The only thing I did was un hooked the green and black line. But I'm not on Pcm controlled boost. And left the rest of the lines alone. Im still tuning the boost but right now it spikes 15 and hold 14ish to redline. I was a 17 spike and 15-16ish to redline.
This is how they should look minus the red and white lines for your setup.
So basically I have to turn my head 90 degrees to read the diagram correctly from what I would see standing at the front of my car I guess. Sound right? I'm going to go try that now I guess...
Of course I'm only boosting 8 PSI now because me WGA is backed way out, but assuming I can make it back up to 18/15 or so with adjustments then I'm on my way. I'll report back after more adjustments and runs tomorrow to see what I end up with in the end (as long as everything goes right).
This is how they should look minus the red and white lines for your setup.
So basically I have to turn my head 90 degrees to read the diagram correctly from what I would see standing at the front of my car I guess. Sound right? I'm going to go try that now I guess...
turbo82 - youll want to actually rerun the lines for the blue line. there are a bunch of check valves and T's that are in dire need of attention and will give you much better throttle response:
yorad - the hissing you are hearing is because the lines are a bit backasswards. make sure you check that the lines are hooked to the right soleniods. they are marked in the diagrams on the 1st page:
turbo82 - youll want to actually rerun the lines for the blue line. there are a bunch of check valves and T's that are in dire need of attention and will give you much better throttle response:
Are you talking bout the T that goes to the intake? And what check valves?
turbo82 - youll want to actually rerun the lines for the blue line. there are a bunch of check valves and T's that are in dire need of attention and will give you much better throttle response:
Are you talking bout the T that goes to the intake? And what check valves?
Your car looks good too. What wheels are those?
there is a black and green check valve that has some t's. one of them connects to the 3/8" elbow on the intake....
its a mess....
you should redo them w/ one single line from the bottom of the turbo to the soleniod....
Oh....I did that already, forgot to mention that. Whats the deal with the red and white lines? Why do we (us 03s) need to unhook them. And I was looking at the diagram for the aftermarket BOV, why couldn't you use the same setup for the stock one? And has anyone tryed?
Oh....I did that already, forgot to mention that. Whats the deal with the red and white lines? Why do we (us 03s) need to unhook them. And I was looking at the diagram for the aftermarket BOV, why couldn't you use the same setup for the stock one? And has anyone tryed?
shit....which bov do you have??
if you hook up a stock bov like an aftermarket one, it will prematurely open and close and blow off uncontrollably....
Oh....I did that already, forgot to mention that. Whats the deal with the red and white lines? Why do we (us 03s) need to unhook them. And I was looking at the diagram for the aftermarket BOV, why couldn't you use the same setup for the stock one? And has anyone tryed?
shit....which bov do you have??
if you hook up a stock bov like an aftermarket one, it will prematurely open and close and blow off uncontrollably....
I still have a stock one, I was just wondering thats all.
Oh....I did that already, forgot to mention that. Whats the deal with the red and white lines? Why do we (us 03s) need to unhook them. And I was looking at the diagram for the aftermarket BOV, why couldn't you use the same setup for the stock one? And has anyone tryed?
shit....which bov do you have??
if you hook up a stock bov like an aftermarket one, it will prematurely open and close and blow off uncontrollably....
I still have a stock one, I was just wondering thats all.
leave it hooked up to the soleniods....itll work best that way
I'm back with bad news. I'm only getting about 8 PSI now after 2.5 turns in on the WGA, which is a few millimeters of preload. If I let all the way off and jump on the pedal it will spike up to about 18 PSI for brief second, then it just drags me back down. If I roll in though, I go to 8 PSI and that's it. When I first started my last test drive I had unhooked the battery and it seemed to accept 10-11 PSI, but then it just knocked me back down to 8 after a few miles. The good news is that it's driveable so I don't have to take the motorcycle to work tomorrow. The bad news is that while it's still much faster than my girl's Accord , it's still VERY slow.
I'm sure I'm sure I'm almost there. I just hope I don't run out of my bag of 50 zipties before I'm done!!!!!!!!!! Someone tell me what I'm missing please!
Ok, I also just went and tried something new, I took the rubber cap off on the end of the row next to the green line and WGA line and put one of those vented caps on... I just went right back to tons of PTB and huge spike exactly the way I was before the re-route.
By doing that all I did was create a leak and take the WGA out of the equation right? I'm lost...
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Sound right? I'm going to go try that now I guess...
:
I'm only getting about 8 PSI now after 2.5 turns in on the WGA, which is a few millimeters of preload. If I let all the way off and jump on the pedal it will spike up to about 18 PSI for brief second, then it just drags me back down. If I roll in though, I go to 8 PSI and that's it. When I first started my last test drive I had unhooked the battery and it seemed to accept 10-11 PSI, but then it just knocked me back down to 8 after a few miles. The good news is that it's driveable so I don't have to take the motorcycle to work tomorrow. The bad news is that while it's still much faster than my girl's Accord
, it's still VERY slow.
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