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Old 08-20-2006, 09:43 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Hey, I'm a DSm owner, found your post via google; looks like a great way to help keep the boost from leaking into the valve cover.

I searched their website; no luck finding the part.

Is it the grey part in the pic or the brass part?

So what is the part number? How much are these going for? Is there a link?

If I get one and it works, I will refer a bunch of DSM owners to that company as well.

Thanks..
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Old 08-21-2006, 02:08 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by dsmdriver
Hey, I'm a DSm owner, found your post via google; looks like a great way to help keep the boost from leaking into the valve cover.

I searched their website; no luck finding the part.

Is it the grey part in the pic or the brass part?

So what is the part number? How much are these going for? Is there a link?

If I get one and it works, I will refer a bunch of DSM owners to that company as well.

Thanks..

Hit me up with a PM and we can talk a bit. I have them here and the site is getting tested now to make sure that everything is working as it should. You can refer them to here and if they have Paypal accounts you can order them up no problems or CC and call so we can take the order over the phone. The part is the silver and 2 brass fittings with a bit of hose to hook it up. If there is something that would work as a different design (better fitiment) then let me know. I can put just about any fitting on the ends of the check valves and they sell for $41.45 shipped. If you need any of the details of the valves let me know. I have only had 3 fail out of 1000's so far an all 3 have been the seals that lifted inside (factory deffect). We boost leak check every single one and put PTFE sealant on the threads as well to keep them from leaking for a very long time. Let me know what you would like to see and we can go from there, thanks.
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Last edited by ptperformance : 08-21-2006 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:18 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by MDRACER
Yes that will work- you will have a totally passive crankcase ventilation system like in the old days before PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) as a hot rodder from the 60's and 70's I know it works- you just need to make sure the engine can vent pressure in and out so you don't pressurise the bottom end as it will create parasitic HP loss and possibly blow oil out. I have found it best to limit air into the motor and have easy blow out. A catch can and a checkvalve is HIGHLY recommended on any application- street cars these days just throw it back into the intake system. On a turbo or super charger motor you DO NOT want to pressuize the bottom end. Piston ring sealing has nothing to do with the spring pressure of the rings- it is the combustion gas over the piston that seals the rings- therefore anything you can do to decrease pressure in the crankcase/motor is essential. You will therefore increase ring sealing, decrease parasitic motor drag and oil loss. The diagram at the beginning of this thread makes the most sense to me, esp. on a boosted car. The PCV will not hold boost, you will then pressurize the bottom and blow oil/foam out the valve cover into the intake system. You could of course put a catch can there and collect it (NOT!). Makes no sense. A check valve that doesn't allow pressurizing of the crankcase will stop that. You still need to vent the top of the motor- valve cover/ top driver's to allow venting to atmosphere to not pressurize the motor. There are more sophisticated ways to do this with race motors, but this is a viable way to do this- by the way, my catch can is not getting oil and I do not have to add oil like I did before I did this. pm me if you have questions. Dr. MIke

My question is that if the guy in post #28 taps into his normal PCV line and runs it to the intake, won't he be creating a boost leak? Under pressure of boost the pressurized air will flow to the intake. I mean there would be not problem if he had a CV on the TB, but if not the would be a boost leak. If i am not correct that ok, but just trying to clear my understanding.
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:45 PM   #34 (permalink)
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You are not correct- the check valve only opens under vacuum- it only allows airflow into the throttle body (TB). The point of this is not allow any boost to leak through the PCV into the motor, pressurizing the crankcase and blowing oil/mist into the intake system. If you have questions I can answer please pm me. Dr. Mike
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:09 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I just reread post#28- I'll answer your question in another way- there should not be any boost leak in a passive system as in his diagram unless he has boost leak either through leaky valve guides or piston rings. The turbo is pressurizing the intake system (major potential source of boost leaks), then the cylinders and finally the exhaust side (we like that! the turbo is there) There is no boost in the intake system before the turbo and only a small amount of vacuum where he has it hooked up. I personally like to pull some of the fumes out of my motor with an effective vent system- but not allow the motor to be pressurized under boost. Think of the check valve as an additional PCV valve as that is how it functions. The stock PCV valve is a leaker- I tested it by simply blowing through it and air went through! (NO BAD JOKES GUYS- I said suck baby suck- blow is only an expression ) Dr. Mike
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:36 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by MDRACER
I just reread post#28- I'll answer your question in another way- there should not be any boost leak in a passive system as in his diagram unless he has boost leak either through leaky valve guides or piston rings. The turbo is pressurizing the intake system (major potential source of boost leaks), then the cylinders and finally the exhaust side (we like that! the turbo is there) There is no boost in the intake system before the turbo and only a small amount of vacuum where he has it hooked up. I personally like to pull some of the fumes out of my motor with an effective vent system- but not allow the motor to be pressurized under boost. Think of the check valve as an additional PCV valve as that is how it functions. The stock PCV valve is a leaker- I tested it by simply blowing through it and air went through! (NO BAD JOKES GUYS- I said suck baby suck- blow is only an expression ) Dr. Mike

I needed a good laugh, thanks Mike.
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Old 08-29-2006, 04:07 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Website still not accessible, uhm, how much for the CV? I would like to have one.


Quote: Originally Posted by ptperformance
Towards the t-body.

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Old 08-29-2006, 04:59 PM   #38 (permalink)
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did you get the info? Look at the parts prices sticky
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Old 08-29-2006, 05:29 PM   #39 (permalink)
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bump for the people wondering how this works or what it does
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:19 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 4DRVIPER
Website still not accessible, uhm, how much for the CV? I would like to have one.


Quote: Originally Posted by ptperformance
Towards the t-body.

All the details are in my sig, thanks.
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Old 08-31-2006, 04:48 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 4DRVIPER
Website still not accessible, uhm, how much for the CV? I would like to have one.


Quote: Originally Posted by ptperformance
Towards the t-body.

$41.45 shipped send paypal to John at ptperformance@comcast.net if you need to call him 253-653-3843 shop hours 9am to 7pm pst.

I bolded the important info.
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Old 10-04-2006, 02:30 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Wow people are still questioning the effectiveness of the CV? i thought we settled this eons ago.....
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Old 10-05-2006, 01:44 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Can you clean the stock PCV valve?

-Byebye
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Old 10-05-2006, 02:04 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by byebye
Can you clean the stock PCV valve?

-Byebye

Umm, well I geuss in a pinch you could but why? A new one is only like $10 or so.
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Old 10-05-2006, 03:18 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by srtowner
Quote: Originally Posted by byebye
Can you clean the stock PCV valve?

-Byebye

Umm, well I geuss in a pinch you could but why? A new one is only like $10 or so.

I started a new thread explaining that I'm overseas and shipping can take up to two weeks or longer for a stock replacement and about the same time for the PTP CV. My question was in a pinch could I just clean it? How hard is it to remove and how hard is it to clean? And will the replacement get dirty and will the ptp cv get dirty? I have a friend who has a CV and it is covered with dried up oil. We did a boost leak test on his and yes it works very well but in the mean time can I just clean my stock PCV?

Thanks for your help!

-Byebye
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