oop's maybe i should of read the clutch portion of skullingaxe's post....i guess that kinda answers my question....i'm wondering if its all these things combinded....syncro's throwout fork and clutch?.....its been hard to get into 1st and second gear since i brought the car? any info on that?
Hard engagement in 1st/Rev here. I have replaced slave cylinder /clutch master cylinder, clutch fork ,tob, pivot. It started happening about 4000 miles on a ptp stage 3 clutch. What is weird is that it drives fine just when I come to a stop and let off the clutch, I push the clutch back in to put it into first and it will not go in. I have to run it through other gears with clutch still pressed in before it will go into first smoothly. Im just gonna replace the tranny and clutch and be done with it!!!!
Hard engagement in 1st/Rev here. I have replaced slave cylinder /clutch master cylinder, clutch fork ,tob, pivot. It started happening about 4000 miles on a ptp stage 3 clutch. What is weird is that it drives fine just when I come to a stop and let of the clutch, I push the clutch back in to put it into first and it will not go in. I have to run it through other gears with clutch still pressed in before it will go into first smoothly. Im just gonna replace the tranny and clutch and be done with it!!!!
I was curious as to how yours made out. IM having the same issue with my PTP Stage 3 clutch. I found my master cylinder leaking so i put a new master and slave on it. Checked the TOB and clutch fork all good.
When you push the clutch in to go into first, if you let it sit there for a second and then try to put it in first or reverse does it go in? Im wondering if it has something to do with the feramic material on the flywheel side or if it is a bad pressure plate.
BTW is yours modular or non-modular with a LW aluminum flywheel?
I was curious as to how yours made out. IM having the same issue with my PTP Stage 3 clutch. I found my master cylinder leaking so i put a new master and slave on it. Checked the TOB and clutch fork all good.
When you push the clutch in to go into first, if you let it sit there for a second and then try to put it in first or reverse does it go in? Im wondering if it has something to do with the feramic material on the flywheel side or if it is a bad pressure plate.
BTW is yours modular or non-modular with a LW aluminum flywheel?
Bryan
Yes If you wait awhile it will go into first.
I have the modular.
If it is my clutch Ill be pretty pissed cause I just threw away $600
I now have 5000 miles on the clutch and come to think of it the red paint on the clutch was still wet when I got it. That should of been a sign of a rushed clutch. I have a transmission lined up but if you think its the clutch that is the problem Im gonna holla at john@ ptp
lmk if you have anymore info! We very well could have got a bad batch of clutches. The only thing is how could we prove the the clutch had defects
Mopar STG3 w/t, 3inch TBE,HKS turbo timer,QWFMIC,mopar blue plate special,soon to be swapped for an HKS,AGP W/G,and 30PSI guage.Mopar CAI,and AEROSPEED Catch can.FBM ported race combo, Fidenza flywheel,and a 6puck clutch
Soon to come..cams and ported S3 turbo and mani
Yes If you wait awhile it will go into first.
I have the modular.
If it is my clutch Ill be pretty pissed cause I just threw away $600
I now have 5000 miles on the clutch and come to think of it the red paint on the clutch was still wet when I got it. That should of been a sign of a rushed clutch. I have a transmission lined up but if you think its the clutch that is the problem Im gonna holla at john@ ptp
lmk if you have anymore info! We very well could have got a bad batch of clutches. The only thing is how could we prove the the clutch had defects
Hmm, did you check the master cylinder for leaking before putting it on?
The clutch should only take about 3 seconds to spin down before it stops. According to the service information that is. However that is for the stock clutch. Being that this is a "high performance clutch" the spin down time for the clutch may be longer due to the type of material used. Hense why it takes a few seconds for the clutch to stop spinning. (It takes about 7 or 8 for mine then it just flops right into first and reverse). A bent clutch disk could be the issue but if you have a modular clutch you cant check that. And its hard to with a Non-modular clutch disk. The clutch just has to be a couple thousandths of an inch warped then it will drag. When you had the trans out last time, did you notice any abnormal wear on the pressure plate fingers? Did the disk slide smoothly and freely on the input shaft?
Hmm, did you check the master cylinder for leaking before putting it on?
The clutch should only take about 3 seconds to spin down before it stops. According to the service information that is. However that is for the stock clutch. Being that this is a "high performance clutch" the spin down time for the clutch may be longer due to the type of material used. Hense why it takes a few seconds for the clutch to stop spinning. (It takes about 7 or 8 for mine then it just flops right into first and reverse). A bent clutch disk could be the issue but if you have a modular clutch you cant check that. And its hard to with a Non-modular clutch disk. The clutch just has to be a couple thousandths of an inch warped then it will drag. When you had the trans out last time, did you notice any abnormal wear on the pressure plate fingers? Did the disk slide smoothly and freely on the input shaft?
Bryan
I didn't notice any wear on the pressure plate fingers. I was also not really looking for the clutch to be the problem I was sure it was the tob fork.
As far as stabing the tranny it slid in ok.
I was curious as to how yours made out. IM having the same issue with my PTP Stage 3 clutch. I found my master cylinder leaking so i put a new master and slave on it. Checked the TOB and clutch fork all good.
When you push the clutch in to go into first, if you let it sit there for a second and then try to put it in first or reverse does it go in? I'm wondering if it has something to do with the feramic material on the flywheel side or if it is a bad pressure plate.
BTW is yours modular or non-modular with a LW aluminum flywheel?
Bryan
I just replaced my clutch release lever, t/bearing and pivot this past weekend (master cylinder replace a little while back due to leak). I have the clutch m/c rod adjusted all the way forward and still it's still slightly notchy going into 1st from a stop. Actually it's still not shifting as expected with all the parts that have been replaced. I have a slave cylinder from S&P that should be here Sat and still need to try crossover adjustment. I"ll report back with outcome.
I have the Mopar Performance clutch that I got used with approximately 15k on it and have added 10-15k myself.....
__________________
Gummybear One Lap Of Atlanta - 2008
Cannonball One Lap Of America - 2004/2005
SRT Nationals - 2004/2005/2006/2007/2008
"Problem Five: Clutch chatter...
Diagnosis: Our cars naturally have a lot of clutch chatter in first gear/ reverse. Its due to the sloppy gear train in the transmission."
I believe you're referring to gear chatter, which is more a characteristic of the straight cut gears (good thing) than the sloppy tolerances.
I must say I'm a bit disappointed if that's what my issue turns out to be. I suspected as much, but I'm still surprised given my driving habits. Anyone have any luck getting this problem covered under warranty?
I must say I'm a bit disappointed if that's what my issue turns out to be. I suspected as much, but I'm still surprised given my driving habits. Anyone have any luck getting this problem covered under warranty?
fuck no! your best bet is to buy a used transmission, mine is getting a new one on as i speak
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