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Old 05-28-2007, 09:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Click here for all your vac line diagram needs!

First off...this should be a sticky!! This vac diagram thread benifits EVERYONE with an srt!! STICKY THIS!!!

I am tired of 100 messy vacuum line threads, so here is my attempt to make ONE clean and to the point thread that will benifit EVERYONE.

A few things need to be said so that they are seen on the 1st page and to eliminate confusion further on...

- Once you finish whatever vac setup you choose, you NEED to readjust your boost to whatever you were at before Taking control AWAY from the pcm causes you to boost less because you are strictly running off of the strength of the wga spring rather than 'stock' boost levels

- If you have a 2005 srt you NEED to keep the white line intact with the tps sensor

If you have a 2003/4 you do not need the white line and you can remove it at cap the nipple at the sensor on the firewall.

- Stock/stg2 wastegates do NOT have ptb (part throttle boost) issues. Therefore the setups regarding the stock/stg2 wga would simply give you better throttle/turbo response being that there are no more messy lines and t's everywhere.

- The line coming off from the brake booster with 2 little green dots and a cap at the top does NOT literally come off of the brake booster. I am just showing you the area to look at to find that. It is in between the block and the battery. The intake and blue lines connect to it. If you look under your intake piping you WILL find it.

- The cap at the top of the line that comes off of the brake booster was originally connected to the 3/8" elbow on the intake tube. CAP the intake nipple, remove the line completely, and cap the nipple at the top of the check valve line that i just talked about.



Ok...here they are...





Please, please, PLEASE read everything i stated above and PLEASE find the correct diagram that accomodates your mods before you go asking for a diagram that is already given to you....

Thanks.
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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05SRTFOUR...thanks for this!! I vote for a sticky, too!! Get that stupid Stg 1 vacuum line sticky off of there and replace it with this one with much more information!!
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Old 05-28-2007, 11:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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these types of threads will never die.
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Old 05-28-2007, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by christian!
these types of threads will never die.

x 3,216,549,874,613.12
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by SycoFranchise
05SRTFOUR...thanks for this!! I vote for a sticky, too!! Get that stupid Stg 1 vacuum line sticky off of there and replace it with this one with much more information!!

I agree!

STI-CKY! STI-CKY! STI-CKY!
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by christian!
these types of threads will never die.

fa sho mang! hopefully this one tops them all.
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 05SRTFOUR
First off...this should be a sticky!! This vac diagram thread benifits EVERYONE with an srt!! STICKY THIS!!!

I am tired of 100 messy vacuum line threads, so here is my attempt to make ONE clean and to the point thread that will benifit EVERYONE.

A few things need to be said so that they are seen on the 1st page and to eliminate confusion further on...

- Once you finish whatever vac setup you choose, you NEED to readjust your boost to whatever you were at before Taking control AWAY from the pcm causes you to boost less because you are strictly running off of the strength of the wga spring rather than 'stock' boost levels

- If you have a 2005 srt you NEED to keep the white line intact with the tps sensor

If you have a 2003/4 you do not need the white line and you can remove it at cap the nipple at the sensor on the firewall.

- Stock/stg2 wastegates do NOT have ptb (part throttle boost) issues. Therefore the setups regarding the stock/stg2 wga would simply give you better throttle/turbo response being that there are no more messy lines and t's everywhere.

- The line coming off from the brake booster with 2 little green dots and a cap at the top does NOT literally come off of the brake booster. I am just showing you the area to look at to find that. It is in between the block and the battery. The intake and blue lines connect to it. If you look under your intake piping you WILL find it.

- The cap at the top of the line that comes off of the brake booster was originally connected to the 3/8" elbow on the intake tube. CAP the intake nipple, remove the line completely, and cap the nipple at the top of the check valve line that i just talked about.



Ok...here they are...









Please, please, PLEASE read everything i stated above and PLEASE find the correct diagram that accomodates your mods before you go asking for a diagram that is already given to you....

Thanks.

except all the diagrams are wrong... you have the left and middle solenoid's mixed up. the wga and turbo go on the outside one without the white line.
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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motherfugger youre right...

fixing right now...


fixed.

Last edited by 05SRTFOUR : 05-28-2007 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 05-28-2007, 03:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok so this 1 is fine the way it is??
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ndmoparbov.jpg

and my friends car(the 1 im working on right now) has the brake booster 1 capped off and removed should we put it back on?

His car is a stage 1 and is only pushing 5lbs of boost. His engine was replaced about a month ago and hasnt been the same since. He has a forge wga and vac line running the way they are in the diagram except the brake booster.
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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This cleanup should have been done a long time ago. Everything we need to know is in this thread. A+
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Bad4point3ss
Ok so this 1 is fine the way it is??
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ndmoparbov.jpg

and my friends car(the 1 im working on right now) has the brake booster 1 capped off and removed should we put it back on?

His car is a stage 1 and is only pushing 5lbs of boost. His engine was replaced about a month ago and hasnt been the same since. He has a forge wga and vac line running the way they are in the diagram except the brake booster.

you dont actually want to cap the brake booster, like i said, the booster in the diagrams is just to give you an idea of how to locate the green 3 way check valve found inbetween the battery and the block. what you want to do is you want to cap the top of the T that goes to the intake. If he has a line going from the turbo to the forge wga, has he tried to readjust his boost? im not sure of the spring strength in that particular wga, but that could be a cause to his low boost.
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Old 05-28-2007, 10:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by MikeCrowsoft
This cleanup should have been done a long time ago. Everything we need to know is in this thread. A+

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Old 05-28-2007, 10:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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In 37 pages, I bet someone asks, "I did this with my stage 2 wga and I am only getting 7psi."

But [in Borat voice] very niceeeeeeee.
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Old 05-30-2007, 12:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 175srt05
In 37 pages, I bet someone asks, "I did this with my stage 2 wga and I am only getting 7psi."

But [in Borat voice] very niceeeeeeee.

I hope not, but youre probably right....

which is why i posted a few things in the 1st post that need to be known/read before you ask questions...
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Sticky This!
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