Okay my Stage 3 car is having issues....Maybe you guys can help me out..
Not really sure...but here is some informative background info:
-Car is on original battery. (Car was built in October 2003 still shows a healthy 13.8 volts when driving around)
-Car has 83,XXX miles
-Fuel Pump Rewire (4 months after S3 install)
-Walbro 255 (Put in when I did S3 7 months ago)
-S3 fuel setup
-Coolingmist S2 H20/Meth mix 60/40.
The problem:
Yesterday I was driving on the interstate. I notice some damn road work coming up so I just coast in 5th gear. Car gradually slows then I got to give the car some gas because I am going a little too slow.. Slowly press on the accelerator in 5th and nothing..Its like I am not giving the car gas at all.. what the hell. So I downshift in 4th around 50mph and gave car gas and still nothing... I put the car in neutral and coast to a complete stop due to traffic. Traffic starts to go again. I put car in first and start going but the car won't go and it dies! "great I thought" I try starting it up and it won't start. I put on my hazards and wave people to go by me. I left my cell phone at home due to low minutes. I try starting it again and nothing. I turn the key completely off and take it out. Say a little prayer put key in and it starts up! I head to my destination with no problems. I then get back to my car to start it up. It cranks over and everything but won't start. SOB.
I pop the hood and check random fuses all seems well. Then I check my fuse holder by the alternator from the fuel pump rewire:
Notice the left side. I was told its from a bad ground?
I unplugged the meth kit pump ground, not sure if that did anything or not.
Car started up.
Drove it home no problems.
This has happened on 2 other occasions in the past all after Coolingmist kit... It seems like it happens about a couple minutes after I do a WOT pull and need to slow down to 50 or so. But the car has never died those 2 other times.
A very smart local who knows a ton about SRT-4's said it was my fuel pump taking a shit. He said the fuel pressure relief valve goes bad. ( I have heard of this happening)
My Coolingmist kit had a wire tapped into the power for the TPS signal wire using a quick splice connector. ( I still get 3.58 volts at WOT though. throttle opens up at 78%)
Relay for fuel pump rewire going bad? (Its located in my trunk so its not open to the elements) Everything is connected good.
I got a new 25 amp fuse and put that in. Going to check it after a week if myc ar is still running
I found this info:
Quote:
wow someone that is as hardcore as me with there SRT lol... I had the same problem you did, I had a stage 3 pump with the bottle neck mod and all, my EVAP system is still in the back, but its unhooked up under the hood. the way I pin pointed my problem was to put a fuel pressure gauge at the feed line between the tank and stock hard line and then pluged the line right by the firewall to test pressure just in that line, it again bleeds right off, problem fixed by replacing the pump and putting my stock pump back in. The check valve in the stage 3 pump was bad and would not hold pressure. put the stock one back in and i hold a nice 43 lbs for a LONG time after the car is off. see the pump should hold the pressure in the line regardless of the tank vent.
So we could take off the plastic end cap ont he end of the S3 fuel rail and put a gauge there to monitor fuel pressure>? Sounds like what that guy did was a good idea..
Contact Walbro and see if you can get an Ohms value that the pump is supposed to have. I dont see anything else causing it, other than the pump or a bad ground causing the amperage to spike. Where are you grounded to?
Contact Walbro and see if you can get an Ohms value that the pump is supposed to have. I dont see anything else causing it, other than the pump or a bad ground causing the amperage to spike. Where are you grounded to?
No idea how many ohms its supposed to have. I will find their contact information and give them a call.
^There is my fuel pump relay for the fuel pump rewire. It sits in my trunk on the pass. side.
Posted this in the "Problems" section and got no responses:
I've seen many threads with variations on this theme, but my situation is really strange.
The car mostly runs fine. Pulls strong in 3rd and 4th gear. If I try to floor it in 2nd gear, it backfires repeatedly once I hit 4500 rpm, and loses power. This only started happening with cooler weather. It's much less likely to happen when it's hot out, or if I turn off the fan mod and let the coolant temp rise to 200 (it usually sits around 170 - 180).
My Aeroforce gauge shows zero knock when it happens. No CEL, no codes.
I tried replacing plugs, plug wires, coil, and cam position sensor. Also tried gapping plugs at 0.32, though 0.36 worked fine for two years.
I have Stage 3 w. toys using the stock vacuum line setup, AGP WGA, 55 mm TB, SEE, DCR oil mod, catch can, check valve, short ram, fan mod, BS assembly removed, urethane motor mounts. Been running this way for quite some time.
WOT pulls are with DAB 2, but I've also seen it happen in DAB 1 and DAB 0. Boost levels look same as ever.
Recently installed Odyssey battery, but the problem was happening before then. Used to have a WOT box... pulled it out because I thought it was the source of the problem. No dice.
Posted this in the "Problems" section and got no responses:
I've seen many threads with variations on this theme, but my situation is really strange.
The car mostly runs fine. Pulls strong in 3rd and 4th gear. If I try to floor it in 2nd gear, it backfires repeatedly once I hit 4500 rpm, and loses power. This only started happening with cooler weather. It's much less likely to happen when it's hot out, or if I turn off the fan mod and let the coolant temp rise to 200 (it usually sits around 170 - 180).
My Aeroforce gauge shows zero knock when it happens. No CEL, no codes.
I tried replacing plugs, plug wires, coil, and cam position sensor. Also tried gapping plugs at 0.32, though 0.36 worked fine for two years.
I have Stage 3 w. toys using the stock vacuum line setup, AGP WGA, 55 mm TB, SEE, DCR oil mod, catch can, check valve, short ram, fan mod, BS assembly removed, urethane motor mounts. Been running this way for quite some time.
WOT pulls are with DAB 2, but I've also seen it happen in DAB 1 and DAB 0. Boost levels look same as ever.
Recently installed Odyssey battery, but the problem was happening before then. Used to have a WOT box... pulled it out because I thought it was the source of the problem. No dice.
Its either spark or fuel related... more then likely but you've covered most if not all parts to the actual spark system. Try Di-electric grease on both ends of the spark plug wires... can be found at an automotive store.
Check your timing on your Scangauge when it does it. Let me know what your getting and I will check what mine says off the Scangauge. If you can check your fuel trims as well.
If I recall the WOT box does have a connection that went to the TPS harness. I would swap out TPS sensor with someone to see if maybe the TPS sensor is going bad. I ended up taking the WOT box/2-step out of my wife's SRT-4 because it was cutting out between gears during normal shifting. When I took it out I went ahead and did a TPS rewire as well. It solved the problem with her car. But your scenario is different then what we were experiencing.
Have you tried resetting the pcm? Almost seems like it good be a temp related issue as well with maybe a temp sensor of some sort malfunctioning throwing off the pcm in 2nd. Reason is because the pcm is tailored to limiting boost in 1st and 2nd gear if ran on pcm controlled boost and one of the parameters it looks at is temp. Hard to say/pin-point the actual source since your not throwing any codes. Hope some of this information can help you in some way.
I did put di-electric grease on both ends of the plug wires when I replaced them. (check)
I reset the PCM every time I replaced something. (check)
I will check timing on the scan gauge when it happens. Good idea.
TPS rewire... hmm. My car did the same as your wife's with the WOT box in. It would randomly cut power, acting like I was WOT shifting when I was not. Perhaps the WOT box fuxor'ed the TPS somehow.
I may buy the TPS rewire kit soon if nothing else works.
Looks like it gets 23 degrees of timing advance at WOT in 2nd gear. The timing drops quickly to 17 degrees when it gets the big backfire.
I re-installed my stock thermostat. Seems to help somewhat, but I still get the problem sometimes. Noticed that it's less likely to happen when I roll into WOT slowly, or if I have the A/C running.
Makes me think the PCM can't read rpm correctly when the engine is revving too quickly. PCM calculates RPM from throttle position sensor and crank shaft sensor, right?
Guess I'll buy the TPS re-wire kit, and maybe a new TPS next.
It starts to spin as power builds up... but that's been the case since I had Stage 3. Nothing unusual.
The rpm point varies somewhat by air temperature. Tried it this morning (was even cooler than usual) and it went BAM at ~ 3800 rpm. Ugh.
Turned on my A/C, turned a corner, hit WOT in 2nd again... and it didn't happen at all.
So I can mask it on the street (sometimes) by running the A/C. Can't do that at the track, 'cause I'll be dripping water.
this defiantly sounds like a fuel or ignition issue. If you have replaced most of ur secondary ignition without a change then im gonna say its a fuel issue. That is very weird that the a/c has that big of an affect on it. Im gonna go out on a limb and "guess" that it could possibly be injector related. I experienced a VERY weird issue a while back. I had a issue with my car "popping" at idle after talking with MANY people and a lot of time spend diagnosing it tuned out my basically new S3 injectors were messed. The weird thing was that when the a/c was on the "popping" would go completely away. I know this is a completely different issue but i would possibly try cleaning them or further testing the fuel system components. It also is strange that it only happens in 2nd gear...
Damn Novak, thats messed up. Great that you got it figured out.
SRT4real... stock BOV setup? If not do you have the red vacuum line hooked up?
Never updated my issue (top of page) But I have a bad connection somwhere, I put a new relay in there and we are going to put the fuse holder near the relay in the trunk. (should of done this in the first place) Going to solder those main connections.
As for my car dieing a friend said it might be my meth kit flooding the car out.. I still don't understand how that could happen. I mean its not pumping after going WOT.
Still think it has to do with the connection points on the fuel pump rewire.
Quick question. This will work on the Stage 3 rail correct? Anyone have a fuel pressure gauge on there car? If so anything special need to be done with our rail?
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put key in and it starts up! I head to my destination with no problems. I then get back to my car to start it up. It cranks over and everything but won't start. SOB.
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