jtm0n3y's tranny rebuild thread/how-to - Page 5 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #61 of 241 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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read that wrong...i see fork and i think 3/4 fork...sorry!
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post #62 of 241 (permalink) Old 05-23-2010, 06:59 PM
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So do you have this project fully completed? I was hoping to see some pictures of that nicely assembled tranny that is fully powdercoated

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post #63 of 241 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 06:42 AM
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I just pulled and reinstalled my internals after replacing the 3/4 synchro and 3/4 cluster. This is fairly simply in terms of having to remove bolts, but takes some patience and time. Very basic tools, and some common sense can save you big $$$.

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post #64 of 241 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 11:10 AM
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What all did you replace? Can you do a break down of parts? Also did you reuse any parts?

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post #65 of 241 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Everything I replaced is on the first page. I think the only thing i reused was the big snap ring on the bearing on the intermediate shaft because I did not replace anything on that shaft and in order to get a new snap ring you have to buy the bearing
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post #66 of 241 (permalink) Old 05-24-2010, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Tranny is done pictures have been taken. I have just been so busy. I'll get them up though this week! Shooting for tomorrow!
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post #67 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-14-2010, 07:12 PM
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Bump for the review please!!!!
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post #68 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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A review of how the trans functions during driving and racing conditions is going to take a few months yet...my motor is out of the car getting built probably wont be done until late august. Trust me i would put it back in the car tomorrow if I could!
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post #69 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 06:49 PM
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May I know why you did go with pwerks for the billet shaft instead the PTP?

I am trying to decide what route to choose.

Thanks.
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post #70 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locadio View Post
May I know why you did go with pwerks for the billet shaft instead the PTP?

I am trying to decide what route to choose.

Thanks.
ptp doesnt have a billet input shaft....they offer a treated stock input shaft if that is the one you are referring to.

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post #71 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-18-2010, 10:01 PM
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how much power will your build tranny hold?

Could you say is good as an STi tranny?
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post #72 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I have no personal experience with the better of the STI tranny's. This build should hold up fairly well. It's going to see close to 600hp. I have a few other tricks in the works on the backup tranny that i'm currently building which will make it even more reliable.

Driver ablilty has a lot to do with it as well...if you're constantly missing gears the tranny wont last...especially with notched synchros and blocker rings like i have in this build. When you grind a gear that's what you're feeling - the teeth on the gear grinding against the teeth on the blocker ring on the synchro. Notched synchros and gears become a catch 22 trade off...yes it takes stress off of everything but only if you can shift smooth and precise. If you miss you don't have as much material there to cover your ass.
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post #73 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 05:28 AM
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Awesome write-up dude! STICKY this post!!!

One question for you though. I have the smae PTP gearset thatyou bought minus the billet shaft. ANyways when I assemble 4th and 5th gear I have a lot of play in 4th gear which when installed makes a lot of noise. Did you notice this as well when installing the gears?

Also the shift fork ring on the synchro is very loose on the synchro at all times even when 3rd or 4th are selected. TO me it seems like there is to much free play in the synchro. I'm trying to figure out where all my noise is coming from. Any insight on this would be uber-helpful

Again awesome thread. So far you are the only one to show how to tighten the 5th gear nut. I went last night and got the biggest adjustale I could find on a whim and BOOM here you show it.

Last edited by Boost Leak; 06-27-2010 at 05:31 AM.
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post #74 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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I'm very glad this thread helped you out! As for the play in 4th and 5th gear are you SURE that 5th is pressed all the way on? There is a certain tolerance between the gears. I would say that if you grab third gear and move it back and forth between the thrust washer and the synchro you should have about 1/32th inch of movement.

This much movement only applies from the synchro down to the third gear (not where you problem lies, i know, just saying for general information) because of the snap ring holding the synchro in place. From the synchro up to 5th gear is a different tolerance, if there's as much movement as you say there is i would make sure fifth is pressed on the whole way and that it is pressed on in the correct direction.

The ring that the fork sets in on my synchro was fairly flimsy as well. If you have pics or even a video that I could see that would help a ton! Let me know...
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post #75 of 241 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 09:06 AM
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I'm going to reassemble the shaft tonight as I took it apart down to the 3/4 synchro to just check things over. Once I have it reassembled I"ll take a video of the things I think are the issues as I see them. 3rd gear has very little movement, it's more 4th gear that I'm worried about. I had it assembled once and it felt good unitl I noticed the 4th gear blocker ring was stuck inside 4th gear and it wouldn't come loose.

Thanks for helping me out with this too.
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