TBH if a clutch goes out at 5k miles, or starts slipping, I am not putting their clutch back in my car, even if it is under warranty. I can send it in and see if they give me a new one then sell it, but for the labor involved in doing a clutch swap, and the fact that I have to battle time already having a full time job and being in graduate school full time, just swapping clutches every 5k miles is not something I can really dedicate myself to.
TBH if a clutch goes out at 5k miles, or starts slipping, I am not putting their clutch back in my car, even if it is under warranty. I can send it in and see if they give me a new one then sell it, but for the labor involved in doing a clutch swap, and the fact that I have to battle time already having a full time job and being in graduate school full time, just swapping clutches every 5k miles is not something I can really dedicate myself to.
We will have to see over time if it's truly slipping...it may have been the tires breaking loose since there was a little moisture on the road. The 35R tends to do that occasionally
wasn't aware of your input shaft, in that case go for it!
lulz at WOT shifting a 35R powered car with a wet road
when you mod a car, especially at that level, you have failures.
what kind of power are you making with the 35R anyway?
lulz at the warranty comment too
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wasn't aware of your input shaft, in that case go for it!
lulz at WOT shifting a 35R powered car with a wet road
when you mod a car, especially at that level, you have failures.
what kind of power are you making with the 35R anyway?
lulz at the warranty comment too
Spare me the "when you mod a car at a certain level you have failures"...and birds fly. We get it - don't beat a dead horse.
I'm not complaining; I don't really care. The clutches made for these vehicles have been the bane of the automobile for years, so this is nothing new.
I have not been to the track nor dyno'd the car since the clutch/35R went in at the same time. Break in procedure was spot on.
Roads weren't wet, they were moist; i.e. intermittent patches of dew. It happens up here.
And yes, I'm not going to install anything that fails after 5k miles unless there's an extremely specific reason or fault for it doing so, especially something deemed as being "indestructible for most street cars." If this truly is slipping, my stock clutch held longer than this at a slightly reduced power level. I will know for certain this coming weekend when I do take it to the track.
What the hell is this install error, specifically with modular clutch systems? So long as you don't get oil or any other contaminants in the clutch itself, I don't see how you can install it incorrectly. A non-mod system is a different story, however.
SBS4 here...good so far (about 5k miles).
Not using correct torque specs, not using locktite, etc. etc. trust me you can still mess up the install
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We're talking about these exploding due to error, not vibrating because you didn't torque a bolt to spec or it backed out because you didn't use any threadlocker...
TTT... any more stories about SB Stage 3 modular clutches? So far, seems like the problem has almost always been with non-modular southbend clutches and or install error situations. So southbend modular stage 3 FTW?
sbc modular stg 5 here, it was a bolt issue that was fixed.. I pulled mine back out and put in the correct bolts, torqued them to specs from sbc... never had a prolem, 450whp, 6000rpm launches, wot shifts, 6700 rpm shift point, all on slicks... clutch still grabs great
Last thing i want is my clutch is to shoot around,idn what kind of fuckin excuse i can tell my dad if it ever did happen? He'll kick my ass out of the house
read the thread.. only 1 posted with a modular clutch problem, the rest were with non-modular
Well my stage 5 was modular and I had nothing but issues with it so I took it out and put a ACT in all my problems went away and no mine wasn't a bolt issue
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when you mod a car, especially at that level, you have failures.
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