Ok this is for all that need some help with getting to "know" there FTM. This will be for all FTM owners only, any and all other threads will be deleted. If the answers cant be found here you will need to call me so we can work through the tuning issues together. I hope this helps all that buy or have bought the FTM. I will make this a group effort so if you have advice and own a FTM. Help where you can, thanks.
OK. I up graded the file. (thanks for the help) set everything up and im pulling -10 from the Global adjustment ( I think thats what its called ) Now Just to make sure i got this right. In the boxes to the right next to the Vac/Boost numbers. That is to pull fuel according to Vac/Boost level. If thats right. All you have to do is to put in the percentage of fuel you want added or pulled at that level. Ie. -5 = pull 5% fuel or 5 = add 5%. If im missing anything. Let me know. Im anxious to get this dailed in right.
You hit the nail on the head. The boxes are for the fine tuning of the fuel map so when you activate the autotune it doesnt have to work overtime to keep the AFR's at there best.
Ok John mine is on and the car is running. I played around with it a little bit. You sent me a zip file to upgrade the software but when I tried to decompress it I got an error saying the file was corrupted so I'm going to need that file again. I have S2 injectors with the 80psi FPR mod so I'm geussing I will need to pull alot of fuel in the global settings. I will call you in a little bit.
I will definatly post up here when I get more familiar with this thing. With any tips or suggestions I might have. I have a few install tips like recomended tools and stuff.
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It’s MY LIFE — what you think of me is none of my business
When setting up the wideband for the autotune we can find the required information in our wideband manual correct? Such as what voltages, etc that are needed to be put in there? I dont remember what the interface looked like exactly, but I did find my manual for my wideband.
Also is it necessary to calibrate the sensors and the RPM? The TPS sensor I believe is one of the options would be easy since as it says per instructions to make sure the key is turned to the "on" position, but car is off, etc just as the instructions say to do. The only one that is a little tough and not sure how accurate it has to be is the last calibration option. I dont remember what it was called, but it required you to have car on. It is asked for you to hold the throttle at 2krpm and hit the button to calibrate it....little tough when it doesnt like to stay exactly at 2k.
As far as installation goes please do not assume you have the correct wires. To make 100% sure you have the right wire you can take the black cover off of the harnesses that plug into the cars ecu for verification you have the correct pin. PIN numbers are given in the instructions for verification. I at first didnt know you could take the covers off, but when I found out I could it made it much easier finding out what was what.
Which wideband do you have vschaos? I am runningthe AEM wideband and got my numbers from the AEM website. And John included the parametere for 3 differant WB and on generic file on the disc.
As far as the wiring goes before I went outside I printed out the pinout diagrams from my service manual. One thing I did notice on the instructions the 2 ecu plug you use are the black and the gray. Well on my car which is an 03 the gray plug was orange not gray. I hope this does not cause confusion for other 03 SRT owners. Maybe they changed the p;ug color between 03 and 04-05 model years. I also have a pic of the wiring harness that I drew up with the wiring instruction.
Ok this is an easy one. Hook up your laptop and do a sensor calibration. Calibrate wideband gauge. On the screen for calibrating the wideband you will see a folder key in the lower right hand side of the screen. If you have the software disc in your CD drive you can click on the folder key it will open a brose window. From here click on your CD drive to open the disc. Look for a folder titled AF interpolation tables. If you click this it will open another window showing 4 differant files one of them is NGK AFX wideband calibrations. Click on the NGK file and it will load the calibrations in for you.
Ok this is an easy one. Hook up your laptop and do a sensor calibration. Calibrate wideband gauge. On the screen for calibrating the wideband you will see a folder key in the lower right hand side of the screen. If you have the software disc in your CD drive you can click on the folder key it will open a brose window. From here click on your CD drive to open the disc. Look for a folder titled AF interpolation tables. If you click this it will open another window showing 4 differant files one of them is NGK AFX wideband calibrations. Click on the NGK file and it will load the calibrations in for you.
This software seems to be doing great. SRTOWNER is a good friend of mine and he speaks very well of it. However, I haven't been able to see it in action, I will more than likely be getting this too.
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Mopar Stage 3R with Toys
2004 Flame Red SRT-4
Turbocharged 2.4L DOHC I4 HO
I love mine. When i first installed it and was running really high boost i was getting a lean spike right after the boost would hit. It took a little playing around with the fuel map but figured out that the lean spike happened right at the targets i had the Autotune set to turn on. Solution= i added like .5-1% fuel all the way across the rpm where the autotune was set to come on. Example. Autotune triggers= 10 psi boost, and 85% throttle. So at 10psi in the fuel map all the way across the map i added a small amount of fuel. Now my a/f is flat as a board from the get go, and it only happened when the boost was really cranked up.
Randy
Good info guys, and vschaos I talked with you a little today (sorry for being short with you) and I think you might be having an issue with the calibration and possibly an issue with your wideband sensor. Where you have it installed would cause a higher failure rate of the sensor (in the o2 housing). You could be on your way to having a WB sensor failure. Good to hear about the runs with the mustang (dam your car must be fast now). I will help you with what I can over the weekend but make sure you get the annolog out wire figured out as well. Good luck and thanks for all the help guys.
Good info guys, and vschaos I talked with you a little today (sorry for being short with you) and I think you might be having an issue with the calibration and possibly an issue with your wideband sensor. Where you have it installed would cause a higher failure rate of the sensor (in the o2 housing). You could be on your way to having a WB sensor failure. Good to hear about the runs with the mustang (dam your car must be fast now). I will help you with what I can over the weekend but make sure you get the annolog out wire figured out as well. Good luck and thanks for all the help guys.
Yea the cobra was definitly quick, but I made him piss his pants when he could only barely walk away from me. Not bad when he is 500hp+. I do agree the sensor may be going out as well, but to make sure its still good I will take it out and try to recalibrate it this week. I remember asking you about the global clamping....its set at 5.00 volts and have no touched that. Anyone else here fooled with there or is there a need to? I also will be looking at the analog wire on the wideband to figure out where it is. Also on the output for the wideband I have it says there is also an output ground. Do I need to make sure that wire is ground somewhere?