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Old 10-26-2003, 05:26 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Cali, does your Blitz EBC have a peak hold feature?
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:35 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by drolander
Cali, I have the Greddy e-01 EBC. But I also have the AGP WGA and it's fully preloaded. With the EBC turned off, my boost from just the WGA jumped from 14.7 to 15.6. And with the EBC on in the Hi position, it jumped from 18.3 to 20.5. (Obviously, I turned it down when I saw this. )


Ah, I think I should turn off the BC and see what my base is now. I know my base without the BC is 10PSI.
The blitz has a peak hold , but the thing is it is setup as a ratio, and not a set PSI level.
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:36 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Thats the thing. I really don't think anyone knows what the TIP is used for being its with stage 0, 1 or any.

Thanx
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Old 10-26-2003, 08:40 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by drolander
Cali, I have the Greddy e-01 EBC. But I also have the AGP WGA and it's fully preloaded. With the EBC turned off, my boost from just the WGA jumped from 14.7 to 15.6. And with the EBC on in the Hi position, it jumped from 18.3 to 20.5. (Obviously, I turned it down when I saw this. )



this is a very good thing.
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Old 10-26-2003, 11:26 PM   #155 (permalink)
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i did the green line set up and capped the intake boost leak . got 17psi just over 2k the dropped to 15 to 15.5 at redline. 20 miles later 16psi dropping to 15psi to red line . so i adjust 3 turns to the passenger side i lost boost goes to 14.5 at 2k and never moves. did i turn it to far or do i need to screw the bolt that connects the rod to the wastegate back as close to the actuator as possible. if that make sense if not i pushed the waste gate lever on the manafold to the left i thought that turned up the boost thanks and sorry if i confused anybody
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Old 10-26-2003, 11:33 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Pretty sure flapper arm is supposed to be all the way to the right when you set the length of the arm on the AGP (should slide right on when you get it the right lenght by turning the rod arm end just rigth). NIVO's instructions say all the way toward drivers side. Quick question. What do you mean "capped the intake boost leak"?
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Old 10-27-2003, 11:42 AM   #157 (permalink)
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ok, i'm at stage zero, have 800 miles on the car. i ran 11 lbs of boost at wot. at idle the boost guage read -22. i blocked off the vaccum line to the air box and plugged the nipple. i now idle at -18 on the boost guage and hit 12.5 lbs of boost at wot. nice little pick up with this mod. thanks guys!
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:28 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Psi-Fi Motorsports
Hmn well there is always quicker response at the compressor, the compressor generally has a pound or 2 more boost than the manifold (pressure drop), and the manifold is after the throttle body. The manifold will have high vacuume when the throttle is shut while the pressure plumbing will have high pressures @ throttle shut. You need a reference from both of these signals in order for the BPV/BOV to function.

I am not sure what you are referring to. The manual boost controller should alway get it's source directly from the compressor housing.

Curious, PSI what if you tee off the manifold and the compressor housing? Both lines feeding to the MBC.
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:33 PM   #159 (permalink)
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It is redundant also you better have a check vavle in there or you will have a vacuume leak (basically bypassing the throttle body with a vacuume/boost source is not good). Not to mention that the compressor is the only source for boost controller signal. It has no pressure drop and is instantanious.
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:47 PM   #160 (permalink)
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Looks like I need to redo my MBC routing then, I'll have to re-dyno and do some test driving, see if where the difference is.
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Old 10-27-2003, 03:05 PM   #161 (permalink)
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One more question for now hehe

Now I only drilled one nipple in the compressor housing way back when. Its where the green line would have went. Would that make any differnce vs going where the blue line would have went?

I really would hate to pull the turbo off just to drill a new nipple in the outlet if the difference is slight
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Old 10-27-2003, 05:49 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Im in the process of redoing all the vacume lines (pulled the whole stock system out to play around with it)

verified that the line going to the airbox is indeed a huge boost leak!

it looks like psi-fi has the "blue line" going right into a check valve...so it's effectivly blocked off. Im going to remove the nipple on the stock turbo and block the hole with a brass fitting.
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Old 10-28-2003, 10:44 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Well butt dyno says boost hits harder pulling the source off the turbo.

thanks for the thread.
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:59 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Just took our srt4 out for a spin with redone vac lines. def spools up faster, hits a little harder. gained over 1lb of boost with same profec settings.
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Old 10-29-2003, 06:14 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Sounds like some nice good 'ol tuning. Any pics or how-to steps to post???
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