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Old 06-28-2009, 04:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Red Monster

As I had agreed, I am starting a thread based on the performance upgrades and modifications for my car. There are a few details I need to make clear first...

1. I never went to school to learn mechanics or automotive tuning.
2. That part of my brain that tells me when enough is enough, doesn't exist.
3. Everything I do is theoretical until complete
4. What works for me, might not work for you.
5. My goal is a street friendly, freak of automotive mechanics that my kids still ride in.
6. I might have more money than you.
7. I do not like import parts in my american car.

If you can learn something from this, then good. If not, then I'll try and enjoy the criticism.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Fastredcar4 View Post
As I had agreed, I am starting a thread based on the performance upgrades and modifications for my car. There are a few details I need to make clear first...

1. I never went to school to learn mechanics or automotive tuning.
2. That part of my brain that tells me when enough is enough, doesn't exist.
3. Everything I do is theoretical until complete
4. What works for me, might not work for you.
5. My goal is a street friendly, freak of automotive mechanics that my kids still ride in.
6. I might have more money than you.
7. I do not like import parts in my american car.

If you can learn something from this, then good. If not, then I'll try and enjoy the criticism.

8. E=MCsquared.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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You may be right, but you don't know me that well yet.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Default List of Modifications by category

Ok, Time to dish it out.

2004 Dodge SRT-4 (last owner was an idiot)

Engine
JE Forged Pistons 8.5:1 Compression, 88mm bore
Brian Crower H-Beam Connecting Rods
Stainless Steel Tubular Header
Ported, polished and ceramic coated intake manifold
CNC ported & polished cylinder Head
Custom cut Brian Crower camshafts
Garrett GT3071R Ball Bearing Turbocharger
Tial 44mm Wastegate
62mm Throttle Body
Held together by 90% ARP bolts and studs
Plumbed with 80% Steel braided hoses and tubes

Fuel and Exhaust
RC Engineering 1000 cc Fuel Injectors
Dual Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pumps
OBX Fuel Rail and fuel pressure regulator
4 inch Block and Bar Intercooler
Custom Welded Mandrel-bent pipes:
Intake & Downpipe: (DEEPSTAGE Motorsports)
Exhaust System: (Bobs Muffler in Killeen, TX)
Quicktime Performance Electronic Exhaust cutout

Electronics and Management
AEM Engine Management System
Boost control w/ gauge and 3.5 bar MAP
Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio gauge w/Bosch O2 Sensor
MSD Ignition w/ 8.5mm wires and NGK plugs

Chemical injection
Direct port nitrous oxide system
FJO Racing progressive Mini Nitrous Controller
Cold Fusion 20 pound Nitrous Oxide Bottle
CO2 Intercooler Sprayer w/ 10 pound NX tank

Suspension & Driveline
TEIN Super Street Suspension
Vibrant Performance Strut Bars
Prothane motor mount inserts
AGP Hard Transaxle mount
Drive Shaft Shop level 3 racing axles
Spec Clutch, stage 3+ with billet flywheel
Enkei FD-05 wheels (7.5 X 18 inch)
Goodyear F1 AS 225-40Z-R18 Performance tires

Exterior
OEM Paint (Flame Red)

Performance ratings, no, it's not done yet.
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Old 06-28-2009, 08:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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sounds nasty! you gonna keep that tiny turbo in there? i would think a 35r or a hta60 would really wake it up. i guess the 3071r is for 'street freakiness'? pics man!
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I will post pictures soon, but like I said, I am a bit OCD, I eve have to see a shrink. My Command Sergeant Major and Battalion Commander have taken quite an interest in it. The reason I say this is because my car has been a nonstop project since Feb 2008 and I have never taken it to a strip, simply because it is not done.

Truth be told, When I got the car, it had blown rings, a bad fuel pump, a jacked up engine and an AGP stage 2 kit, without the Air/fuel controller. If I send pics, they will be old.

As of now, my car is in pieces in my garage.

The GT3071R came with the ATP Stage 3 kit, which I bought before the GT3076R came with the kit.

My project now it to make a sequential twin turbo setup using the GT3071R and later a GT2554R. I have began construction and fabrication here and estimate it will take $1900.00 to convert to a true STT SRT-4 with 2 Garrett ball bearing turbos.

Please, if you have ANY questions about this, ask. I will be 100% honest with my work and mistakes. If anyone out there feels they want to chance this, I encourage you to be brave, do your homework and do not hesitate to ask for parts lists or design schematics.

My oldest son is promised this car, so when I get home in about 4 months, we will begin working, he is 13.
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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nice build but why didn't you get a strap kit?
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Confused

Now I'm confused, what is a strap kit?
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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what is the point of this thread?
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Where exactly are you at in TX?????
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default The point of this thread

I suppose there are three points. All of which are questions I had asked myself at one point, but a very good question. Other than It was asked why I do not make a thread on this project.

1. What is the most performance you can get out of the SRT-4 without killing it's street driveability?

2. Is it possible and how would you setup a Sequential Twin Turbo on a SRT-4?

3. Then of course any other questions any forum member would ask in my adventures of spending close to $20,000 on parts and upgrades, what worked, what didn't.

I just don't want others to make the same mistakes I made.

For example, I had NGK Iridium IX plugs in my car once, running 30+ pounds of boost and I snapped those little metal pieces off. I didn't notice until I began this project, saw the broken plugs, then the JE Forges pistons that looked like they were chipped away like garbage.

I would say, if you are running high boost with fancy plugs, just stick with the performance plugs, they hold up better.

I hope this answers your question, if not, I appreciate criticism.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by rfosgategt View Post
what is the point of this thread?

Seriously.

Quote: Originally Posted by Fastredcar4 View Post
I suppose there are three points. All of which are questions I had asked myself at one point, but a very good question. Other than It was asked why I do not make a thread on this project.

1. What is the most performance you can get out of the SRT-4 without killing it's street driveability?

2. Is it possible and how would you setup a Sequential Twin Turbo on a SRT-4?

3. Then of course any other questions any forum member would ask in my adventures of spending close to $20,000 on parts and upgrades, what worked, what didn't.

I just don't want others to make the same mistakes I made.

For example, I had NGK Iridium IX plugs in my car once, running 30+ pounds of boost and I snapped those little metal pieces off. I didn't notice until I began this project, saw the broken plugs, then the JE Forges pistons that looked like they were chipped away like garbage.

I would say, if you are running high boost with fancy plugs, just stick with the performance plugs, they hold up better.

I hope this answers your question, if not, I appreciate criticism.

1) you can push 500+ and still have a relatively streetable car. Just depends on what you're willing to tolerate.

2) Yup, use search for your answers.

3) 30 lbs. eh? Pump or race gas? Get some NGK 4306's.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sounds like a good build!
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Where in TX

Quote: Originally Posted by my_little_srt View Post
Where exactly are you at in TX?????


Well, I Live just outside of Fort Hood.
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Old 06-29-2009, 03:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Default plugs

I am not up to speed on numbers as much as names, but I used the V-power or NGK-R and they worked fine, however, like an idiot, I listened to someone who owns a speed shop and he suggested the Iridiums.

Wiggyx answered my questions with words, very nice.
So, I am going to try and pull it off.

A N/A car will drive at almost any range with optimal power, Cam timing, fuel velocity and gears mostly determine where in the RPM range it drives best at.

I think that I will post my information in sections, otherwise, it will be one giant post.

I've done all the homework and research I can think of. If I have questions, I will ask.
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