This is how we rerouted our vacuume lines with the Mopar Stg1 setup. You will notice that we only have the TIP solenoid hooked up. The lines going to the other solenoids I removed all together. To be honest I an pretty sure that we don't even need the Tip vacuume lines either.
The idea here is that I removed all the unneccesary vaccume lines that are no longer in use with the Mopar Stg1/MBC setup.
One suggestion, you may want to try the Surge Valve source from the stock setup.
I have tired it your way, and it blows off all day. Using it via stock solenoid, it blows off very fast! and seals right back up!
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dole Smelly
Just for the record, the torque setting for the oil drain plug is 20 ft-lbs, not infinity.
Originally posted by cali One suggestion, you may want to try the Surge Valve source from the stock setup.
I have tired it your way, and it blows off all day. Using it via stock solenoid, it blows off very fast! and seals right back up!
You do it via the stock solenoid it will also blow off to control boost. This way allows you to run more boost.
Originally posted by Psi-Fi Motorsports You do it via the stock solenoid it will also blow off to control boost. This way allows you to run more boost.
Have you tried?
I too used to think your way.....try it and find out. I know it works better the stock way with Stage 1. I know you gusy have stage one.
Yes we have tried with the BPV solenoid hooked up and the ECU would bleed off boost above 17 psi. The BPV still works as it should with it hooked up this way. You have a boost reference on one side of the valve and a boost referece from after the throttle body. When the throttle body closes then you will have a heavy vacuume on one side of the valve and boost on the other. This will force the valve open and bypass the pressure. Obviously this meathod works for us, given the performance we have shown with the car. If we had slow response and boost leaks then we wouldn't run the times that we have. All of this was with the stock BPV.
nice. but i have a few questions:
1. is stg1 like stock where the boost solenoid needs to see boost? (or did bypassing them like you did remedy that)
2. where does the line with the check valve go to the turbo? and which way does that particular check valve go? (obviously the brake booster needs the vacuum so it is self explanitory)
3. are you noticing timing being pulled?
4. do you need a guinnea pig for your piggyback in california?
Originally posted by Psi-Fi Motorsports Yes we have tried with the BPV solenoid hooked up and the ECU would bleed off boost above 17 psi. The BPV still works as it should with it hooked up this way. You have a boost reference on one side of the valve and a boost referece from after the throttle body. When the throttle body closes then you will have a heavy vacuume on one side of the valve and boost on the other. This will force the valve open and bypass the pressure. Obviously this meathod works for us, given the performance we have shown with the car. If we had slow response and boost leaks then we wouldn't run the times that we have. All of this was with the stock BPV.
You know what, you're right. You have a drag car, and the effects of the slow leak are nominal especially when youre WOT most of the time.
For a daily driver, it is better using the stock lines.
Edit: And several of us (Maybe 5?) dynoed 2 weeks ago with stock routing over 19PSI without any leaking.
Originally posted by cali You know what, you're right. You have a drag car, and the effects of the slow leak are nominal especially when youre WOT most of the time.
For a daily driver, it is better using the stock lines.
Edit: And several of us (Maybe 5?) dynoed 2 weeks ago with stock routing over 19PSI without any leaking.
hmm, so enough people finally showed you evidence that stock is better for the bov one of the few, the proud, the informed
using the stock line works fine for me (w/ just a new WGA).
stock surge blows off real fast.
random aside - anyone know where to get a replacement for one of the bolts that hold the WGA to the turbo? mine fell into the brace underneath/behind the engine... can't get it out.
(don't worry I have it bolted on... just not with the correct bolt)
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