Official SST time slip and dyno thread (everything thread)
How to get on this thread?
You have to own either the SST for the stock turbo or the SST stage 3.
I will be combining all the SST threads into this one when the time comes so people have a place to go to talk about the SST's.
SST's 1/4 mile times
1. 12.58@111 dcoop
2. 12.90@ 104 DAB 3, HOM keito
3.12.21 @ 115.8 Stock manifold, stock o2 housing and timming was getting pulled. 23" slicks spinning through first. mxpimp18
4. 13.1 at 89mph me shifter broke and had to drive the damn thing home in 3rd sst on 22psi. lyncoo
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
You have some track runs with your PTP modded car? You have a few street runs you want to share? Post them here with a link and a what you ran and will put them all here in the first post. Thanks guys!!
Well, after about 5 hours and 4 broken knuckles, I finally got my new Forward Motion E1 turbo installed. First off, I would like to say that the turbo was packaged perfectly and shipped quickly with tracking. Way to go Foward Motion .
Second, a big hurray to Forward Motion for an awesome turbo at a great price. The craftsmanship was second to none and the turbo looked outstanding in everyway. Like I said earlier, the turbo was packaged perfectly and Foward Motion included one of their new performance product catalogs.
Here's the problem. They did include instructions and they are complete, but I felt that they did not include the little tips that the average person might need performing the swap in their garage or driveway . If you have swapped a turbo before or have a ton of experienc with cars than this post will probably not help you. If your an average guy like me and your looking to swap the turbo in your garage or driveway, this is for you. Oh, sorry that there's no pics so try to follow along.
First off with the list of tools you are going to need; 16mm, 12mm, and 8mm box wrenches, 16mm, 13mm, 10mm, and 8mm sockets with a wrench, a large flat head screw driver, and a small mirror. Also, have a buddy on standby for the install to help hold parts and hold a flashlight in place (you can get by alone on the removal but a friend is key for the install).
REMOVAL TIME...
The directions say to first disconnet the negative terminal on the battery. Easy enough, just use the 12 mm box wrench and your good to go. I went a step further and completely removed the battery by using a deep socket 13mm wrench with a 12inch extension. It's nice to have room and it makes a good place to put your beer.
Now you need to remove the top cover of your heat sheild. I believe you'll need your trusty 10mm socket wrench for this one. You may also need a box wrench for those tight to reach places. It will also give you great pleasure later if you can loosen an slightly remove you lower half of you heat shlied. You'll thank me later for this one when your trying to wrench off the lower coolant out line.
After the heat shield is off, it's time to remove the WGA. This one is simple. Use a 12mm socket wrench and remove the (2) bolts that face the manifold. Once the bolts are removed, just pull the cotter pin on the flapper and off the with the WGA.
Next remove the intake pipe from the air box to the turbo. This is where the big flat head screw driver comes in handy. Comes off in a sinch.
Then remove the oil feed line and bolt which is on the top of the turbo. This is where I recomend removing the coil pack first with a 10mm socket wrench. It's not required but does make for an eaiser job when your trying to wrench the oil and coolant lines.
A 16mm socket wrench comes in handy for the oil feed line. You can also use a 16mm box wrench like I did, it's fielders choice. Be careful to remove the washers on both sides of the line. The inside washer may be stuck to the turbo so don't forget to remove it right away. You wouldn't want to loose it .
Next the directions say to remove the coolant lines and bolts from the back of the turbo. This can be tricky. I recomend using a 16mm short box wrench. First soak the bolts in PB or WD-40, then they'll be sure to come off in a flash. Remove the top coolant in line first and the bottom coolant out line second. Again remeber to be very careful to remove both the inside and outside washers from the lines. This is very tricky and I suggest having a friend on hand to look around on the ground after they fall because they will. This can save countless minutes (and many oh f&*ks and sh*ts) looking around after they hit the ground. Take this advise from experience, it sucks . You will also leak coolant everywhere so be prepared and have a towel ready sitting under the car.
The directions say to next remove the oil return line from the bottom of the turbo. I say good luck getting to those bolts with the turbo still mounted to the manifold. I recomend to remove the clamp holding the turbo to the manifold with your trusty 10mm socket wrench. Then pull the clamp completely off from around the turbo. Now, the turbo can be carefully pulled from out of the manifold. It will be tough but you need to get the turbine wheel out and around the manifold wall. The charge pipe will still be connected to the turbo and will give you some resistance, but fight it well.
Now you have a better chance to get to those (2) 8mm bolts that hold the oil return line in. This is where skill is needed. I reccomend using a small 8mm socket wrench and alot of patience. They will come off after making small movements with the wrench and cursing up and down. There is not much room for wrenching so this will take awhile. Also, there is a paper gasket that will probably rip when you remove it but do your best to try to keep it in one piece, you'll need it later.
Now you can use a 8mm socket wrench and can loosen up the clamp that holds the charge pipe to the turbo. After that, be sure to remove the two vaccume lines on the right side of the turbo and you'll be able to pull the turbo up and out. Again be carefull of the turbine wheel, you don't want to damage the fins.
Now you can sit back and can admire the difference between your E1 (or E2/SST turbo) and your stocker. Now is a good time to take a brake and put back another beer or two because the install is even a bigger bitch . Now is also a good time to swap your vaccume fittings and blow off valve or block off plate. Remember when you have to add a new BOV and you had to deal with the DREADED 3rd bolt. You guys all know what I'm talking about. Well now with the turbo out, changing the BOV is a sinch. At this point, I was sitting back thinking about that 3rd bolt nightmare that I had changed less then a year ago. Well after this job, the 3rd bolt nightmare was about as bad as playing naked twister with the college cheerleading team (minus the dudes that throw the girls). I will NEVER complaint about that 3rd bolt again.
INSTALL TIME...
For the install, the directions say to first install the turbo into the manifold. I say no way. I recomend to first connect the oil return line to the bottom of the turbo again using your 8mm short box wrench and alot of skill. You'll never get the bolts mounted with the turbo installed in the manifold first. I have no idea how anyone does it and if you can do it, then your a better man than me. Now if you have salvaged the old gasket, lucky you. If you have a new one, then you were smart to make the purschase in advance. If your like me, you ended up using gasket maker and will probably leak in the future .
Next, you can now follow the instructions and install the turbo into the manifold. Don't forget the washer ring and remember to align the fitment pin. Also be careful with your turbine wheel, you wouldn't want to bend a fin smashing it into the manifold. Now with the turbo in place, put the mounting clamp back on and lock it in place. I know what your thinking. The rubber housing on the charge pipe is not lined up with the turbo. You are absolutly correct.
After countless hours of trying to get the housing on, I ended up using my large flat head screwdriver. Your going to have to use the flat head screwdriver like a spatula and run it around the outside of the turbo while the driver is in the inside of the rubber housing. Use it like a shoe horn if you will. It will be tough but it will work and you will get the charge pipe housing around the bottom of the turbo. Those last two steps took the longest and sucked big ones, but in the end I prevailed and so will you .
Now reinstall the bottom coolant return line. Remeber to reuse the old washers and take your time. Again the best tool is your 16mm short box wrench and alot of patience. Don't over tighten, the bolt is hollow.
Next is the top coolant in line. Make sure the the notch in the bottom line is facing straight up, use a mirror to check. If it is not straight up, you'll never get the top line to notch in and the bolt won't thread correctly. You'll be pissed as hell and it will suck. Again break out that short 16mm box wrench and your good to go. Don't over tighten, but make sure it is snug and again remember the bolt is hollow.
Now for the oil feed line. This one is pretty easy. Make sure to reuse the washers and use either a 16mm box or socket wrench.
Now reinstall your intake pipe and make sure that both vaccume lines on the right side of the turbo are installed and zip tied.
For the final step, hook up you negative battery terminal and check all lines. Reinstall you coil pack but do not connect the wire harness. Turn the ignition over with the coil pack disconnected to prime your turbo with oil. Next add coolant to recover what was lost during the swap. Then reconnect the coil pack and start the engine. Now check for leaks before taking off.
Congrats, you just swapped the turbo . I hope this helps and keeps you from having to spend 5 hours like I did on a job that should take no more then 2.5 hours. If this helps even one person than I did my job. Good luck with your new turbo whether it be an E1, E2, SST, ported stocker, or just another stocker. Also give yourself a big thumbs up for a job well done and the addition of a new kick ass turbo .
Brake in procedure for the SS turbo and manifold.
3 heat cycles for the manifold to "set" the ceramic (do not jump on it or get on the dyno right away). The turbo will need at least 3 heat cycles to make sure that all the cooling and oil pockets have ran free of the turbo and motor. The cooling has been some what of an issue so make 100% sure that all the air is out of the system before you go around boosting the turbo (it will last much longer).
PTP break in for your SS turbo.
Welcome to adding more power to your car. We have included a break in procedure for the SS turbo so it will have a long and happy life.
First remove old turbo and clean all the lines and surrounding area from dirt and debris. This step is very important since any little spec of dirt or sand can damage your turbo bearings.
Now the install has to be free of any damage to the exhaust wheel so be very careful when you install it into the manifold. Its very easy to chip a wheel or bend the shaft if you hit the wall of the exhaust manifold during the install. Now don’t forget the silver spacer/washer that came off your stock unit. That spacer keeps the turbo sealed to the exhaust manifold as well as keeping the exhaust wheel from hitting the inside of the manifold/scroll area.
Start up: this is where a lot of people mess up. You have to make sure that there is oil going to the turbo before starting the car. Procedures is,
1. make sure all lines are tight and leak free
2. check oil and coolant levels
3. un-hook coil connector (no spark to plugs)
4. now crank the car over for 5 seconds for 3 intervals
5. check for leaks
6. crank car over for 10 seconds for 2 intervals
7. check for leak
8. hook up coil
9. have someone hold then end of the compressor wheel (at the tip not the wheel it self) to keep it from turning. Do not use a socket on the nut, on the end of the compressor wheel. If that nut moves the warranty will be voided.
10. start car and hold compressor wheel for 15 seconds while the system primes. DO NOT FOR ANY REASON REV THE MOTOR!!!
11. release the compressor wheel and let the car run for 2 minutes
12. shut down car and check for leaks
13. time to go drive it, start car and take 5 mile no boost trip. Head home and check for leaks
14. after all leak checks have been done its time to start the 3 heat cycles
15. drive it 3 heat cycles (full hot to full cool on the temp gauge) before full boost applications. Some light boosting is ok during this time but WOT speed runs could create a problem with the turbo.
Now your ready to start boosting. We have ran the SS turbo to 32 PSI so far by following these directions and the turbo continues to perform flawless. Make sure that you have fuel and are boost leak checked to the boost levels you plan on running and you will be very happy with the power and life of the turbo. Thanks.
In order to run the SS turbo you must have some very important things (to get the most out of it), they are.
Aftermarket WGA, we have 5 or 6 stage 2 cars running the SS turbo with stg 2 WGA and it seem that installing the aftermarket WGA and getting it off stock boost controll will add anywhere from 10 to 30 HP. Deffinitly a must do if you want the power out of the SS turbo.
Piggy back, this is almost a nessesity since the SS turbo has a different boost curve and delivers more air up top as well as boost you will need to tune it different then the stock turbo. You will also need a WB to monitor your AFR's for tuning with the piggy back.
Fuel, this is kind of a no brainer but I dont want you all to think that stage 2 will provide you with enough fuel. We ran a stg 2 car of of fuel at 22 psi of boost so it looks like WI or W/A injection may be nessasary to keep knock and add that little bit of protection if you are going to be running stg 2 injectors and higher boost. Stage 1 will most certainly run out of fuel so upgrading the injectors or going to a rising rate fuel system will be nessasary if you are running higher boost then stock stage 1.
Now a good way to read knock and or timing will get you your best tune, so get a gauge that reads them or a scan tool that can do the same thing.
More will be added as we get the tuning done on the SS turbo.
Last night I went to the track.
Stage 2 w/toys, SST V1, 3" 02,3"downpipe w/ my cutout,
225/ 15 DR's, 55 T body, PTP WG actuator
3 gallons of 110 octane, HOM held no problem
1st pass, DAB 0, HOM off( just to get the fuel mixed)
2.07 60'
13.83@95
2nd pass, DAB 0, HOM on
2.01 60'
13.46@102
3rd pass, DAB 2, HOM on
2.16 60' ( bogged bad)
13.28@105
4th pass, DAB 3, HOM on
1.95 60'
12.90@ 104
Last year my best with Stage 2 w/o toys and stock turbo w/o the 3" 02 was 13.36@104,
Last night I went to the track.
Stage 2 w/toys, SST V1, 3" 02,3"downpipe w/ my cutout,
225/ 15 DR's, 55 T body, PTP WG actuator
3 gallons of 110 octane, HOM held no problem
1st pass, DAB 0, HOM off( just to get the fuel mixed)
2.07 60'
13.83@95
2nd pass, DAB 0, HOM on
2.01 60'
13.46@102
3rd pass, DAB 2, HOM on
2.16 60' ( bogged bad)
13.28@105
4th pass, DAB 3, HOM on
1.95 60'
12.90@ 104
Last year my best with Stage 2 w/o toys and stock turbo w/o the 3" 02 was 13.36@104,
Get a good FMIC and you should see the MPH and ET pick up a bit more. Your MPH for sure.
well my car is leaning out to a 11.0 AFR after 5k on a cool night here
as a matter of fact what do ya know i have a VIDEO http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC0c7eOb5wQ
this is at 25 falling to 20 according to the boost guage the map sensor is saying only like 23psi
this is with no tune and no HOM
internal wg
heres a vid of my car completely untuned out of hom
Last night I went to the track.
Stage 2 w/toys, SST V1, 3" 02,3"downpipe w/ my cutout,
225/ 15 DR's, 55 T body, PTP WG actuator
3 gallons of 110 octane, HOM held no problem
1st pass, DAB 0, HOM off( just to get the fuel mixed)
2.07 60'
13.83@95
2nd pass, DAB 0, HOM on
2.01 60'
13.46@102
3rd pass, DAB 2, HOM on
2.16 60' ( bogged bad)
13.28@105
4th pass, DAB 3, HOM on
1.95 60'
12.90@ 104
Last year my best with Stage 2 w/o toys and stock turbo w/o the 3" 02 was 13.36@104,
you need to raise the boost more, your car has an awsome setup
__________________
( )
12.8@106 Mods: Mopar stage 2 no toys, aeromtive FPR set at 52 psi, Mpx intercooler, cut off, mopar b.o.v., carbon fiber hood, carbon trunk, micky t slicks,180 thermo stat + fan mod, turbo xs manual Bc, AEM UEGO wideband,Mpx 62 MM throttle body,mopar cold air, Greddy catch can, iradium spark plugs with MSD wires, Mopar air bag delet tray, Matrix LED speedomoter bulbs. stock turbo, no nitrous, pump gas.
SST V2
Intimidator Mani (one of the first ones to go out)
thermal turboback
S3 computer
s3 injectors/sensors
s3 Pump with /stock 58psi regulator
S2 Wga
car is all computer controlled boost. that night i ran it was spiking 18 falin to about 15-16 at redline. Running 104 octane unleaded. This run i got kicked out of HOM not long after i hit 3rd gear. It was pulling over 20 degrees of timing when i got booted out, the most timing i saw after it was kicked out was about 15 degrees o i was running oem tires and rims also
with a 2.4 60ft i ran a 13.6 @ 108 and the car was falling on its face as soon as the hom booted me out. I was getting kicked out cuuz i was too lean. i was seeing 12.8's on the afr gauge, with 8 knock counts. i should have popped in the 75 psi regulater and just ran it rich it would have porally run a lot better. John how do you feel about makin me a custom 65psi regulator. i need soemthing in the middle of 58 and 75 and ill be perfect.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Official SST time slip and dyno thread (everything thread)
)
Linear Mode
