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Old 08-15-2008, 03:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Why do you need a fuel pump rewire?

Quote: Originally Posted by 04blusrt_4 View Post
Just thought i would share my results (plenty have done it, just giving mine). Ok, here are my mods...

s3 turbo (home ported 02 side of mani)
s2 pcm w/o toys
PTP s3 wga
Mpx BFMIC
Maxxfab 3" 02
Maxxfab 3" Side Exit
s2/s3 injectors
Returnline (03 rail to Aero 1:1)
Bottleneck fix
Walbro 255
All your other basic bolt ons...

My main issue and reason for doing the rewire was I was running lean up top, even with through the roof fuel pressure.

Before Rewire Installed:
Boost set to 23 spike, 21 hold
Static FP set to 62, hooked up 1:1
Neo pulling 14% to 4600, then 0% to redline
AFR's - 11.3-11.5 to 4600, then 12.3-12.5 up to redline

After Rewire Installed:
Boost set to 24 spike, 21 hold (upped it just a hair to help lean out top end!!)
Static FP set to 56, hooked up 1:1
Neo pulling 12-15% right to redline (12% from 5600 to 6000)
AFR's - 11.2 - 11.5 from 3000 to redline

Now according to PTP, they only suggest the rewire will add back in .3 to your AFR, but i think for people that are running return lines and are maxing out their pumps / injectors, there is MUCH more gained. I was able to drop my FP by 6psi, still pull more fuel to redline, put in 1psi more boost, and STILL gained over 1.0 in my AFR's.

I'm a happy camper Oh yea, and the PTP kit was great, most complain how pricey it is, but i gotta say, the quality of the kit is not anything i could replicate, they epoxy and shrink wrap all connections, give 2 relays (1 spare), and it only requires splicing one wire. Took about 25 minutes total to install.

Stock pump only gets 10 volts at idle and 8 volts at 4800 RPM.
Longer pump life, if you have an electrical item that is suppose to run at 12 volts and it’s forced to run at a lower voltage it causes strain on the electrical devise.
More fuel (more volts means you have more pump volume).
Plug-n-Play, yep only one wire to splice into the harness other then that it’s a PNP with only basic tools needed.
30 minute install (tested and confirmed)
ROHS compliant wires and connectors with a sealed really to keep dirt and debris out (ROHS is an industry standard, not cheap wire).
Extra relay for that "just in case".
Kit is complete with directions, zip ties, self tapping screws to make it an install and go type of part. No need to go to the auto parts store and pick up additional items for the install.

This is a MUST HAVE part for the SRT4.

Guys before you even think about injectors or a bigger pump.... this is a must do part. The factory system is so piss poor that free fuel is just $89 away.
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Before Rewire Installed:
Boost set to 23 spike, 21 hold
Static FP set to 62, hooked up 1:1

Neo pulling 14% to 4600, then 0% to redline
AFR's - 11.3-11.5 to 4600, then 12.3-12.5 up to redline

Thats his lean problem. The regulator cant go any higher then 72psi he is trying to run 83psi?
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The re-wire is well worth it...the butt dyno is claiming a 10 to 15 whp increase from 4500 to redline...on top of the fact Im not running lean anymore past the same 4500.

single most noticable part / mod I've done to my car-runs better than the one day it spent in stock trim b4 I started modding

Last edited by JonBones : 07-29-2009 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Make sure you got that inline fuse from the alt, Saved my ass twice already
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Make sure you got that inline fuse from the alt, Saved my ass twice already

care to explain?
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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saves relay from blowing....fuse = >$ than relay to replace...
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Not only that but if a wire melts and hits metal.............. fire...........sparks............bad news. Fuse blows, replace fuse, no fire, no sparks, no hassle. fuses are such a great invention.
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Chief View Post
Not only that but if a wire melts and hits metal.............. fire...........sparks............bad news. Fuse blows, replace fuse, no fire, no sparks, no hassle. fuses are such a great invention.

Fuse should blow in the relay center if you short it out long enough, if its a small short that grounds out on the heat sheild, the metal ring will melt off the back of the alternator.

I guess if people start asking for a fuse, installing one wouldn't be a problem.
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just got done with this mod. I should have done this 5 years ago! Very easy, and fast to install and I can tell there is a power gain. I have a 255 fp also, so that is going in soon. I wonder if that will make a difference like the rewire?
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 4drsportscar View Post
I just got done with this mod. I should have done this 5 years ago! Very easy, and fast to install and I can tell there is a power gain. I have a 255 fp also, so that is going in soon. I wonder if that will make a difference like the rewire?

Not so much with the pump as the rewire making a change.

Thanks for the post, everyone should have one of these on their car!
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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It's true. easy to do, it's cheap to do, and it works! it should be the first mod , with a DSP and a WOT box done to these little cars.
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:42 AM   #12 (permalink)
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ok sold what's your paypal ptp so i could send money...i got leaning out issues on top end
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