Super AFC Neo currently setup for stock turbo. Will zero out and may remove (and sell) or keep for tweaking when budget allows.
Wasn't able to secure a Maxxfab 3" o2 in time. I ordered one but then Scott refunded when he couldn't get another shop to help him. Going with stock housing for now, rest of the exhaust is 3", catted and muffled (very quiet, thanks Chuck@Thermal R&D)
Several things will be for sale (some parts already spoken for) and posted in the appropriate forum, this post will be updated with direct link for those curious.
In addition to S3R going on, Samco Intercooler and Radiator hoses will go on, will have to tap for W/I elsewhere, TBA
Setup as installed -
S3R w/Toys
FBM Ported Intake with Matched 55mm TB
AEM CAI
Thermal R&D TBE with Cat
Apex'i Super AFC Neo
CoolingMist Vari-cooled controlled trunk mounted W/I (with Boost Juice!)
All else stock...
Watch the How-To forum since nobody has documented a S3R install....
Super AFC Neo currently setup for stock turbo. Will zero out and may remove (and sell) or keep for tweaking when budget allows.
Wasn't able to secure a Maxxfab 3" o2 in time. I ordered one but then Scott refunded when he couldn't get another shop to help him. Going with stock housing for now, rest of the exhaust is 3", catted and muffled (very quiet, thanks Chuck@Thermal R&D)
Several things will be for sale (some parts already spoken for) and posted in the appropriate forum, this post will be updated with direct link for those curious.
In addition to S3R going on, Samco Intercooler and Radiator hoses will go on, will have to tap for W/I elsewhere, TBA
Setup as installed -
S3R w/Toys
FBM Ported Intake with Matched 55mm TB
AEM CAI
Thermal R&D TBE with Cat
Apex'i Super AFC Neo
CoolingMist Vari-cooled controlled trunk mounted W/I (with Boost Juice!)
All else stock...
Watch the How-To forum since nobody has documented a S3R install....
Sweet!!
Do you already have an upgraded clutch?
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Stage 3 FNF | Maxxfab Stg3 o2 | CTI Charge Pipe | AGP Stg3 WG | N2MB Toybox | Thermal 3" Turboback| JMB UPP | HKS SSQ BOV | JMB SRI | Mopar Wires | NGK 4306 Plugs | Maddog 72% STS / Rod Brake | BC Coilovers | QW BFMIC | B-Woody MM's | AEM WB | 30/30 Boost Gauge | Aeroforce Pro Scangauge | Pizza Ball|
Fro G's garage. When you want to be fast in the PNW
JUST CAME BACK FROM THE TRACK . . . WHAT DO YOU THINK
I got to say I'm a bit upset with the times. I'm know I need more driving in but damn. I just thought I would do better -
R/T .410
60' 7.9
1/4 12.3
MPH 113
All night I ran low 12s. Peaking 25psi, on HOM, and with slicks. I wasn't WOT shifting. I think I was leaving the line around 4500rpm. I have almost every major mod installed. A/F were around 11.0. I was so wanting high 11s. I've done a leak test up to 20psi with no leaks.
Ideas? Thoughts? I'm just freakin upset. I see tons of S3ers running high 11s.
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Mopar Stage 3R with Toys
2004 Flame Red SRT-4
Turbocharged 2.4L DOHC I4 HO
You have your 60' listed wrong. That is your 1/8th mile. The 60' would be 1.8-2.3. That will be a good indicator how well your start is. What was your highest trap speed?
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11.9@117 so far.
Wiseman - Just cuz someone else has a fast car with the same parts as you, doesn't mean your car is fast.
Work harder, millions of people on welfare are depending on you.
Hydrohopper, post up the full break down of your slip. The issue may lie in your 60' time like geezer mentioned. I would think too that people with unmolested stock wheeled stage 3's run low 12's all day long in HOM with slicks. Those who dip into the 11's are driving the car really well (aka, driving the piss out of it), WOT shifting and what not. IMO, and from what I have seen at least it takes a good driver to get the S3's (non-big wheel) into the 11's. In my mind a 12.3 is a pretty decent time, although it does seem that your trap speed could be a little higher.
I posted about this a while ago, but I still haven't figured it out. My car is running a lot leaner than it should for my mods. I'm only running around 20-21psi and my afr is around 11.0 all the way to redline. My mods are:
FnF PnP stg3 w/toys
Maxxfab o2 and catless DP w/borla CB
55mm TB and PnP IM
intake and all hardpipes
walbro 255 and pump rewire
AGP FMIC
I replaced the hose that goes to the demand reg. and it is still lean. I have an AGP wga that I want to use, but last time I put it on the afr would start around 12.0 and rise rapidly. The car is running good, I just don't understand why it's this lean. From what I've read most of you guy have a similar mod list w/agp wga and still have plenty of fuel.
Sorry for the long post.
Tim
Ok here is my best slip . . . (I couldn't get the camera to do right)
Here is my power mod list:
S3r with toys (tial wheel), turbo and mani were ported/polished/ceramic coated/cyro treated, 60mm tb, needswings downpipe with e-cut, AGP WGA, AGP Race FMIC, 8.5mm wires with plugs, PTP S3 Clutch, SAFCII (installed but not tuned).
hydro, I'm guessing with the ported turbo, it's a bigger wheel too (I didn't see it in your mods)? If so, you're going to be running out of fuel because you need more fuel because you're pushing through more air.
It mya be that the fuel filter is clogged or one of the injectors is.
I posted about this a while ago, but I still haven't figured it out. My car is running a lot leaner than it should for my mods. I'm only running around 20-21psi and my afr is around 11.0 all the way to redline. My mods are:
FnF PnP stg3 w/toys
Maxxfab o2 and catless DP w/borla CB
55mm TB and PnP IM
intake and all hardpipes
walbro 255 and pump rewire
AGP FMIC
I replaced the hose that goes to the demand reg. and it is still lean. I have an AGP wga that I want to use, but last time I put it on the afr would start around 12.0 and rise rapidly. The car is running good, I just don't understand why it's this lean. From what I've read most of you guy have a similar mod list w/agp wga and still have plenty of fuel.
Sorry for the long post.
Tim
Are you sure your wideband is properly calibrated and reading correctly? See if you can borrow a buddies wideband (O2 sensors do go bad over time, especially with leaded race gas or MMT in octane boosters). Another easy way to check it would be a couple of dyno puls with a sniffer up the tailpipe (obviously not the most accurate method, but it could be an interesting comparision if the tailpipe sniffer came back richer when we all know it's supposed to be leaner by at least 1 full point than a wideband).
If the wideband checks out, then this could be a fuel system insufficiency problem. Did you remember install the 75PSI FPR when you installed the Walbro 255? If that checks out, then you need a way of checking your fuel pressure at WOT and correlating that with your boost...Aeroforce sensors is one possibility and there are many others.
hydro, I'm guessing with the ported turbo, it's a bigger wheel too (I didn't see it in your mods)? If so, you're going to be running out of fuel because you need more fuel because you're pushing through more air.
It mya be that the fuel filter is clogged or one of the injectors is.
No bigger wheel installed. The inlet side was just more less tapered down up to the compressor wheel.
I have plenty of fuel left. I'm peaking around 25psi and my a/f are still around 11.0
JUST CAME BACK FROM THE TRACK . . . WHAT DO YOU THINK
I got to say I'm a bit upset with the times. I'm know I need more driving in but damn. I just thought I would do better -
R/T .410
60' 7.9
1/4 12.3
MPH 113
First thing that comes to mind is boost leak test.
Your trap is very low for HOM with the mods listed. Also I would try WOT shifting if you can. If you can afford an N2MB/Phrozen WOT box, get one, you won't regret it!!! If you are really granny shifting that could also explain the low trap speed.
Quote:
I would think too that people with unmolested stock wheeled stage 3's run low 12's all day long in HOM with slicks. Those who dip into the 11's are driving the car really well (aka, driving the piss out of it), WOT shifting and what not. IMO, and from what I have seen at least it takes a good driver to get the S3's (non-big wheel) into the 11's.
True WOT shifting is a must, along with a good launch on properly warmed slicks, but I feel anyone can do it with a little practice. Once you figure out the formula, you just stick to it and Stage 3 will deliver.
I have a completely unmolested Stage 3 (steel wheeled) turbo, absolutely no ported parts, and I have run 11's on little 23" slicks several times. I don't feel I am a great driver by any means. Car makes a modest 365whp as tested on a dynojet, and I feel if I had upgraded to a 24.5" slick I could have easily cut another couple tenth's off the ET just with improved 60ft times.
^^^ Thanks. I think that I forgot to mention that HOM kicked me out sometime while on that run. Not sure why, I'm thinking I didn't have enough 110 (mixed a bit with 93). I'll look at that box you are talking about too.
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S3r Finally!
Fro G's garage. When you want to be fast in the PNW 
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