i have ed hardpipes with rfl bov.. i put 4 washers in it connected vaccum lines brake boostr to tb and then a t for bov.. i also have a agp wga to turbo.. its like 10mm away from nut to nut and im only boosting 5 psi... and when i shift i get no sound of blow off vavle whats my problem?!?
whats the problem?? i wanna boost atleast 17 or 18!!
Ok I did this setup and it works great... My only question is this..
Im spiking 13psi in first gear, 16 in second gear, and then 18 in 3rd and fourth... I would rather not spike 18 with no fuel mods on the car... Any idea how to fix this? Thanks!
turn the wga back a twist or two...
I still want to spike 16 though.. Will this keep me from spiking 16 in second?
yes, but 2nd tops out so fast anyways that 3rd and 4th are the gears that matter....
boost from each gear differs anways
So I lowered it and that seemed to fix it... Thanks for the help!
BTW, the first time I read the vacuum setup, I kind of just looked at the diagram and then went with it. I didnt read about how you need to keep the Tee with the check valve in it and I ran my car for a few weeks with that out. I just put it back in and it seems to be pulling alot harder.... Does that make sense?
ive never tried to replace that check valve w/ a different line...but i dont think it would make a difference, im pretty sure its just there for the T that goes to the intake...
thanks for clearing that up though, incase anyone else wants to rip that sucker out
i have ed hardpipes with rfl bov.. i put 4 washers in it connected vaccum lines brake boostr to tb and then a t for bov.. i also have a agp wga to turbo.. its like 10mm away from nut to nut and im only boosting 5 psi... and when i shift i get no sound of blow off vavle whats my problem?!?
whats the problem?? i wanna boost atleast 17 or 18!!
surprisingly enough i have someone else w/ your SAME EXACT problem. i think i might have figured it out, and hes doing some work today and he'll get back to me tonight. ill let you know if it worked and then i can help you out so you can do the same...
I'm back with bad news. I'm only getting about 8 PSI now after 2.5 turns in on the WGA, which is a few millimeters of preload. If I let all the way off and jump on the pedal it will spike up to about 18 PSI for brief second, then it just drags me back down. If I roll in though, I go to 8 PSI and that's it. When I first started my last test drive I had unhooked the battery and it seemed to accept 10-11 PSI, but then it just knocked me back down to 8 after a few miles. The good news is that it's driveable so I don't have to take the motorcycle to work tomorrow. The bad news is that while it's still much faster than my girl's Accord , it's still VERY slow.
I'm sure I'm sure I'm almost there. I just hope I don't run out of my bag of 50 zipties before I'm done!!!!!!!!!! Someone tell me what I'm missing please!
Dude.. You have the solenoids capped. Thats your problem.
Why in the diagrams the solenoids are not labeled 05srtfour? Some people have their solenoids mounted upside down so this might confuse them. I want to go completely back to stock and you still have the red line capped off for the Stage 2/Stock, why?
i have ed hardpipes with rfl bov.. i put 4 washers in it connected vaccum lines brake boostr to tb and then a t for bov.. i also have a agp wga to turbo.. its like 10mm away from nut to nut and im only boosting 5 psi... and when i shift i get no sound of blow off vavle whats my problem?!?
whats the problem?? i wanna boost atleast 17 or 18!!
Mine did the same thing.. My problem was instead of using another T I hooked the BOV to the top portion of the stock T with the two sides that are green...
You cant do that because it is a check valve... You have to T off after the stock green T and cap that top portion...
I've been having a ton of problems with boost recently (with the mods in my sig) and so far I've traced it all back to the stock 2-way check valve connected to the brake booster. Ever since I accidentally broke that piece, my car has not been boosting right. Typically it boosts 10psi in the first gear I punch it in, then boosts about 15 the next, then 18, then 20, and I can reproduce this everytime. I tried a straight line from the brake booster, that didn't work. Tried using a series of 2 other check valves; didn't fix it. I've tried every setup in this thread with no luck boosting past 10psi the first gear I hit it.
Yes I did boostleak check the car, and it holds boost from 20psi and takes close to 40 seconds to completely bleed itself, so thats not the problem. I also swapped out the FM WGA with a stock and a S2 with the same results, so its not the WGA. I also watched the boost guage and it reads the correct amount of boost will doing a boost leak test, so its not that.
I guess what I'm saying, or rather recommending, is DO NOT screw around with your vac system, it seems to only make the car build boost slower, at least in my case.
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Why in the diagrams the solenoids are not labeled 05srtfour? Some people have their solenoids mounted upside down so this might confuse them. I want to go completely back to stock and you still have the red line capped off for the Stage 2/Stock, why?
well...the reason why i left the white line in the diagrams is so you can see the arrangement and order of the stock lines...
I've been having a ton of problems with boost recently (with the mods in my sig) and so far I've traced it all back to the stock 2-way check valve connected to the brake booster. Ever since I accidentally broke that piece, my car has not been boosting right. Typically it boosts 10psi in the first gear I punch it in, then boosts about 15 the next, then 18, then 20, and I can reproduce this everytime. I tried a straight line from the brake booster, that didn't work. Tried using a series of 2 other check valves; didn't fix it. I've tried every setup in this thread with no luck boosting past 10psi the first gear I hit it.
Yes I did boostleak check the car, and it holds boost from 20psi and takes close to 40 seconds to completely bleed itself, so thats not the problem. I also swapped out the FM WGA with a stock and a S2 with the same results, so its not the WGA. I also watched the boost guage and it reads the correct amount of boost will doing a boost leak test, so its not that.
I guess what I'm saying, or rather recommending, is DO NOT screw around with your vac system, it seems to only make the car build boost slower, at least in my case.
Ok so what youre saying is....if you break that plastic check valve when messing around with your car...your car will run like shit correct??
NOT...dont mess with your vac lines...it ruins things....
I just thought i'd clarify that for you and everyone else...
Curious, what could it hurt if you ran the WGA to the nipple torwards the front and capped the back one? Would you gain anything from it?
im not sure what would happen if you do that...i thought about it, but i never tried it.
One of my friends said he has his wga running to that nipple, instead of the back one and it gave him alot more torque. He has his vacuum setup differently though, so I just wanted peoples opinions if I would fuck something up by trying it the other way..
Hey Hey
I think all was cover but the the line comming out of the underside of the intake and how is the purge sollenoid connected we are in jersey so we have to fight the pollution.
Nick I went thought the whole post and found nothing on the two question I think that should be add to your diagram if I know were they went I would of said how it went. but it help a lot and when I know about the purge solenoid we will be done
here is what I am going to try let me know if it will work I am going to add another T to the line going to the brake booster and the now line will go to the purge solenoid but what do I do with the one under the manifold. One last question what do you have to do to remove the solenoids all together or is that a no no
Dave
1) The "brake booster" gets it's source from under neeth the intake maniold. It has nothing to do with the stock vac line setup other then the boost gauge and vacume source for your heater core pull of it. But it is in no way connected to the "stock vac setup" that the diagram refers to.
2) If your pulling the redline, pull the white line. Honestly whats the white line doing? It feeds the red lines signal to the TIP sesor. With the red line, which is the reference for the tip sensor/solenoid removed, all it will see is ambient pressure 24/7. So why have it there? And no you don't need to turn around and put a plug on the TIP sensor, again what is the plug doing? Personally I don't see the point in removing the red/white lines unless your big turbo, but to each there own there. If your an 05 just buy the damn Stage 1.
3) The line everyone refers to as the "brake boost line" (but is not) is vacume source for the purge solenoid or the fuel vapor emissions system. Under normal driving the vacume in the engine is pulled through the green 3 way valve (2 way check valve also) and through to the solenoid located behind the driver side tire. This solenoid controls purging the gas tank/charcole canister behind the passanger side rear tire. Under boost, boost pressure is felt through a black line to a "T" piece which has a venturi located in it. the boost pressure is sent through the venturi and leaks out to the airbox (black line in airbox elbow. The boost sent through the venturi draws a vacume (remember we are under boost, so there is now no vacume reerence on the car). This vacume is then sent to the same green T (which again is a 2 way check valve) and agin now ties into our purge solenoid. Now emissions regulations can be meet which alows the cars fuel vapors to be purged through the engine any time (in or out of boost). Personally it's all emissions crap. It can ALL be removed, lines, solenoids, charcole canister, everything. How much you want to remove is completly up to you. But i your worried about blowing up your gas tank or something then you don't need to be doing any of this because you are way to protective. As for emissions, this will throw a code on non staged ecu's, but it's not a performance limiting code. If it bugs you, like I said get a staged ecu. but remember staged ecu's are not emissions legal. If your trying to "mod" your car but want to keep it "emissions legal" stop kidding yourself. Emissions is NOT that big a deal. I lived in both California and New York and managed to get all my non emission frendly vechicles checked. The people that check these cars are just like you and me. 20$ or a 6-pack of suds will get you anything.
I could go on, but the point is mute. If you don't take ANYTHING from what I said take this.... Your moding YOUR car... Don't just blindly do it because you read about 1 or 2 people doing it on the forums... DO some serious research, not just on what to do, but WHAT what your doing is doing to your car. Always question why people do something, if they can't give you an answer on why they did it, that should be a red flag to you right there.
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I'm only getting about 8 PSI now after 2.5 turns in on the WGA, which is a few millimeters of preload. If I let all the way off and jump on the pedal it will spike up to about 18 PSI for brief second, then it just drags me back down. If I roll in though, I go to 8 PSI and that's it. When I first started my last test drive I had unhooked the battery and it seemed to accept 10-11 PSI, but then it just knocked me back down to 8 after a few miles. The good news is that it's driveable so I don't have to take the motorcycle to work tomorrow. The bad news is that while it's still much faster than my girl's Accord
, it's still VERY slow.
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