controller installation guide - Page 7 - SRT Forums

phrozen · 07-06-2009, 08:26 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by allaboutboost

I just had to get a little more creative. Since I had already ran the larger blk wire to the engine bay, I just spliced the two wires backwards of the connector. That should do it. I forgot to get the six pack and is probably the root of my problems.

side note, is there no fancy LED light to let you know its on? And how the hell do you unclip the TPS connector? Mine was covered in enough oil to satisfy the USA till 2011 and once I cleaned it up could not figure out how to unclip without breaking.. I pushed and pulled every little tab I could see. Thanks

The is a blue LED in the box that will light up whenever the key is on. If it isn't lit up, then check the windshield washer fuse. You may have blown it when you connected the 16 awg black wire to ground. That would have been a direct short from power to ground.

The TPS has a red locking clip that you slide back and then you can squeeze the main tab to release the connector.

**winker2112** · 07-06-2009, 08:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by phrozen

The TPS has a red locking clip that you slide back and then you can squeeze the main tab to release the connector.

The TPS doesn't have a red locking clip on it... it's the white plug on the throttle body. Just press the tab (facing radiator push towards throttle body), and pull. I like to push the tab with my thumb, and pry down on the connector using the IAC solenoid as leverage. The connector gets dirt in it, and can be hard to pull off at times. Lil wiggle usually does the trick.

Sorry to correct ya man, but just wanted to clear up any confusion. People will be wondering why it doesn't work when it's getting it's signal from the IAC.

allaboutboost · 07-06-2009, 08:29 PM

Wipers work so I guess I'll be breaking out my volt meter. I had disconnected my postive battery cable before doing any work (mainly to cover mistakes like this). There were two blue wires coming from the fuse block terminal you mentioned. Did it matter which wire I tapped into? Would the black push button have anything to do with this?

allaboutboost · 07-06-2009, 08:32 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by winker2112

The TPS doesn't have a red locking clip on it... it's the white plug on the throttle body. Just press the tab (facing radiator push towards throttle body), and pull. I like to push the tab with my thumb, and pry down on the connector using the IAC solenoid as leverage. The connector gets dirt in it, and can be hard to pull off at times. Lil wiggle usually does the trick.

Sorry to correct ya man, but just wanted to clear up any confusion. People will be wondering why it doesn't work when it's getting it's signal from the IAC.

Saved me from making yet another mistake... HA! Just think, I haven't even gotten to the tuning yet. Are we having fun or what?

phrozen · 07-06-2009, 10:24 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by winker2112

The TPS doesn't have a red locking clip on it... it's the white plug on the throttle body. Just press the tab (facing radiator push towards throttle body), and pull. I like to push the tab with my thumb, and pry down on the connector using the IAC solenoid as leverage. The connector gets dirt in it, and can be hard to pull off at times. Lil wiggle usually does the trick.

Sorry to correct ya man, but just wanted to clear up any confusion. People will be wondering why it doesn't work when it's getting it's signal from the IAC.

Thanks for correcting me. Sorry for the mistake! I was assuming it was like the MAP sensor connector.

phrozen · 07-06-2009, 10:35 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by allaboutboost

Wipers work so I guess I'll be breaking out my volt meter. I had disconnected my postive battery cable before doing any work (mainly to cover mistakes like this). There were two blue wires coming from the fuse block terminal you mentioned. Did it matter which wire I tapped into? Would the black push button have anything to do with this?

Just check to make sure you are getting 12V on the RED wire. Then make sure you have the right wire grounded. It's the middle bottom one, the single black wire.

That should be enough to power it up. Then the software can tell you if the other wires are right.

Shoot us an email at support@n2mb.com and we'll work with you. We can email faster than PM.

allaboutboost · 07-06-2009, 11:01 PM

ITS ALIVE!!

I just unplugged it and plugged it back in and whala. Already programmed my setpoints so just need to wrestle the TPS/map/solenoid wires and I'll be one happy old man. Thanks for all the help.

phrozen · 07-06-2009, 11:30 PM

Additionally, here is the first draft of the installation guide. Take a look over this:

http://sites.npcompleteperformance.c...LLERMANUAL.pdf

harvboi05 · 07-07-2009, 02:14 PM

user manual looks good to me. all the questions ive ever asked about the boost box seemed to be answered in the guide.

**Philth** · 07-07-2009, 02:24 PM

As far as installation goes, might I suggest you specify solenoid #2 for the stock solenoids. May seem trivial but some people may not know?

bribri · 07-07-2009, 02:26 PM

i believe mine is running off the closest one to the cabin...either 1 or 3 not sure without looking...why solenoid #2?

p.s. phrozen, guess it was just a fluke with the boost changing after the tbolts...either it corrected itself already or maybe it was just acting up...i dunno...either way its back to where it should be

**Philth** · 07-07-2009, 02:28 PM

LOL I thought it was solenoid 2. Maybe I am mistaken. I'm not at my car right now so I won't be able to confirm for a while. Can somebody else?

It IS the one closest to the cabin. For some reason I remember it being numbered out of sequence.

bribri · 07-07-2009, 02:45 PM

with my luck it prob is #2, but i figured they learned ordering over at dodge

allaboutboost · 07-08-2009, 12:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by never2muchboost

Run the black 16 gauge wire from the paired red/black wires from the boost controller to this location. Cut the two solenoid wires as shown in the picture. The black wire will be connected to a suitable ground location (battery ground will work best) .Use the supplied ground lug for this wire. Splice the black 16 gauge wire to blue wire on the boost solenoid.
Using the supplied resistor wire the cut ends of the stock boost solenoid wiring and connect the resistor inline to those two wires. This will eliminate a check engine light from the stock solenoid being unplugged from the pcm

Ok, I finally got everything hooked up. Haven't gone WOT yet but set 2-5 gear to 10 psi with 20% PID, 8 learning, and both K's to 2. Just to clarify. I am connecting the black wire coming off the solenoid to a ground. I installed the resistor to the cut wires coming out of the stock wire loom but still have a CEL? I'll take pics tomorrow and post if necessary. Thanks

allaboutboost · 07-08-2009, 12:44 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by bribri

with my luck it prob is #2, but i figured they learned ordering over at dodge

Yes, its 2-1-3 from windshield to bumper.