What would Be the point? You would have to bypass the one in your canister, And Either way No, Im pretty sure the bottom of the regulator has a -6an return port for a return line
You might be able to run it without a return Im not sure, You would have to block the return port on the bottom of the regulator, Then you will need fittings a Fuel pressure gauge and some fuel line, just to use a regulator because you "just have it laying around" do some research.
You can't run an external fuel pressure regulator because there's already one in the tank and the regulator works by restricting the flow of fuel returning to the tank. The stock filter/regulator takes the fuel from the pump and feeds it to the one line going to the fuel rail. When you start the car and it immediately reaches ~58 psi (+/- 4 psi) it bypasses the excess fuel back into the tank.
The external regulator needs to work the same way. It needs to be in a loop that starts with the fuel pump and returns back into the tank. If you put it on the end of your rail it would do nothing until you run the line back to the tank so the regulator could close off to raise fuel pressure to your desired set point and open up and allow excess flow to bleed back to the tank if pressure starts to go over that point.
Even if you added a return line to the tank you'd need to bypass the stock regulator otherwise you'd have two regulation devices on the same line. If you did that the second, external regulator you'd install could only raise the pressure wouldn't be effective as the first regulator at the tank would not allow you to increase pressure higher than the stock regulator's ~58 psi.
Before just slapping fuel "upgrades" on your car you need to have a reason. Are you running lean right now? Too rich? Are you logging what the pressure, injector pulse-width, fuel trims and air/fuel ratio are doing? Are you planning upgrades such as a big turbo? If so you need to figure out about how much fuel you'll need and then plan upgrades as an entire system and not just individual parts. That means making sure you have an appropriate pump, removed any stock restrictions or upgrade fuel lines as needed, appropriately sized injectors to the power you intend to make, possibly a return line setup with external regulator, then the computer calibration (tune) needed to make everything work correctly and get the desired fuel control to make the power you're shooting for.
Yes, you need to remove the stock regulation by installing a defeated regulator, i.e. blocking the stock regulator's return port so it can't bleed pressure back into the tank which sends the maximum pressure the pump can support to the fuel rail, then install a return line and an external regulator in that loop to control how much pressure is bled off back to the tank to keep the pressure you want at the fuel rail.
There are some variations that work similar to stock but use a different regulator outside of the fuel tank. An example is the AGP setup that works in principle just like stock but moves the regulator to outside of the fuel tank of up to the engine bay where it dumps the excess back into the tank and only has one line for the regulator fuel pressure going to the rail (essentially regulating before the rail instead of in-line or a loop through the rail). There's also a similar modification that uses one of the GM regulators where you modify the SRT-4's fuel pump module to remove the restrictive fuel passages inside of it between the stock pump and the stock filter/regulator (i.e. bottleneck fix) and bypass the stock regulator and use the GM regulator in place of the stock regulator and place it just outside the fuel tank.
The last type of setup is the fuel system that came with the Mopar Stage 3 kit. It came with a replacement fuel pump module/canister that included a higher flowing pump as well as a different filter/regulator that send ~75 psi fuel pressure to the rail vice the stock ~58 psi. Then there was a special "demand regulated" rail also part of the kit that had a special, integral regulator that works a little differently and closes off some of the fuel flow down to a stock 58 psi until you go into boost where it opens up and lets the full 75 psi to the injectors.
I have been looking for "fuel pressure regulator install with 05 stock rail" and all i have found was Modern Performance kit. I don't want that kit. I just want to know what has to be done to install a regulator without using a different rail. Not into drilling old rail either. Want to use my stock rail, with regulator/returnline.
You would need to find a 03' rail, go aftermarket, or have yours modified, Other then that you need to use AGP's kit or make your own which works in the same fashion as AGP's with the FPR Before the rail, Since there is no Schrader valve or fitting at the other end of the stock rail
So i could put the aero FPR before the rail? So ie just run a feed line from pump>large filter>FPR>rail? Then connect a returnline from the bottom nipple of FPR to the tank. This would utilize all (3) -6an ports on the FPR. Assuming the Aero can be used that way.
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