if you can get the STT to work i think it will be a great setup. the smaller turbo will be great with its fast spool up time to give you power before the bigger turbo starts to spool and then after that the bigger turbo takes over. of course you would have to have two turbos that are pretty much complete opposites of one another and a really high rev limit. good luck with the project.
If it does work, I will have to post alot of pictures of the manifold that drives the two.
In theory, it should. I designed the manifold so that no power would be taken from the large turbo to feed the smaller one. The large turbo is kept spinning to prevent that surge of power from the changeover. The most difficult part is keeping the pressurized air from backflowing in the wrong direction. The rest is up to timing the Bypass Valve Actuators.
if you can get the STT to work i think it will be a great setup. the smaller turbo will be great with its fast spool up time to give you power before the bigger turbo starts to spool and then after that the bigger turbo takes over. of course you would have to have two turbos that are pretty much complete opposites of one another and a really high rev limit. good luck with the project.
The two turbochargers I chose are the GT3071R and the GT2252. The reason for the GT3071R is because I got the ATP stage 3 kit when it first came out. I chose the GT2252 because it can handle the power where I need it. I think the turbo will work better with this than the GT2554R, mostly because the Journal bearing can handle more incoming psi and has a quicker response. I would never dream of using it by itself, but with help, sure.
Here you can see the difference.
The rev limit may not be an issue, but if it is, my head was CNC ported, Stage 5 ported, port matched and fitted with 2mm larger exhaust and 1.5mm larger intake valves, Titanium springs and specially cut Cams for my car and it's purpose.
Theres no way in hell you're gonna spend 20k on just the turbo setup. Yeah maybe on a full build including the turbo setup and fuel system, plus other odd and ends, but not 20k alone on the part that is gonna be the failure.
Many of us on here have 20k in parts alone, so you're not in a league of your own like you may think. Only difference is, most of us have spent the money wisely, if you can even call spending 20k+ on car parts wise.
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Precision 6057@30psi on pump
8.50@87 on 10psi w/2.0 60 ft (wg pressure on 30 psi tune, no 2 step)
If it does work, I will have to post alot of pictures of the manifold that drives the two.
In theory, it should. I designed the manifold so that no power would be taken from the large turbo to feed the smaller one. The large turbo is kept spinning to prevent that surge of power from the changeover. The most difficult part is keeping the pressurized air from backflowing in the wrong direction. The rest is up to timing the Bypass Valve Actuators.
the only foreseable problem that i can think of is overspinning the smaller turbo after it is past its useability if you are fully going to take advantage of the bigger turbo and raise the revs to at least 8500. the smaller turbo that you have decided to use is out of breath at about 4500rpm so anything past that and you are creating unnecessary wear on that turbo's bearing, ultimately resulting in failure later on. you would need some way of having an rpm actuated block off, or exhaust dump that wouldn't sacrifice the exhuast needed to drive the larger turbo. the only way i can see it happening is if you had an external style wg for the smaller turbo that would dump back into the exhaust before the larger turbo to prevent from losing the driving exhaust gas, and even then you might run into turbulance problems and have difficulty getting the larger one to spool.
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E1 turbo, PTP pnp e-mani, FM wga, 3" O2, 3" DP, 2.5 DP back exhaust, full 2.5" IC piping, Boomba BOV w/13psi spring, AEM SRI, NGK plugs, MSD 8.5mm wires, AEM uego WB, Spearco DFFMIC, race motor mount inserts, ACT 6 puck, Maddog 80% sts;
best dyno 307whp/301wtq @ 19psi
13.676 @ 106 on 20spike, 16-17 redline.stocker
13.45 @ 103 ~18psi spike, 16 hold. pcm boost/stock WG E1 at ~23psi 13.43 @ 111.65 w/non pcm boost(can't launch/no driver mod ftl)
I see I'm going to have to publish the list again.
Quote: Originally Posted by turbojonsrt4
Theres no way in hell you're gonna spend 20k on just the turbo setup. Yeah maybe on a full build including the turbo setup and fuel system, plus other odd and ends, but not 20k alone on the part that is gonna be the failure.
_________________________________________ Engine
JE Forged Pistons 8.5:1 Compression, 88mm bore
Brian Crower H-Beam Connecting Rods
Adjustable Cam Gears
Hydrolic Lash Adjusters
Ported, polished and ceramic coated intake manifold
CNC ported & polished cylinder Head (Stage 5)
Custom cut Brian Crower camshafts
Garrett GT3071R Ball Bearing Turbocharger
Tial 44mm Wastegate
62mm Throttle Body
ARP bolts and studs (All engine fasteners)
Steel braided hoses and fasteners (All tubes and hoses under 1" thick)
Fuel and Exhaust
RC Engineering 1000 cc Fuel Injectors Dual Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pumps
7/8" Fuel Rail and fuel pressure regulator
4 inch Block and Bar Intercooler
Greddy RS Blow off valve
Tig Welded Mandrel-bent aluminum charge pipes
Tig welded Mandrel bent aluminum intake pipe
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust pipes
Quicktime Performance Electronic Exhaust cutout
Tubular turbo exhaust manifold
Electronics and Management
AEM Engine Management System
Boost control w/ gauge and 3.5 bar MAP
Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio gauge w/Bosch O2 Sensor
UEGO controller
AEM Fuel pressure gauge
MSD Ignition w/ 8.5mm wires and NGK plugs
Chemical injection
Direct port nitrous oxide system
FJO Racing progressive Mini Nitrous Controller
Cold Fusion 20 pound Nitrous Oxide Bottle
CO2 Intercooler Sprayer w/ 10 pound NX tank
Suspension & Driveline
TEIN Super Street Suspension
Vibrant Performance Strut Bars
Prothane motor mount inserts
AGP Hard Transaxle mount
Drive Shaft Shop racing axles
Stage 3+ Clutch
Drilled and slotted rotors
Enkei FD-05 wheels (7.5 X 18 inch)
Goodyear F1 AS 225-40Z-R18 Performance tires
________________________________________
Ok, everything listed above, I have purchased already, most of which have been on my car for awhile. This is not counting the cost of gaskets, paint and vinyls I have either had or have on my car now. If you check these items out, the price comes to about $21,000 for everything.
Once I start putting it all back together, I will highlight the aftermarket parts.
The money I spent on the pipes, flanges, actuators, valves and another turbo for the STT, only come to about... ...$1,500.
Can you PLEASE post some pics, so I can rest assured this isn't some big hoax?
Oh, believe me, it is not.
I will see what pics I have on the internet and such, but my motherboard burned out a month ago and I am going home next week. Plus My Hard Drive is in Kuwait.
I will see if I can get my wife to send them here to me so I can post them.
If it helps your assurance, I am away from my stuff because I was evacuated to see an Optimologist. This was because I was grinding the pipe I welded for the primary down pipe and a piece of metal shot under my safety glasses and stuck in my cornia.
heres my take on this whole build (i realize you already mentioned you dont care about opinions but what the hell)
I dont care if you spend 20k or 50k thats your own car frenzy sickness bug
However, I dont think your engine build is any where near up to par with the "potential" power output of a STT + nitrous. I dont even think its up to par just to the TT itself. IF, and i mean IF, this thing were to actually come together and work as planned, you are easily in the 550whp + club but in need of some serious RPM ranges to get to the powerband (8.5k sounds about right). I think you are in need of a lighter rod (I beams) and pistons (JE's are pretty heavy off the shelf) with an upgraded crank (at least ion and one that is better weight matched from the get go to the lightened assembly, you shouldnt be hacking away at the crank to get it balanced you will have a failure).
I also dont see an upgraded head gasket in there, I hope to god you have one, you are going to need some serious sealing ability to hold this together. You mention ARP fasteners...hopefully you got some upgraded head nuts not the standards, the standard APR head nuts are too small and will fail. The rod bolts, hopefully you got 625's, if not, dont plan to rev much above 7k without risking a failure.
Just a few things that I think will ultimately make what COULD be end up NOT being. It will be a ticking time bomb and wont make the power you want if held back by these things.
Just a few things that I think will ultimately make what COULD be end up NOT being. It will be a ticking time bomb and wont make the power you want if held back by these things.
I have looked into most of these areas.
My gaskets are definitely upgraded, my Crank is getting balanced and I'm still waiting for Werks to get a good run on the Transaxles. Other than that, all very good advice. Most of which I heard, but good.
I do not mind these comments, its the others that bug be. Honestly, if I wanted a car like someone elses, I would have someone else build it for me.
The attached picture was sent nearly 1 1/2 months ago. Yes, it is dirty and crude and yes, it has holes in it. It wasn't finished then and it isn't finished now.
I actually moved the wastegate from the pictured location.
The 2 inch bypass valve is set just above the T3 plate. (not shown)
I don't know why there's so much cracking on this guy. He's into this project for the project itself, and to get some answers. A pursuit of knowledge more than a pursuit of "Mine's faster/better than yours". And who the hell care how much money this guy spends on his build...it's his freaking money and car. Honestly, I can't wait to see how this turns out (win or fail), because I've never read about anyone doing this. To me, there is certainly something to be said for having a one-of-a-kind vehicle, and this is it.
I think the constructive suggestions (like those of the clutch etc) are what we need more of. We should want this guy to succeed.
Good luck with the build, I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Whiskers!
Unapologetic Optimist
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2003 One-Legged Dog:
Ported Turbo, Mopar CAI, Perrin Adjustable Short-throw, Ported TB, 180 t-stat, 3" O2 Housing, Diablosport, Greddy CC, Maxxfab SEE, Godspeed FMIC, S1 Injectors, Sportlines, MSD Wires, PTP Charge Pipe and a boost gauge that actually works. Still need some freaking tint
I think the constructive suggestions (like those of the clutch etc) are what we need more of. We should want this guy to succeed.
Good luck with the build, I can't wait to see how it turns out.
Whiskers!
Unapologetic Optimist
Thank you for the support. As stated, I don't know much about car building or mechanics, however, I am a quick learner. I originally started this post, because it was requested by several people. I figure there might be someone out there who wants to see something like this done. They just don't want to risk the money or the car.
As for you critics and part pushers. I really am keeping your suggestions in consideration. Unfortunately, I am not prepared to take someones word for it just yet. If my clutch does fail, and it might or might not, I will definitely consider getting a non-modular design, but I need more of a warm and fuzzy than I'm getting about South Bend right now.
I have my sources and they agree, SPEC had some serious issues, mostly with the fork, but the failure rate is no greater than of the compeditors. I believe someone with experience installing these specific parts should do it.
I'm certainly not qualified.
Out of curiosity, what is the going rate of building a racing machine out of a car these days. I don't mean a $3000 upgrade kit and a set of lowering springs. I mean a total Stage transition.
I haven't gotten all of my parts yet, but I have started pulling my car apart. After two days of cleaning my garage, playing with my children and making up for the last year, I've finally gotten going.
My children are eager to help, which makes it fun as well.
Here is my oldest removing the spoiler.
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If it does work
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