It's the full S2 kit so I may have enough fuel but im not sure. I have not adjusted the WGA, I installed following the How-to on this forum.
Once the ebc comes should I try to crank it up to see what happens? I really would like to maintain the driveability, but at the same time, I want more oomph from the car.
It kills me the way the car spike at 13 and falls to around 9-10 lbs of boost when its cold, it drives me crazy to think that the only reason that is happening is because the car is able to hit the "Preset hp mark" within the ecu.
When it gets warm, I spike at 16 the drop to 14...
Anyway, not to hijack this thread but, what is the worst that could happen by running higher boost with my mods?
Sounds a little low, even with cooler weather. I'm sure it's been mentioned but you might want to go over all the intercooler piping from the compressor outlet on the turbo up to the throttle body. Don't just tighten everything, remove the clamps then reseat and tighten them. Also make sure your stock boost gauge isn't dead. When the car is off it should always sit right at "0" and you shouldn't be seeing any crazy vacuum like 24 inHg with the engine running. If you've verified all that I'd check the S2 WGA adjustment. It should be 4mm (.160"), but you could always try shortening the arm as much as it will go (less threads = more pre-load/tension = more boost). It may spike a little more but it would be a good way to check that it isn't an adjustment issue. If everything checks out I'd install your EBC and see how that works before trying to change too many other parts all at once.
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Keep in mind these results are with out our boost control...the pcm is out of the picture. But yes I agree colder air more dense which is easier compress for boost.
Sorry about the pic's it look fine on my end but your not the first to tell me that they were blurry. How is your a/f ratio with colder weather. Here in nebrask anything below 40 -45 degrees I have to raise my regulator up a lot (70 psi) just to stay at the high 11 low 12's but if its hotter than that I can set it were I tuned it (54). Yes its a 1:1 I am scarthing my head too. I know the turbo can work less harder when the temps are cold but my pcm boost controller is out of the loop. My water injection sprays before the IAT sensor too. I just added a 50/50 mix of meth/water instead of -30 washer fluid so I will see if that will help.
I am doing 22.5 no problem with just the PTP spring so you will be able to do it with no problem. So it sounds like with both springs your holding 18. I can't see the pics but thats cool.
PTP --- Can you get an even stiffer spring or longer one for more pre-load. It seems as though most that do only the PTP spring are seeing about 15 to redline. 18 to redline would be the goal here. I was also considering adding some big washers above the spring but I wanted this to be clean and not so rigged. So what say?? Stiffer or longer spring?
But I really think its more of there setup, what size vacuum lines, how long the vac lines are to the turbo-mbc-wga, and how they route it. Like I was telling 13 when I use 1/4 vacuum lines with my turnbuckle spring forceing the wga arm shut I only could hold 15 to redline and the 22 psi spike was fast. But when I switched to 7/32 the spike was a bit slower and held to 18. PT's spring just put the icing on the cake with a even slower spike and drop.
Nice write up. Now just cut and thread the WGA arm to make it adjustable. I think FWD Performance (who specializes in parts for the older turbo Dodge's) has been selling a new, modified "stock" WGA for a while now. If you're trying to maintain the stock look and are afraid to touch one yourself it might be an option, but this is definitely cheaper. Start spending too much and an aftermarket WGA's will have some benefits like the adjustability.
But I really think its more of there setup, what size vacuum lines, how long the vac lines are to the turbo-mbc-wga, and how they route it. Like I was telling 13 when I use 1/4 vacuum lines with my turnbuckle spring forceing the wga arm shut I only could hold 15 to redline and the 22 psi spike was fast. But when I switched to 7/32 the spike was a bit slower and held to 18. PT's spring just put the icing on the cake with a even slower spike and drop.
where can i find the 7/32 vac lines? i'm going to try to fix this by monday or tuesday (my days off). First i'm going to add a bleed, and then i'll go out and pic up the vac lines. Right now i have a piece of the stock geen line to my mbc, connected to a vacuum connector(converting to a bleed soon) by a 1 inch long 1/4" vac line, connected to a 1 foot long 3/8 line.......oh shit......i think i know whats fucked up. I'll see what i can do....
Oh and i tested 4th, and it's spiking the 22 still and holding 19 till around 5500rpm's and then still falls to 15@redline. I'll let you guys know my progress.
You know how I showed you guys my restrictor right. Well since it is barley open any movement in the car can push it open even further. I can tell cause once I set my mbc in the car, it stays there for while. Then boom my spike will be off a couple psi. So I went to the auto store and bought a real restrictor but with both of the different type aways lead to me adjusting the mbc about 1/64 of a turn ( I know real small turns) to reach 22. So that means that with a restrictor the bleed is barley open. So the night I some military training to do but it was really boring. I ended up working a 27 hr shift but it gave me time to think. Where the restrictor why dont I place a half foot 5/32 of vacuum. So after the shift was over I knew I had some vac lines in my trunk and had major sleep depervation. Since it too me forever to think about why I was in my trunk. On the way home I start to open the mbc up more and more. Little did I know about one full turn is just about 4 psi. I have a turn and half left and I still spike to 22 and fall to 18 but I have to tell you it does feel a bit smoother. Just thought I would share this. You know since you guys are using the stock wga or any of the mopar staged wga's you can also make a low boost and high boost setting. That you can mount the switch in your car and not have to worry about PTB. I use a three way solenoid, one deverts the air different directly to the wga giving me about 10 psi and the other goes to the mbc giving me 22.
hmmm OK so i have a kinetic WG but am dead broke and am tempted to sell it for one of these springs and stacka washer in there and coil it with the stock one. i just think i would be better off adjusting the MBC other than getting the adjustable WG the way i want it and running together well with me BC. i am just sick of trying to tune this thing and get it set to where i want it every other day. i mean yeah its easy but gets kind of annoying. but if i can hold around 18 i will be fine because i am spraying the car aswell so i dont need insane boost numbers and i kind of like a bit more of a spike.
look at the bold part in my last post. More than half of my vacuum lines are in 3/8". I'll be fixing shortly.
Dude cap that green line and T into the blue line. I done that today and wow. Boost fell even slower and spool a little slower but no I mean no surge. With PT's spring I stated that surge was at a minium but since the blue line carrys less volume of air gave me better results. But I dont use the stock solenoid and have no vacuum lines attached to it. So I would rather trade some of that low end power for so high end. With this stock turbo running anything past 19 psi show torque off the map. I cant wait for my data logger to get in.
Dude cap that green line and T into the blue line. I done that today and wow. Boost fell even slower and spool a little slower but no I mean no surge. With PT's spring I stated that surge was at a minium but since the blue line carrys less volume of air gave me better results. But I dont use the stock solenoid and have no vacuum lines attached to it. So I would rather trade some of that low end power for so high end. With this stock turbo running anything past 19 psi show torque off the map. I cant wait for my data logger to get in.
T'ing into anything going to your bc is a big no no. That's why i didn't do it. I also have a slow enough spool. Maybe too slow for my likes. I'm gonna get a S1 pcm for the boost hold(WOT) feature and get rid of my CEL's. then retune my mapclamp, cause i think i'm pulling timing again. And i think another problem is i have too much backpressure. I mean i have all this boost on stock exhaust and i think that's whats really killing me. I'm sure i'll be able to hold boost better with a 3" needswings and o2. I just don't have the money for all this shit. Maybe in two months it's my b-day and my fiance will buy it for me...
I dont follow you because both the blue and green lines are pressure sources coming from the turbo. The green is around the compressor housing and the blue is at the throat of the turbo. The blue is smaller and carrys a less volume of air meaning that less of air hitting the wga flapper and less deverting of exhaust gases. I dont have my stock solenoid (stock bc) hooked up. Every vaccum line is gone. Just unplug the blue line and cap the solenoid. Then place a 5/32 over the blue line to your mbc to the wga. Cap that green line. Just try it you will be surprise like I am. Trust nothing will happen if you T in the stock bc. I had my boost source for my fpr T'ing in the blue line before I switch over to it for my bc.
Hmm interesting reading. I use a boost source right at the turbo for the WGA. The lines from the turbo to the BC then to the WGA amount to about 1.5 feet long. They are the large diameter lines.
Ok I just installed the stock spring and the PTP spring inside of the stock one. I also added one large washer at the top about the width of the stock spring and 1/8th inch think.
Results. Car now will boost 20+ PSI to redline. Very dangerous!! If you don't tune your BC correctly this can be ugly. When I was first testing I went WOT in 3rd gear and right at redline it actually went up to 22PSI and then some major knock. NOT COOL!!..
Anyway after some adjusting I have it so my EBC will start boost at:
18PSI from 2000 to 3000 RPM
22.5 PSI from 3000-5000 RPM
18 PSI from 5000 RPM to redline
Very sweet and very smooth control now. I do not recommend doing this without an EBC since the boost will simply not drop any more. Definitly not safe for the stock turbo to go past 18.5PSI to redline IMO. I have found that shifting slightly above 5300-5500 gives better power and times with the stocker at these levels anyway. Way to much restriction for high psi to redline on the stocker.
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wga
I think FWD Performance (who specializes in parts for the older turbo Dodge's) has been selling a new, modified "stock" WGA for a while now. If you're trying to maintain the stock look and are afraid to touch one yourself it might be an option, but this is definitely cheaper. Start spending too much and an aftermarket WGA's will have some benefits like the adjustability.
I cant wait for my data logger to get in. 
Trust nothing will happen if you T in the stock bc. I had my boost source for my fpr T'ing in the blue line before I switch over to it for my bc.
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