I am sure the meth is working. As stated earlier the nozzle is close to the TB after the iat sensor. The pulls were not in hom.
you might want to try moving it close to the IC and if that dont work try a smaller nozzle like said before. That close to your head with that big of a nozzle your meth and water might not be atomizeing enough to really make a differance. You will get better atomization with smaller nozzles which would mean that it would mix with the air better its better to have 2 smaller nozzles than to have one huge one. I run a m3 close the IC and a m1 close to the TB good luck with it and i hope you get every thing worked out
im hopeing i can get on the dyno soon and help show what a SST is really capable of
dont question why, just go find a good intercooler.you will never make 300 on a stocker.5 minute cool down isnt enough time for the motor to cool down enough either if you are trying to hit a number.it was probably fat because it was heat soaked.135 intake temps is crazy high! 28* of timing is also very low for a hom map
x2
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Ok here's my input being my bread and butter is the stock turbo/big wheel type deals.
1. I would ditch the map clamp and get a NEO/Dtec with a return line. This alone will give much better timing, better fuel atomization, and makes tuning 100% easier. The spike and fall in the fuel curve is killing the top end power.
2. Stock intercooler has made near 300 before, if you were 290 range I would say the FMIC would help you get over 300 but not 33 HP. The flow of it is decent, it's the cooling properties that suck when you get tremendous EGT's from pushing the hell out of that turbo unit.
3. Stock airbox with the bigger wheel demanding more airflow is definately making a difference in the amount of power you are making. I would get an AGP or equivilant cold air, and hit the dyno again.
Puzzling that with water/meth your intake temps are so high. I would check the turbo to make sure the shaft play isnt there, and that the turbo is sound.
Also make sure you do the normal things, boost leak the car. Im not talking about a boost leak test up to 10 PSI and calling it good. I want you to crank it up and check for leaks 5 PSI at a time until the tester blows off. Yeah it can seem scary but it's a sound, it wont hurt you. A true boost leak test will hit 20+ PSI and show a SHIT TON of stuff you wouldnt see before. If you dont do it this way you might as well put your mouth on it and hope that it shows something.
If you're going to do 5 minutes between runs you better have you and a friend with full bottles of water spraying all the piping, FMIC, and other heated objects down. It just isnt enough time as Jay said, and you wont see efficient pass to pass numbers. Figure if you were on the street you would have MUCH better cooling on the intercooler, and you wont see the same characteristics on the dyno unless you take the necessary means to get it that way.
Check the turbo, that would be the first problem I'd look for. The V2's are better, I just installed one and had much better results. If it's not the turbo then you have the power there you just need to find it. Boost leaks, better tuning equipment, and just a little TLC. Stock turbos and big wheels are a bit tougher to get the power from vs a big turbo. It takes finesse. If your turbo is sound then just spend some time on it. You will be impressed with how easily 50 HP can come if you just play with it a bit.
Last edited by FullyBuiltJosh : 05-13-2007 at 03:47 PM.
Shit i dynoed 274 315tq with just the mods in my sig, to sum up, wg, boost controller set to 18psi, coolingmist meth/water 75/25, and a 3 inch ptp downpipe with no boost leaks.
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2004 Flame Red SRT-4 Mods:
Magnacore 7.5 MM plug wires - R.I.P.P. Mods Check Valve - AGP Dogbone motor mounts - AGP Transmission Mount - PT Performance wastegate - PTP 3inch Downpipe - Hallman Professional MBC - Exhaust Depot Hot side pipe - JMB UPP with HKS - CoolingMist Methanol/Water kit - SAFC II and tach driver - Hotchkis Springs - NGK AFX Wideband - 274hp/315tq @ 18psi
It's either a turbo issue, or if it's not then I would suggest looking into normal turbo car things like listed above. If the turbo is good the power is there, just find it
Shit i dynoed 274 315tq with just the mods in my sig, to sum up, wg, boost controller set to 18psi, coolingmist meth/water 75/25, and a 3 inch ptp downpipe with no boost leaks.
u made 1 more hp and 22 less tq than me and ALL I HAD was s1 s2 wg 18psi to 15ish psi 3 in d pipe into stock exhaust.. meth and everything else stock.. (i had a map clamp it was broken i know this bc i make 273.5hp, 273.3hp, 5 times in a roll adjusting the clamp inbetween) with NO TIME FOR THE INTERCOOLER TO COOL DOWN..... GOTTA LOVE METHANOL
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Well I just read all of this and yes I think there is something up with the car of the turbo. Problem being, if it was the turbo it would have destroyed itself in the first 5 minutes of running, not over time. The intercooler thing is odd but I have seen several hit 300 WHP on the stock intercooler and the SST so no worries there. Now with the power levels being so low I have to ask what boost gauge you have, was the WI working, and how does it feel on the street? If if feels faster on the street then the dyno could be off (just tring to figure it out). So with that said the last thing I would check is a compression test and a leak down test. I have seen 2 cars blow the head gasket and that will kill power. If you have any reservations about it being the turbo send it back and I will have it checked out.
i think your on to something, i would like to have mine checked to see if there is something wrong with it
Jose (SRTPWR41) is on the first gen SST. im not sure what # it was. i think he has over 15k miles on it with not a single problem.
he put down 330Hp and 420Tq with it and stage 2 with Toys. other mods are
Stage 2 with Toys
DO W/I
CM Stage 4 clutch/Fw
Modded Mopar exhaust Single exit
255 walbro HF fuel pump
Apexi SAFC ll / MSD Tach adapter
PTP SST v.1
PTP Modded exhaust manifold
PTP WGA spiking 24/holding 20ish PCM controlled boost
PTP 3" o2 housing
PTP RACE Big FMIC
PTP RACE Hard pipes with HKS BOV
PTP Check Vlave
PTP Wires with NGK 4306 plugs
PTP FPR
added after Dyno
PTP 60mm billet TB
PTP ported ITM
Well I just read all of this and yes I think there is something up with the car of the turbo. Problem being, if it was the turbo it would have destroyed itself in the first 5 minutes of running, not over time. The intercooler thing is odd but I have seen several hit 300 WHP on the stock intercooler and the SST so no worries there. Now with the power levels being so low I have to ask what boost gauge you have, was the WI working, and how does it feel on the street? If if feels faster on the street then the dyno could be off (just tring to figure it out). So with that said the last thing I would check is a compression test and a leak down test. I have seen 2 cars blow the head gasket and that will kill power. If you have any reservations about it being the turbo send it back and I will have it checked out.
I would prefer to check everything out before i start pulling parts. I dont have the tools to do a compression/leak down. Is this something a local mechanic can do?
Well I just read all of this and yes I think there is something up with the car of the turbo. Problem being, if it was the turbo it would have destroyed itself in the first 5 minutes of running, not over time. The intercooler thing is odd but I have seen several hit 300 WHP on the stock intercooler and the SST so no worries there. Now with the power levels being so low I have to ask what boost gauge you have, was the WI working, and how does it feel on the street? If if feels faster on the street then the dyno could be off (just tring to figure it out). So with that said the last thing I would check is a compression test and a leak down test. I have seen 2 cars blow the head gasket and that will kill power. If you have any reservations about it being the turbo send it back and I will have it checked out.
I would prefer to check everything out before i start pulling parts. I dont have the tools to do a compression/leak down. Is this something a local mechanic can do?
Yes it is. you can also get the needed tools to do this from a SEARS/auto parts store if needed that is.
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somethings not right good luck finding it out
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