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Old 02-24-2013, 10:49 AM   #31 (permalink)
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The DSM guys found that clutches are directly related to crankwalk on their engines, i can only assume the same would be for our cars.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:22 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Haven't these motors been out an awful long time for this to be a new problem? 2.4l motors are probably older than some forum goers...
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:50 PM   #33 (permalink)
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update my crankshaft play measured .008
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:00 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Umm... That is within the specifications.....

End Play
0.09 - 0.24 mm
0.0035 - 0.0094 in.

A little high IMO but not the end of the world.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Default CRANKWALK! and the end of srt days for me

Maybe the idiot didn't push the seal in far enough


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Old 02-25-2013, 10:35 PM   #36 (permalink)
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That is what I am thinking. Not sure if the front seal is a dry install or needs lube. I know that the rear main is dry and goes flush with the block. I may check the good book and see what it calls for.

Wouldn't surprise me if it wasn't installed correctly...

I know that the cam seals can throw people off if they aren't familiar with the specific platform.

Last edited by atroph; 02-25-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:50 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Also, this problem didn't exist until the seal was changed.


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Old 02-26-2013, 03:40 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I had my engine rebuilt due to rod knock. The shop (which I've used many times before), found a good but used crank. They measured it's play within spec (.007something). It still pushed the main crank seal out. My ACT xtreme 6 puck clutch may or may not have played a role. But who knows. I ran the clutch for 15,000+ on the previous crank with zero issues.

Basically, even if the crank falls within spec, if it has measurement numbers on the high end, it may still walk with the right clutch, IMO.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:56 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Wow. Never thought of the heavy clutch as a crankwalk causer, but I guess it makes sense. I think this is my first SRT-4 crankwalk thread that I have seen though.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:39 PM   #40 (permalink)
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my buddies 6 bolt dsm did this but i thought when you made this thread it was a joke, iv never heard of anything like this iv got a buddy that works at our local dodge dealership (mechanic) and he said he has never heard of an srt4 doing this either
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:39 PM   #41 (permalink)
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i really hope they made a mistake man
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:46 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by enginjoe View Post
Wow. Never thought of the heavy clutch as a crankwalk causer, but I guess it makes sense. I think this is my first SRT-4 crankwalk thread that I have seen though.

Ditto here. Keep us posted OP; sorry to hear your pain and struggles. There will be a light at the end of this tunnel; it's just to early to tell what it will be.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:06 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Yes. Very interested in the outcome.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I had a motor built that walked with 1000 miles on it. Im not sure of the differences but I know there are 2 diff thrust bearings for this motor. one is supposed to be slightly different and thats important for the machine shop to know when doing a rebuild. Idk what the shop did with my engine but the entire rta and bearing set was new.
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:11 PM   #45 (permalink)
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i picked my car up from the dealership and took it to slowmotion motorsports because ive had it there before when i first got it last year and had them just do a general look, comp. test, and what not and everything came out okay. i havent had a chance to talk with drew yet but he left me a voicemail while i was at work and said i have a 35% leakdown in cylinder 1 and that my rings are fried but like i said i havent got the chance to find out how he did the test and if he checked compression first. i still have the paper from the last time they checked it and it was 150 149 150 150. and my car does blow a little smoke but its black and only when i shift, but my car does run on the rich side. ill have more information tomorrow after work. he quoted me like somethin stupid 6 or 7 k on a built bottom end which is dumb he metioned doing the clutch and flywheel and timing kit which ive already done but i guess i didnt make that clear to him. either way if i have to rebuild the bottom end im going to go with the mpx rebuild kit and take it to fowler engine to have them machine and assemble it and ill just take the block in and out myself...
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