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Wideband FAILSAFE Gauge

31K views 195 replies 31 participants last post by  ziggo0 
#1 · (Edited)
AEM Performance Electronics Wideband Air Fuel Failsafe Gauge - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics
ill post all my info here so you dont have to scroll thru the whole thread....


so the mail hasnt past since thrusday, i was suppose get get my tach adapter. but its ok
here is alil screen shot of the data viewer.....
first picture are seperate rpm(zero out) boost and afr,
second photo they are together.... either way is ez to do...


in the picture above(both as they the same log just different views) i 2 stepped you can see the boost raise to about 5 psi and the afr go lean....... havent done any road logs yet i want to get the rpm working first

Rpm working. No tach driver needed



here are some videos of my aem afr fs





Final video with all working



i also attached the picture incase you wanna view them bigger...

Oscilloscope Text Technology Electronic device Font

Oscilloscope Text Technology Electronic device Font

Text Font Technology Screenshot Multimedia software


Follow this to hook up the WB part.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2883954

1 to kill the engine you will have to cut the green wire going to ignition coil, and put it on a relay and make the kill switch activate the relay to cut spark.(better yet cut the wire going into the 101 plug that will kill spark and fuel..)

coil fused positive
coil FS grd(send grnd to kill)
NO leave open
NC green wire to igniton
COM grn wire coming from pcm



2 to cut boost and using a mbc sorry you cant(well you can ill do a diagram on how to)

for this you wouldnt need to T into the line going to the bc from turbo in to a solenoid
then on the boost line leavin the bc you want to put a check valve to only allow boost to go toward the wg
then you T into the line after the cv closer to the wg.
now the two lines you just T need to go into a soleniod(can be stock one thats not being used.. but if you use that you will nee to cap the NC ling and run the other two lines to the normall open line)
then hook ones side the coil to postive(ignition on) the other side to the FS (send ground to kill)

what this will do is bi pass the bc if lean or rich condition happens and only allow wg boost.. ill draw it....(give me time)

to cut boost and using pcm boost you will need a resistor and a relay.



3 to cut boost using a e boost controller the easiest way...



if you boost controller uses the positive to open and close the solenoid just remove the ground and use the AEM FS kill wire. check the ohms of the solenoid must be less than 1.5 amp
to find amps volt/ohms = amp 13.8volt / 33 ohms = .49 amps

if not well. you a relay to cut the ground going to it....
 
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#156 ·
No I did not hook up RPM.

Just checked out the log from a few hours ago. It cut only to 17psi. Another run 13.5 psi and crept up to 15.5psi.

The ground for my gauges and boost box are all at the same location by the fuse box. I don't think they'd interfere with each other.
 
#159 · (Edited)
Ok I picked up a relay and my research shows I need to hook it up to the solenoid as follows:

30 - GND on chassis or neg on battery terminal
85 -12v w/ fuse hooked up to battery
86 - Low side output (blue wire) from AEM gauge
87a - GND wire on factory boost solenoid
87 - empty

Go into the AEM failsafe software and set the trigger to "On when alarm is triggered".
 
#160 ·
Are u using pcm boost?

U might get s cel if it triggers a fail safe

I would use a relay with 2 sets contacts

Cut both the pos and neg of the solenoid. Then ull need to put a resistor on the normally opens so the pcm thinks it still plugged to the solenoid this way u get no cel

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#164 · (Edited)
Try setting reset time to 10 secs

A relay won't change anything. Full be turning off and on a relay instead of the soleniod.

Relay is used to carry a bigger load than a pc board is capable of.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#168 ·
Got a new problem. In near or below freezing temps, my gauge will not start up. It will show the aem logo for second then nothing. If the car warms up and restart it again, it will work as usual. Has anyone had this problem with any Aem gauges in cold weather?

Tried to contact aem tech but no replies through email.
 
#169 ·
I never had any issues with My regular Aem Wideband. I haven't installed the Fail safe yet, Hopefully it's just an isolated issue?
 
#175 ·
I Just got mine in the mail yesterday, car is getting a massive electrical overhaul and when under got his I was really really interested in it - so this season I figured Id buy one. Cant wait to get it up and running
 
#176 ·
Yea mines still sitting BNIB, Ill get it mounted and wired up once I finish my hvac bezel and dual stock pods
 
#177 ·
Been following that - should look damn good when done.

I ordered a 3rd gauge pod to go the right of the stock boost gauge, ill be putting fuel pressure in that one and to the left of it the failsafe will replace my aem wideband.
 
#178 ·
Yea, I should be doing some work sanding on it right now. But it's beer thirty.
 
#182 · (Edited)
I tried a while back To cut spark and it wasn't working.. I didn't really give it much effort as i was rushed on it.
But I wouldn't use it to trigger wot box... u would just want to cut ignition altogether.

But in theory you would cut the green and orange wire by adding a NC relay in that line and using the fail safe to lift the positive from coil.
 
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