Very very informative. I'm a relative noob when it comes to the turbo side of things so this is great for reinforcing my ideas and giving me a little more confidence that what I had planned is the right path.
Now, I have a question out of this because it has me somewhat worried. You say 05's are prone to throwing codes without a staged comp. I plan on running a DTEC FC/BC to run fuel and boost. Will I be alright with this or do I need a map clamp or even staged comp? I guess maybe I do some more research on this as I'm lost at the moment.
Once again, great writeup!
Yes 05's are a pain in the ASS when it comes to setting codes. Just get the stg 1 or better yet the stage 2 and you will be much happier in the long run.
Thanks for the response! I guess I should have narrowed my question down into my little idea..... If I run a staged comp then there's no need for the FC/BC right? The plan is to stay stock turbo until I can purchase the parts to go .50 trim or higher. Thats why I want to run the FC/BC so I can think twice, buy once....
Thanks again for the response as I understand you are insanely busy.
John you are so right on with this thread. I will comment on the late '05 S0 ecu as I have a years experience with mine. As I have gone up the path of mods I have gotten SO TIRED of fighting the cel codes. I will get p0234, p2074, p1697 and p1188 so often that I finally bought an S1 that should be installed this week. When it's running without cels it's great- when I get cel codes the car can either run ok, run wrong or cut out. It will even not start at times until I pull the fuse and reset the computer despite clearing the cel codes. I have an AeroForce scan gauge and can reset the codes but somtimes the only way to get the ecu to let the car run is to pull the fuse and let it sit for about 2 min. It then starts and runs everytime. Until the cel codes come back. S1 this week! Flight systems is less than an hour from me in MI- I will take it there and Stephanie will reprogram it for me- cool, eh. Great stuff John, keep up the great work and make it so you can continue being the premier vendor on the forum. Dr. Mike
Balance Shaft removal BEFORE WGA? I've never heard that. Why is that a safety issue? I thought you had to be in the 400 HP range before you worry about that chain breaking?
I'm S1 (injectors too), wires and plugs already done and SRI. My next plans were to ziptie vac lines, get PTP check valve put in and check/fix leaks. Next I was going to go with the PTP WGA.
My first goal here is to get rid of my leaks because I spike 15-16 and hold 12, but I have a horrible needle flutter. 2nd goal with the WGA and leaks fixed is to spike maybe 18 and hold 14 or more... am I dreaming? Am I missing something? I know I need exhaust to do much more, but I want to make the most of what I have before I start throwing any major money at it...
Balance Shaft removal BEFORE WGA? I've never heard that. Why is that a safety issue? I thought you had to be in the 400 HP range before you worry about that chain breaking?
I'm S1 (injectors too), wires and plugs already done and SRI. My next plans were to ziptie vac lines, get PTP check valve put in and check/fix leaks. Next I was going to go with the PTP WGA.
My first goal here is to get rid of my leaks because I spike 15-16 and hold 12, but I have a horrible needle flutter. 2nd goal with the WGA and leaks fixed is to spike maybe 18 and hold 14 or more... am I dreaming? Am I missing something? I know I need exhaust to do much more, but I want to make the most of what I have before I start throwing any major money at it...
Just playing it safe, if your going to mod you will be getting to that power level sooner or later. You should be Ok to run boost levels like that but it would be money better spent if you just got a downpipe. More gains would be had with your mods with exhaust flow then adding more boost.
John, great write up, this is the thread I've been looking for. I think that I've laid some decent ground work so far (3" TBE, STS W/bushings, CC & CV, wires, CAI, MM inserts, strut tower brace, Mopar BOV upgrade) and am looking for more power. This is a DD '04 30,000mi 1st turbo car and i want it to last. I have about $500 to blow and was looking for some advice. My goal is to eventually be around 350 HP, but like I said, I drive this car to work everyday so I gotta have good driveability. Would you recommend saving for stage 2? And do I need the toys, I'll probably hit the track once or twice a month and those months are limited (I live in Illinois). Should I go WGA, BC, TB, FMIC? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
John, great write up, this is the thread I've been looking for. I think that I've laid some decent ground work so far (3" TBE, STS W/bushings, CC & CV, wires, CAI, MM inserts, strut tower brace, Mopar BOV upgrade) and am looking for more power. This is a DD '04 30,000mi 1st turbo car and i want it to last. I have about $500 to blow and was looking for some advice. My goal is to eventually be around 350 HP, but like I said, I drive this car to work everyday so I gotta have good driveability. Would you recommend saving for stage 2? And do I need the toys, I'll probably hit the track once or twice a month and those months are limited (I live in Illinois). Should I go WGA, BC, TB, FMIC? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
SST and Intimidator manifold. Now I know these are out of your price right now but the reason for the SST is drivability, plain and simple. If you like your car now you will not like it when you but a WGA on it. PTB and surge really drive some crazy, the SST gets rid of all those problems. We have several that are running bigger injectors on stock PCM's (non 05) with very good luck supporting the SST. There are many benifits to the SST and very few draw backs (more tickets and tires go away much quicker). Other then that I would start with the PTP FMIC and t-body (60mm or the 55mm both work great). Those would be the next thing I would look into getting. Hope this helps.
Balance Shaft removal BEFORE WGA? I've never heard that. Why is that a safety issue? I thought you had to be in the 400 HP range before you worry about that chain breaking?
I'm S1 (injectors too), wires and plugs already done and SRI. My next plans were to ziptie vac lines, get PTP check valve put in and check/fix leaks. Next I was going to go with the PTP WGA.
My first goal here is to get rid of my leaks because I spike 15-16 and hold 12, but I have a horrible needle flutter. 2nd goal with the WGA and leaks fixed is to spike maybe 18 and hold 14 or more... am I dreaming? Am I missing something? I know I need exhaust to do much more, but I want to make the most of what I have before I start throwing any major money at it...
Just playing it safe, if your going to mod you will be getting to that power level sooner or later. You should be Ok to run boost levels like that but it would be money better spent if you just got a downpipe. More gains would be had with your mods with exhaust flow then adding more boost.
What's the noise difference associated with adding a downpipe? Personally open exhuast would be my favorite but my passengers (primarily girlfriend) are much more noise-sensitive.
Balance Shaft removal BEFORE WGA? I've never heard that. Why is that a safety issue? I thought you had to be in the 400 HP range before you worry about that chain breaking?
I'm S1 (injectors too), wires and plugs already done and SRI. My next plans were to ziptie vac lines, get PTP check valve put in and check/fix leaks. Next I was going to go with the PTP WGA.
My first goal here is to get rid of my leaks because I spike 15-16 and hold 12, but I have a horrible needle flutter. 2nd goal with the WGA and leaks fixed is to spike maybe 18 and hold 14 or more... am I dreaming? Am I missing something? I know I need exhaust to do much more, but I want to make the most of what I have before I start throwing any major money at it...
Just playing it safe, if your going to mod you will be getting to that power level sooner or later. You should be Ok to run boost levels like that but it would be money better spent if you just got a downpipe. More gains would be had with your mods with exhaust flow then adding more boost.
What's the noise difference associated with adding a downpipe? Personally open exhuast would be my favorite but my passengers (primarily girlfriend) are much more noise-sensitive.
Not really that much. If you get a good down pipe you will not see that much of a noise increase inside car just out side. I recommend that you get the PTP downpipe due to we are the only ones that have 14 gauge material for the pipe which cuts down on resonance on the inside of the car. Hope that helps.
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