ok, the results are: i spiked like almost 30psi and let off. Way too much. I don't think it's the washer either. My stock spring had to be forced around the upgraded one. Did you guys have this problem too? and taking apart the same wga twice is murder. The damn thing is dead. I'm buying a new one, and i'm going to try it with just the upgraded spring and washer only. Then, i will experiement with putting it in the s2 wga, and get the adjustability, higher psi to redline and better drivability. All i want is to spike 17 and hold 17 to redline. Is that too much to ask???
Boy I bet it ran real hard for a second or 2. Get it installed in another unit and go from there.
no, i wouldn't say real hard....more like real ridiculus. I put a small washer on each bolt that holds the wga to open the flapper slightly. It dropped the boost down to 17 and 13@redline. The only problem is, it has major lag and it doesn't hold very well due to the flapper being open slightly. ptob is much better also. Now if i can only hold that 17@redline, i'd be 100% happy.
ok, the results are: i spiked like almost 30psi and let off. Way too much. I don't think it's the washer either. My stock spring had to be forced around the upgraded one. Did you guys have this problem too? and taking apart the same wga twice is murder. The damn thing is dead. I'm buying a new one, and i'm going to try it with just the upgraded spring and washer only. Then, i will experiement with putting it in the s2 wga, and get the adjustability, higher psi to redline and better drivability. All i want is to spike 17 and hold 17 to redline. Is that too much to ask???
You MUST control the boost with a EBC or a very good MBC. This is not a mod that controls itself. Read the top of the forum. Mine would spike well past that if I wasn't controlling it with a boost controller.
Same deal took the stock spring and the PTP spring and put them both back into the WGA. I used a washer the diameter of the stock spring and about 1/8 inch think and placed it at the top of the springs. Put it all back together and tested for leaks. No leaks up to 30 PSI. I know I tried this before but the other WGA was torn apart 3 times and they don't seal back up after the 2nd try.
Min boost: 11 PSI with the EBC turned off.
Max boost: 25 PSI + who knows I didn't want to find out.
Max boost to redline: 18-19.5psi perfect IMO. Doesn't start to drop until 5500 rpm which is where I typically shift anyway.
Boost stability: I am able to hold 22.5 PSI steady as can be from the set point of about 3200 RPM to 5500rpm.
Spikes or surges: None
I'm done here. This IMO is the ultimate setup for the WGA at least for my car.
Same deal took the stock spring and the PTP spring and put them both back into the WGA. I used a washer the diameter of the stock spring and about 1/8 inch think and placed it at the top of the springs. Put it all back together and tested for leaks. No leaks up to 30 PSI. I know I tried this before but the other WGA was torn apart 3 times and they don't seal back up after the 2nd try.
Min boost: 11 PSI with the EBC turned off.
Max boost: 25 PSI + who knows I didn't want to find out.
Max boost to redline: 18-19.5psi perfect IMO. Doesn't start to drop until 5500 rpm which is where I typically shift anyway.
Boost stability: I am able to hold 22.5 PSI steady as can be from the set point of about 3200 RPM to 5500rpm.
Spikes or surges: None
I'm done here. This IMO is the ultimate setup for the WGA at least for my car.
I'm glad you got it perfect for your setup. I too had to buy a new one. After taking it apart twice and putting it back together twice, i din't feel like doing it nicely agin. I got a new stock wga from a buddy, and opened it up nice and neat like. Then i had to get my ptp spring out of the wga in my car. This is what it looked like after two dissablies and reasemblies(i can't spell):
And this is when i just wanted my spring back:
I still don't see how you guys are putting the stock spring in with the ptp spring. Mine fight eachother and cramp up the springs travel making it way too stiff. I know that this mod wasn't to be controlled by itself. That is why i let the computer do it. The only problem with that is the computer is my mapclamp doesn't work so it see's the boost and drops it like a mofo. So i put a bleed in the stock line to the wga. So when the computer tries to close there bleed and drop my boost, my bleed keeps all the pressure from opening the wastegate. With the ptp spring+washer and a bleed i'm able to spike about 22-23 and hold 15@redline computer controlled. I'm still not happy, i want less spike and more hold. I may try taking it off the stock lines and get an ebc. That may get me the results i'm after. Plus ptp is making a new product to rid ptob from people with after market wga's. My search for the perfect boost continues........
Last edited by Garrett@FTP-Racing : 05-09-2006 at 04:59 PM.
I just put the PTP spring inside the stock spring. They do touch each other and it is very stiff but thats how it needs to be if you want to hold 18-19 to redline. You really just need to get a EBC and don't let the PCM do anthing because its always going to fight you. The PCM was designed to control the wimpy stock WGA anyway so it won't be calibrated properly for the moded one. Pick up a greddy pro spec II here in the forums for $100-$150 you will be real happy with that to start with.
Ok I know this thread is old, but could someone help me out. I am getting the WGA spring and going to use it with the stock spring at the same time. I am also getting the same MBC that thirteens420k has. What is best way to configure all the vacuum lines for a stock WGA? I went all through this thread but couldn't find anything. From what I understand, T off the green line from the turbo, use 7/32" hose to the MBC, then have that run to the WGA. Then what do I do with the stock line i disconnected? Just cap it and call it good? Thanks
OK, I really haven't advertised this, but for the last month or so I've been running something similar, though a little less aggressive, it's very very comparable to my buddy's s2 wga. Basically I took it apart and added 3- 1/8" thick washers to the top of the spring and re-assembled. I hold 15 in 2nd and 3rd and 16 in 4th spiking about 18psi, on the factory boost control. The ecu tends to learn it and adjust down a # or so about every 50 miles, maybe a bit more. No ptb, car runs nice and strong, and it was free.
hey guys im gonna bring back an old thread but for the life of me i cannot get the damned stock wga apart ive trying everything i have panel tools screwdrives mini prybars i even tried using my mind but i guess the force isnt strong enough in me
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