(Q/A thread) SRT-4 Performance Modifications and Upgrade Paths

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by 03RedSRT4

Damn. Can I get your book on cassette?

No. Use this NVDA :>

[flomoloko]

question about PCV check valve. Is a catch can required to use this? I do have my intake hooked up like stock (no lines removed).

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by flomoloko

question about PCV check valve. Is a catch can required to use this? I do have my intake hooked up like stock (no lines removed).

A catch can isn't required but it's highly recommended. The check valve will get gummed up pretty quick and may cease to function.

[Phillip]

so what all do you plan on covering in this guide once its all finished?

[srt4srsexy]

Nice north now just need sticky for my car wont start and my car wont pass emissions.

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by Phillip

so what all do you plan on covering in this guide once its all finished?

In addition to what's already up, big wheel stockers, big turbo builds to around 450whp, drag race mods and an overview of SCT\EMS.

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by srt4srsexy

Nice north now just need sticky for my car wont start and my car wont pass emissions.

After this is finished I'm going to do a guide for all the common problems (smoking turbos, spark blow out, emissions, 3rd gear pop-out, etc) and a new buyers guide.

[speedypollard]

Wow do they pay you lol? That's a lot of extra work...very helpful though

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by speedypollard

Wow do they pay you lol?

No.





I do what I do because I enjoy the car and the community.

[thej]

ty for starting this north

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by trinity_rush2001

i was reading the performance thread q/a and i was curious about the coolants. you only say mopar or zerex. any idea where i can get them? i know dealer for the mopar. but cant find zerex. ive always used prestone but as i see you said other coolants damage aluminum.

need the best insight at what to do and 100k miles as i will reach that point tomorrow

I've seen Zerex (which is a Valvoline product) at Pep Boys, NAPA, Autozone, Walmart and O'reilly's. I've heard that Prestone Extended Life is compatible but I've never read the label to confirm that it's HOAT certified and they don't list it on their website.

As for 100K mile maintaince there are a number of threads on the topic but I haven't added that section to the stickie yet (will be doing so before it's complete). If you haven't already changed it, the engine timing set would something to replace for sure.

[scramer05]

1.Mod list in sig. Curious where to go next. Got a 75shot set-up in the works and meth planned. Just curious why none of the power plans discuss 2.0 cams, UDPs, 62mm TBs, and all the other small mods?

2. Dsp + FM wga off pcm control. Currently using the butt dyno. Took the wga off of pcm control and turned the boost up. My buddy is doing all of my tuning. Am I better off staying at 15psi or staying off of pcm boost and running 19-17psi? I will be doing datalogging this weekend on all the suggested parameters.

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by scramer05

1.Mod list in sig. Curious where to go next. Got a 75shot set-up in the works and meth planned. Just curious why none of the power plans discuss 2.0 cams, UDPs, 62mm TBs, and all the other small mods?

2.0 cams are mostly pointless, there are far better options.

Underdrive pullies are a complete, total and utter waste of money on this platform.

The stock throttle body and intake manifold don't even start to become a bottle neck until 500whp (which a stock turbo is NEVER going to see). Those parts will be discussed in a later section for big turbo applications over 400-450whp but under those power levels you won't get a single peak hp and only 4-6whp at other parts of the RPM range.

Assume any other mods like these that aren't mentioned are a total waste of money or their $:HP ratio is so low that they're almost a waste of money.

Quote: Originally Posted by scramer05

2. Dsp + FM wga off pcm control. Currently using the butt dyno. Took the wga off of pcm control and turned the boost up. My buddy is doing all of my tuning. Am I better off staying at 15psi or staying off of pcm boost and running 19-17psi? I will be doing datalogging this weekend on all the suggested parameters.

Forward Motion WGAs aren't designed to be run off PCM control, the spring is only 8lbs. Running it with enough preload to hit 15+ psi will put excessive stress on the WG lever pin causing it to wear a grove in the exhaust manifold skewing or bending the WG flapper (permanent, time to buy a new exhaust mani, kind of damage). Without meth, you should be shooting for a max of 22psi in the summer and 20psi in the winter >ON< PCM control with the FM WGA and DSP's 93tune. With meth, a max of 25psi in the summer and 22.5psi in winter. Keep in mind though that the amount of boost you run IS NOT a measure of how much power you're making. Only a dyno can dial in boost levels like that to tell you if running 22psi makes more WHP than 23psi.

[scramer05]

Ok. I'll put the wga back on pcm control. What's the best process for getting the 20psi boost levels?

[NorthNJSRT4]

Quote: Originally Posted by scramer05

Ok. I'll put the wga back on pcm control. What's the best process for getting the 20psi boost levels?

If you're trying to use an FM or S2 WGA on a stock or Stage 1 PCM with the 93tune it's not going to work right out of the box. The 93tune on a stock or S1 PCM assumes that you're using a stock WGA so the wastegate duty cycle is scaled for that WGA alone and PCM WGDC% learning is disabled. But there's a trick to get it to learn the correct WGDC% to operate an FM or S2.

1.) Boost leak test the system, tbolt hose clamp and ziptie all the lines making SURE everything is tight. If you don't have a boost leak tester you will need one to complete this step, just tightening things up isn't enough to be positive there are no leaks.
2.) Run a single vacuum line from the turbo housing directly to the WGA then set the arm so that it boosts to 8-9psi. Keep tweaking the arm until it's good.
3.) Hook the vacuum lines back up on PCM control as stock through the WG solenoid.
4.) Load the factory stock or Stage 1 tune back on the PCM, start the engine at least once.
5.) Reset the PCM by pulling the negative lead off the battery for a minute.
6.) Drive the car around doing some WOT pulls for a while until the boost levels stabilize and become predictable (this is the learning process).
7.) Load the 93tune without resetting the battery.
8.) With the handheld, set up your desired boost level to what you want to hit in 3rd or 4th gear, set up your AFR to your target in 3rd or 4th gear, datalog for knock (adding fuel or pulling timing as needed to make sure ST knock never goes over 1 count).

If you have to reset the battery for any reason, write down your DSP settings and repeat the whole process again from step #4.

If for some reason you just can't get the car's boost level dialed in you can make things easier by getting a rescale tune for the FM or S2 WGA by PMing "Turbo666".