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#1 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Member Number: 7640
Location: SW VA
Posts: 231
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As it says, it just quit. I've checked all the wiring. Wiggled the blue wire running to the TPS and the light on the box will blink w/ the throttle to the floor in the key on position. When I go to 2 Step it just shoots on past 4200 RPMs to the rev limiter. Now the light has stopped blinking when I do the KOEO(Key On Engine Off) tests, it just stays solid. Could my TPS be crapping out? It idles fine and drives fine, just no 2 Step or WOT. Attatched are snapshots w/ the car on, clutch up and down.
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S256, DSP, FIC 900s, MPx 3" TBE, AGP 4" CAI, AGP FMIC, 180* t-stat, Walbro 255, AGP return line, N2MB 2-Step/WOT Box & Boost Box, ACT HD 6 Puck Clutch, LSD, AGP Solid Mounts
342 HP/360 TQ TDS Mustang Dyno and 93(Turbo666 dyno tune) 380 HP/380 TQ on HIS Motorsports Dynojet and 110(Turbo666 e-mail tuned) e85 #s coming soon! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Member Number: 7640
Location: SW VA
Posts: 231
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I think I may have accidentally posted 2 pics of the box w/ the clutch down I just did from my hotel in PA. My brain is fried from day 13 of 14 straight days of work, but I'll do another with the clutch up and down as soon as I get back home to VA early Tuesday morning(around 5 AM EST). Just hoping someone has experienced this before or knows if it is in fact a TPS issue.
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S256, DSP, FIC 900s, MPx 3" TBE, AGP 4" CAI, AGP FMIC, 180* t-stat, Walbro 255, AGP return line, N2MB 2-Step/WOT Box & Boost Box, ACT HD 6 Puck Clutch, LSD, AGP Solid Mounts
342 HP/360 TQ TDS Mustang Dyno and 93(Turbo666 dyno tune) 380 HP/380 TQ on HIS Motorsports Dynojet and 110(Turbo666 e-mail tuned) e85 #s coming soon! Last edited by The Game; 11-11-2012 at 08:19 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011
Member Number: 85391
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 106
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Curious. I have almost exactly the same problem as you do. The box worked one day, and stopped working the next. The box still blinks but neither the 2 step or WOT work anymore. I went through all the same procedures with no luck. N2MB basically told me to bad so sad.
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05 SRT-4 Stage 3 - S3, MPx BFMIC, AGP WG, Maxxfab 3"exhaust, Tein SS, 325WHP 340WTQ pump
95 Skyline GTR V-spec - Garret 2860-5's, HKS HIpermax, BBS LM Champ, 550WHP on pump |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor (Gold)
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Member Number: 25854
Location: Philadelphia,PA
Posts: 5,001
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Curious. I have almost exactly the same problem as you do. The box worked one day, and stopped working the next. The box still blinks but neither the 2 step or WOT work anymore. I went through all the same procedures with no luck. N2MB basically told me to bad so sad.
Hi, We would never say you are out of luck! Send us an email at support@n2mb.com with details of your problem. We will help you troubleshoot the problem and repair or replace the WOT Box, if needed. -Jon
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#5 (permalink) |
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Supporting Vendor (Gold)
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Member Number: 25854
Location: Philadelphia,PA
Posts: 5,001
|
I think I may have accidentally posted 2 pics of the box w/ the clutch down I just did from my hotel in PA. My brain is fried from day 13 of 14 straight days of work, but I'll do another with the clutch up and down as soon as I get back home to VA early Tuesday morning(around 5 AM EST). Just hoping someone has experienced this before or knows if it is in fact a TPS issue.
Yup, check to make sure it is still reading the clutch signal. If it doesn't get that, it won't work. Follow the troubleshooting instructions below and let me know which step doesn't work. Otherwise, your settings look good. One last thing you can try is clicking "load firmware" to reset everything back to defaults. Then see if it starts working again. Right after you reset the defaults, be sure to turn off the lockout, since that will trip many people up. Troubleshooting ‐ Testing the WOT Box Key on the car but do not start the engine. Press the gas pedal to the floor. You should see the LED on the WOT Box start to rapidly blink. If it does not, check your APP or TPS sensor signal connection (WOT Box BLUE wire). Next, with the gas pedal still depressed, press the clutch pedal to the floor. You should see the LED on the WOT Box briefly go out, and then come back on solid for one second and then finally resume blinking rapidly. If you do not see this, check your Clutch Pedal Position Switch signal connection (WOT Box GREEN wire). Next, start the engine. Quickly press the gas pedal to the floor and immediately step on the clutch. You should hear the engine start to rev up, stumble for a short period while the ignition is cut, then return back on and continue revving. Remove your foot from the gas before you hit the rev limiter. The 2‐step will not engage if the gas is depressed before the clutch. This is normal. If the engine does not stumble or pause when the LED turns out, then check the RED/BLACK paired wire. Verify that the RED and BLACK 16 AWG wires are wired facing the proper way. If they are reversed, the ignition cut will not work. Lastly, test the 2‐Step. Before engaging the 2-step, make sure the engine is idling in neutral with the clutch up at less than 1500 RPM. Press the clutch pedal down and then press the gas pedal all the way down. The gas pedal must be floored for the 2‐step to engage. The engine should rev up to the desired RPM and hold. If it does not, be sure to remove your foot from the gas before you hit the rev limiter. If the 2‐step does not work, check the WOT Box YELLOW wire. The WOT Box Graphical User Interface has some inherent troubleshooting capability. If you have access to a laptop, it may be useful for you to download the GUI at N2MB Racing and follow the instructions there.
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#6 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Member Number: 7640
Location: SW VA
Posts: 231
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Thanks Jon, I actually did reload the firmware on the box and made sure the lockout and alternate RPMs weren't checked. It still gets clutch voltage up and down. I checked all my wiring this afternoon, sent you a few new snapshots today via emial. Even used the serial USB cable from my Boost Box to connect to the 2 step/Wot box to program, which it did. Still no change. The LED will not blink in any of the test modes nor w/ the engine on like normal. Totally baffled!
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S256, DSP, FIC 900s, MPx 3" TBE, AGP 4" CAI, AGP FMIC, 180* t-stat, Walbro 255, AGP return line, N2MB 2-Step/WOT Box & Boost Box, ACT HD 6 Puck Clutch, LSD, AGP Solid Mounts
342 HP/360 TQ TDS Mustang Dyno and 93(Turbo666 dyno tune) 380 HP/380 TQ on HIS Motorsports Dynojet and 110(Turbo666 e-mail tuned) e85 #s coming soon! |
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#7 (permalink) |
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SRTforums Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Member Number: 7640
Location: SW VA
Posts: 231
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Update: Got it fixed guys! It was the yellow wire running to the cps. Everything is rewired and good to go! Now the debate on whether or not to go ignition cut only haha.
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S256, DSP, FIC 900s, MPx 3" TBE, AGP 4" CAI, AGP FMIC, 180* t-stat, Walbro 255, AGP return line, N2MB 2-Step/WOT Box & Boost Box, ACT HD 6 Puck Clutch, LSD, AGP Solid Mounts
342 HP/360 TQ TDS Mustang Dyno and 93(Turbo666 dyno tune) 380 HP/380 TQ on HIS Motorsports Dynojet and 110(Turbo666 e-mail tuned) e85 #s coming soon! |
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