I have a boomba wastegate that came on my srt-4 i recently purchases. Read the manual for installing to learn about the boost adjustment. Before, it would spike to 20, then hold 13-14 to redline. So I adjusted the screw clockwise 1 turn (2 psi according to the install) and just got back from a test drive. Car is definately faster (by the seat of the pants and the increasing loss of traction in 2nd) but now I am getting some pinging that was never there before. At one point, the engine just completely backed off of itself like it smacked the rev limiter (only about 4-5k rpm), let off then it resumed accelerating. I thought with the stock ecu pulled timing when the boost increased, so I am a little confused. I did adjust the boost controller to exactly back where it was before, until I learn more about whats going on. All 3 solenoids on this thing have been de-hosed, so it has no computer boost control what so ever. Was I just pushing it too hard?? CEL has always been on (code for power steering pressure switch and a map correlation code.) Car also has a greddy e-manage but unsure what part its playing right now (no support software or cable, adjustment screws on it seem centered) Can somebody help me, not a complete turbo newby, but definately a srt-4 newb!!
thanks for the quick reply. I figured thats what the deal was. What about the pinging? Could any boost leaks cause it to run lean and detonate. It has iridium plugs gapped about 0.035"
what could have caused it though? I am really not trying to get anyone to diagnose this thing over the internet, just looking for some ideas on what needs to change for this stop happening. I would love to run the boost level like that, but i dont want it knocking though lol. I am sure that injectors would be an awesome idea, but I only went up 2 psi and now it pings. a little clueless on that one. All the mods are in the sig
Found this article Detonation explained Its probably leaning out. Being that it has no fuel upgrades what so ever (to the best of my knowledge) and that might be causing the ping. I really need to get this thing on a dyno or purchase a wideband. Ive have been hesitant to go the dyno for 3 pulls @ $75.00, seems kinda of like a waste if I have no cable for greddy or map clamp of any sort. They do have a tailpipe wideband though. Will doing the fuel pump re-wire help with any extra fuel??
If I understand correctly, you're making 22psi...the stock map sensor can only read 18. So, turn it back down.
I guess Hard to say what its doing since the stock gauge only reads 20. But I liked they way it ran though Oh well, better safe than sorry, since it's my wife's daily driver
Yes, you can get a different gauge. If you like the stock look get a stewart warner 25 or 30 psi boost gauge. fits right into the stock gauge pod, almost looks stock.
Or get a VEI digital boost gauge. Very easy to read with the large LED numbers for boost and vac.
as for the pinging, I bet you are getting knock and detonation. You have no fuel mods listed and your fuel system is probably being over taxed running 20 - 22 psi on the turbo. Back the boost down to 18 psi.
remember boost doesn't limit how much boost your car runs, fuel and air mixture does.
If you run out of fuel at 18 psi (as in that is the max your car can handle safely), then 18 is the max boost you should be running. Anything over you are playing with fire.
Look at it this way, would you rather hold off at 18 psi and then spend the $300 for a fuel return line to increase fuel output or the $1500 or more for an engine rebuild after you blow a piston through the block or melt a piston?
It is your car so do what you want with it, but honestly, I would take the advice of the guys on here and back the boost down for the moment to 18 psi to be safe since it is the "wife's" DD.
Back it down to 18 psi, get a fuel return line or Stage 2 injectors, get a wideband before messing around with boost and fuel again and then figure out how to use the e-manage or mapclamp to pull fuel out that isn't needed. On the stock PCM or S1 PCM you don't want it to see anything more than 18 psi. The mapclamp will hide some of the signal from the PCM so it won't pull timing. But do not do any of this until you atleast get the above listed items (FRL or S2 injectors, wideband, mapclamp or e-manage).
Thanks man, you really cleared up all confusion for me. I know I need the e-manage cable, wideband and fuel upgrade. If I went stg 2 injectors or even 750cc's, I would still need the return line kit to control them right, or can the e-manage do that. the return line kit just seems expensive. Seems like you can get injectors for the same price. But what do I know. If I get the fuel system up to par, can i crank the boost up another turn and get away with it then??
Thanks man, you really cleared up all confusion for me. I know I need the e-manage cable, wideband and fuel upgrade. If I went stg 2 injectors or even 750cc's, I would still need the return line kit to control them right, or can the e-manage do that. the return line kit just seems expensive. Seems like you can get injectors for the same price. But what do I know. If I get the fuel system up to par, can i crank the boost up another turn and get away with it then??
No problem. 750cc injectors on stock turbo are overkill. You won't need anything more than S2 injectors. Look at it this way, S2 and S3 are the same injectors. If they handle enough fuel flow for 360 whp from S3 they will handle you stock turbo power output.
Yes the FRL is kind of expensive but you only have to buy it once. it can be used with every fuel setup you come up with after that. The other thing is 650cc and 750cc injectors are rated at a fuel pressure of 43 psi. The stock fuel pressure is 58 psi. Which means that you will flow way too much fuel. Now this is where a FRL comes into play, you can use the adjustable fuel pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure in the system down to what you need and then pull the rest of the fuel out using the piggyback (e-manage, mapclamp, etc...). The FRL is used to do course corrections to the fuel flow, whereas the e-manage, mapclamp, SAFC, DTEC are used to make fine tuned changed to the fuel flow.
I would say that if you are going to try and flow more fuel but are staying stock turbo for awhile, go with S2 injectors. Plug and play, easy install. If you are planning on going with a bigger turbo kit soon, then get the FRL and use that for the time being to flow more fuel through the S1/stock injectors.
As for raising to boost, not until you get a wideband and see how your a/f's look first. The stock PCM and the S1 PCM only have a map sensor good enough for reading 18.25 psi. Now when the computer reads that you are maxing out the map sensor it pulls timing back from you in the form of knock retard. This means even though you gain power from the boost you are running, you lose power from your timing advancement going to crap. It is difficult but you want on stock turbo a good mixture of both. Good TA and good boost. Sometimes it is a compromise though on one side or the other.
My recommendation is to get more fuel and put 20 psi on the turbo. Then with the wideband saying you are running rich, use the mapclamp, e-manage to pull some fuel out until you get to a mid 11's (like 11.4-11.5 a/f). See where your TA and KR is at that time. Then fine tune the fuel to where you are getting as much TA as you can without KR. If you get KR then back the fuel down a bit to where it is slightly richer and that should make it go away.
That is just the basics of it. The real tuners on the board could give you more indepth info on what/how to do it but more than likely you would need to bring it somewhere to get tuned.
Increased the boost and 2 issues arose......
) but now I am getting some pinging that was never there before. At one point, the engine just completely backed off of itself like it smacked the rev limiter (only about 4-5k rpm), let off then it resumed accelerating. I thought with the stock ecu pulled timing when the boost increased, so I am a little confused. I did adjust the boost controller to exactly back where it was before, until I learn more about whats going on. All 3 solenoids on this thing have been de-hosed, so it has no computer boost control what so ever. Was I just pushing it too hard?? CEL has always been on (code for power steering pressure switch and a map correlation code.) Car also has a greddy e-manage but unsure what part its playing right now (no support software or cable, adjustment screws on it seem centered) Can somebody help me, not a complete turbo newby, but definately a srt-4 newb!!
Hard to say what its doing since the stock gauge only reads 20. But I liked they way it ran though 
Oh well, better safe than sorry, since it's my wife's daily driver 
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