CRANKWALK! and the end of srt days for me

[badboydneon]

That's the link I posted in post 6. That was the star online case posted in the thread.


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[william2005]

Quote: Originally Posted by RedlineRacer4

this is correct, i work at a dealership and just looked at chrysler star cases and thats exactly it. more common on n/a car's. there hasn't been enough turbo cars with this issue to have a star case written about it.

well what dealership you work at bc the one by me told me to piss off and so did Chryslers SRT customer service dept.

SOMEONE THROW ME A FUCKIN BONE HERE IM DIEING WITHOUT MY CAR

[ToyoTech8811]

I had this issue as well, i had a HUGE oil leak on the pass side. Looked like a river under there every couple hundred miles. When i was doing my T-Belt, pump cam and crank seals, the crank seal was at a 45 degree angle not sitting flush in the seat. But, before i press off the sprocket, i used a dial indicator on the sprocket, then depressed the clutch several times to see if there was alot of movement in the crank sprocket. It was in spec,i think .200 thousands of an inch just real small. But, if you have excessive crank walk, you need a set of thrust bearings i believe.

[tunerlover3]

Quote: Originally Posted by william2005

my only issue is i was told the srt tech pulled the head and then could tell i had too much play which i dont fully understand how that he could tell unless he unbolted the oil pan so he could see the crank. i feel like all he saw were my pistons in the cylinders and how he came to the conclusion that i needed a new short block still confuses me. and for some reason i wasnt able to talk to him over the phone just the lady at the service desk. she just kept telling me he was in the back working. i could of went and talked to him in person today but i got off work after they close and he wont be back till monday.

..............

Tell them to pull the oil pan and ACTUAL check the play in the crankshaft.

[william2005]

they said they wont fix it because of the camsafts and because im the 2nd owner and it could have been raced..lol

SRT= Street & Racing Technology no?

[n_charpy89]

Quote: Originally Posted by badboydneon

If your seal popped out, it'd be dripping oil onto the ground pretty quick. Are u having that issue?


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No, I just have some down the side, I assumed it was coming from the Valve Cover gasket. I have a new one waiting to go in. The car seems to be about a half to a full quart low at oil change though which I do every 3k miles with full synthetic.

[badboydneon]

Why the hell did he pull the head and not actually check end play down below. And it seems u didn't have this issue until it was worked on.


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[_Nick_]

I say you fix it. Rebuild it and learn in the process. Might cost a grand or so.

[tunerlover3]

So your mechanic can tell you have BC stage 2's but then he is also trying to measure crankshaft play with the oil pan still on?

Sounds like they are just blowing smoke up your ass.

[blacksrt2010]

op that same thing happened to mine. i got mine with like 35-40k on it and around 55k i had noticed i was using oil like crazy. i went ahead and had a rebuild kit put in simply because i had enough money to do so at the time. well it kept happening. took it to a dodge dealership and had them put a rebuild kit in because the only thing that they could come up with is that the shop that put the first rebuild kit in did it wrong. well about 400 miles later i had a knocking. spun a bearing. i ended up buying a wrecked srt for the motor and having it put in. the ppl at the dodge dealership said they had complaints about the 2.4 having problems but not enough to have a recall or anything where you would get reimbursed.

[Sota]

my bullshit-o-meter pegged from reading this thread.

[IEATVTEC]

Noob alert...

So is the seal visible as the car sits? And if one wanted to drop the oil pan to look at the bottom end, is it really that easy? Drain oil and remove pan?

[ToyoTech8811]

Quote: Originally Posted by IEATVTEC

Noob alert...

So is the seal visible as the car sits? And if one wanted to drop the oil pan to look at the bottom end, is it really that easy? Drain oil and remove pan?

Nah man, the front crank seal is behind the timing cover, and behind the crank sprocket. Only way to look at it is to remove the motor mount bracket, all engine mounts and remove upper and lower timing covers. Then, press the crank sprocket off with the miller special tools. Oil pan? It really isnt that bad to do, remove the hot side charge pipe, then the oil cooler. All the bolts are accessible when those parts are removed.

[blackbird_R/T]

The problem addressed in the technical service bulletin (TSB) wasn't very common and most of the engines affected made it into the PT Cruiser. I've heard of a few SRT-4 owners over the years having a problem with the thrust bearing but it is unlikely related to the bearing issue the TSB covers. So what happened to your car? It's hard to tell without disassembly.

If you're not the original owner, do you have oil change records proving it was maintained according to service specs? Do you always sit with the clutch depressed to the floor at all stoplights instead of putting it in neutral? What oil are you using? Are there any oiling issues? Was a bearing defective? Have you been running an aftermarket clutch with a higher clamping force pressure plate?

Since the 7/70 powertrain warranty was dropped for model year 2005 I'm guessing you have some type of service contract. You'll need to read the fine print and if that dealer is giving you a difficult time you might have to try another. And if they get into the engine and find something isn't covered there's the risk you will be on the hook to pay disassembly and diagnostic fees. Sucks but that's how they work and a dealer tech isn't going to do work and possibly not get paid, which may be why they are saying what they are and don't want to go into the engine.

You're really going to have to go into the pan and do some disassembly to find out what went wrong and if the bed plate (girdle) is pulled you're already well into the engine. If you're curious how to test for play it should be covered in the factory service manual you can download from the sticky thread at the top of the "how to" section here on the forums. If for some reason the bearing is shot and other internals are damaged you have a lot of choices but the dealership will likely be the most expensive. If you can't do the work yourself and independent shop may be much more reasonable and you have a number of chocies ranging from a new factory shortblock from Mopar for ~$1800 (with a decent discount), rebuilding your current engine, or finding a lower mileage engine from something like a turbo PT Cruiser.

[william2005]

thanks all i wont know anything till tomorrow after work ill keep you posted