How to adjust Mopar Stage 2 Wastegate? - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-05-2008, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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How to adjust Mopar Stage 2 Wastegate?

Car Specs:
2003 SRT-4
52,000 Miles
Mods: Greddy Turbo Timer. Other than that, stock for the time being. (however, I will be adding CAI and stage 2 along with BFMIC in the very near future)

I would like to get 15psi. From what I've read, I need to do 2 turns on the wastegate (to make it smaller). Anyone have any thoughts? TIA!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-05-2008, 05:22 PM
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stickied in the S&P Development vendor section

Click----> http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f221...ge-1-a-211631/
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 01:12 AM
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when you get s2 new you will get an instruction manual that tells you how to do it. dont try to get more boost out of it unless you use a mapclamp to hide boost. but what i did was take the wga as it is and scribe a ring around the arm at the canister, then make a mark on a stick or something that is 4mm, pull the arm out and mark the 4mm mark on the arm at the canister. put the wga on, keep adjusting until you can see your second (4mm) scribe mark flush with the canister, and make sure you do this while the arm is connected to the wastegate flapper arm.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 04:28 PM
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o i just bought a new s2 wga off a fellow member on here..so when i get it i mark where the arm meets the canister and one i put it on the car i ajust it so that it only 4mil from the canister right??>....now i have stage 1 pcm and it really cold by me 20-35 degrees daily...if i put it on soon will it over boost at all once the pcm learns its there...basicly if i put it on soon should i worrie about it leaning the air/fuel ratio out to much..ot will my stage 1 prevent that??

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-06-2008, 09:24 PM
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the s2 wga is perfect for a s1 setup, the stock fuel system can run perfect at 17psi, which is what the s2 wga will peak at. the lower gears wont have as much, but it will still be a good improvement.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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I installed mine last night and it threw a CEL after driving it after awhile. It definately boosts much quicker. I just want it to peak at 15-16psi. It's still trying to get up to 20psi. I guess I'll have to reset my PCM and just take it even easier on my car for a week and hope it'll eventually tell it that 16psi is all my car needs.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2008, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLracerX View Post
I installed mine last night and it threw a CEL after driving it after awhile. It definately boosts much quicker. I just want it to peak at 15-16psi. It's still trying to get up to 20psi. I guess I'll have to reset my PCM and just take it even easier on my car for a week and hope it'll eventually tell it that 16psi is all my car needs.
what code did you get? try to keep it running without codes and the pcm will learn whats goin on and adjust boost accordingly, it might kick it down to 16 but i got my money on 17 or 18
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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P1188. I reset the code and it's been running ok so far. It hesistates a slight bit around the 15psi mark. But I think that's just because it doesn't know where to cap it just yet.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 05:43 PM
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that is a ptb code, its from the tip sensor. take the vac line off it and all the lines off the solenoid that it connects to and cap everything those lines connect to and you will no longer get that code. and this wont affect anything with the pcm or driveability or performance.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 05:43 PM
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how to drive

how do you drive it afterwards? I kept gettin 25 psi boost spikes weeks after resetin it. It was set perfect. spike at 19 and drop to 15-16 at redline. I miss it soooooooooo much.

Mopar Stage 1, S2 Wastegate, Mopar CAI, Mopar Blue Plate, Mopar Catback Exhaust, AF/X Underdrive Pulley, Fan Mod PITA!, Prothane MMI, Carbon By Design Grill.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboCrazyJ View Post
how do you drive it afterwards? I kept gettin 25 psi boost spikes weeks after resetin it. It was set perfect. spike at 19 and drop to 15-16 at redline. I miss it soooooooooo much.
what happened to it?
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 06:01 PM
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battery

I left my amp on, and it created a ground loop noise that drained the battery. ever since then it would not relearn itself. I tried for about 15,000 miles. reseting it every couple of weeks. still would not relearn. I finally got fed up and went back to stock. I miss my 19 spike. any suggestions? I read the sticky. just wondered if I could go like 2mm and then work the boost up from there? you know get it to work at 17 spike and reset move couple turns and get it to spike at 18-19

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboCrazyJ View Post
I left my amp on, and it created a ground loop noise that drained the battery. ever since then it would not relearn itself. I tried for about 15,000 miles. reseting it every couple of weeks. still would not relearn. I finally got fed up and went back to stock. I miss my 19 spike. any suggestions? I read the sticky. just wondered if I could go like 2mm and then work the boost up from there? you know get it to work at 17 spike and reset move couple turns and get it to spike at 18-19
just try to go like a half a turn each time on the wga arm and see how it reacts. if it doesnt work, you can always do the $10 spring mod. or, ill be selling a wga here soon when i get my turbo project finished. check it out: Need advice on new turbo setup
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2008, 09:22 PM
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Everything on my car is stock besides a K&N typhoon intake, i can hit a spike of 17 psi and then down to about a 14 or 15, and this is stage 1. i always read that stage 2 ppl are trying to hit 15 what the hecks wrong with that?
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-09-2008, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro View Post
that is a ptb code, its from the tip sensor. take the vac line off it and all the lines off the solenoid that it connects to and cap everything those lines connect to and you will no longer get that code. and this wont affect anything with the pcm or driveability or performance.
wouldn't the easier thing to do is get the stage 2 tip and map sensors?
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