How To: Install 3rd gear extender. - Page 5 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #61 of 200 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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I wish I could answer that for ya. Unfortunately I don't know the answer to that. I am sure someone will be able to answer that. It may take a few days though. You could call Pwerks and ask their opinion, it wouldn't hurt.

20G Stage 3 on E85: New data:384 hp 411 tq

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post #62 of 200 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by central_driver View Post
i dont have any problems with my 3rd gear as it was fixed by orginial owner like 10,000miles ago but should would it be a good idea to get the extender or is it just for people having problems with there 3rd gear. i no the 3rd gear is infamous for messing up. would this save my 3rd gear before it messes up down the road?
No. If it works fine you don't need the extender

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post #63 of 200 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 10:47 AM
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subscribd will be doing this when i install the billet shift selector

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post #64 of 200 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 08:15 PM
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First off, great how-to red. Everyone appreciates a good how to like this. The more how-to's the better.

However, to anyone considering doing this: If this is something that popped up out of the blue, the 3rd gear extender is only a band-aid for a bigger problem. Your shift fork, gear or syncro is worn and needs to be fixed. If you've always had this issue, the extender is indeed a possible solution and an excellent one at that. I believe even Pwerks will tell you this.

To the above poster: Billet Steel is very hard. Your shift forks are BRASS, a very soft metal. Your very hard gear selector pushes your very soft shift forks over your gears. If it isn't going in, the BILLET selector WILL DAMAGE YOUR SHIFT FORK. I don't know about you, but i'd rather replace a shift selector than a shift fork. You don't break shift sectors because your forks are too hard. You break them because you are shifting to hard or forcing your syncro into gear. It breaks for a reason. If it does not break, think about the added wear you are putting on your syncro and forks trying to force it into gear. You're just transferring the problem to another, more expensive area in your transmission.


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post #65 of 200 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scottphphq View Post
First off, great how-to red. Everyone appreciates a good how to like this. The more how-to's the better.

However, to anyone considering doing this: If this is something that popped up out of the blue, the 3rd gear extender is only a band-aid for a bigger problem. Your shift fork, gear or syncro is worn and needs to be fixed. If you've always had this issue, the extender is indeed a possible solution and an excellent one at that. I believe even Pwerks will tell you this.

To the above poster: Billet Steel is very hard. Your shift forks are BRASS, a very soft metal. Your very hard gear selector pushes your very soft shift forks over your gears. If it isn't going in, the BILLET selector WILL DAMAGE YOUR SHIFT FORK. I don't know about you, but i'd rather replace a shift selector than a shift fork. You don't break shift sectors because your forks are too hard. You break them because you are shifting to hard or forcing your syncro into gear. It breaks for a reason. If it does not break, think about the added wear you are putting on your syncro and forks trying to force it into gear. You're just transferring the problem to another, more expensive area in your transmission.
You are very welcome, and appreciation is appreciated.
I agree that it is only a band aid, but until I get the funds for new gearset items, its a pretty effective bandaid. My Transmission has seen a lot of abuse. I do see a problem though with the fork vs selector paradigm. If you use the same strength metals, if they see enough force, they will chip, however using a softer metal for one alleviates this. This is probably most commonly seen in sledge hammers and wedges for splitting wood. You can see the wedge deforms and mushrooms, but the hammer is undamaged. It's not a bad idea, however somethings gotta give. It is much easier to replace a shift selector than a shift fork, but if the selector breaks, where do the fragments go? Answer: down into the gearset between the input and intermediate shafts. You might wind up pulling the gearset just to fish out the shrapnel. In either case, I would probably pull the gearset to inspect it, in case a fragment of the selector damaged something. It's not fun at all, but at least we don't have to drop the trans for either procedure.

On a side note you said something interesting: "You're just transferring the problem to another, more expensive area in your transmission."

My dad and I had a lengthy debate over this when I broke my IS. I figured the collar that breaks off is a "weak point" and a billet shaft would be the fix. He felt that the collar where it broke is a "weak point" that allows one part to fail, in effort to save many other parts. Sort of the "sacrificial shaft." While the shaft becomes a martyr, the gearset survives, instead of being shredded off the shafts, and in the case of 2004 and 05 models, damaging the needle bearings. IDK if its true in the case f the IS collar, but I do feel that once you strengthen one part, you put additional stress on another. And vice-versa, once a part is weakened or fails, it puts stress on other parts too.

I rebuilt my input shaft in January, but due to all the stuff you need to replace, I didn't have the cash for a new synchro, so I opted out, and got the 3rd gear extender instead, a few months later. Does it work? Yes. How long do I have before my synchro fails? IDK.

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post #66 of 200 (permalink) Old 10-16-2011, 12:54 AM
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I was having the 3rd gear pop out issues and a crunch going into 3rd and going into 4th. I just finished installing a billet shift selector and extender. Changed the tranny fluid while I was at it and put some new bushings in there.

Took it for a test drive, everything seemed fine..........went WOT in second and shifted to third crunch WOT to fourth crunch. FML

So I am in the same place now but at least I know I have some cool little parts in my tranny. And I have the backache to prove it. I didnt take off the tranny mount and those seven bolts sucked. Especially the one under the weight.
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post #67 of 200 (permalink) Old 10-16-2011, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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The bolt under the weight can be a little bastard. I get it last with a gear wrench. I am sorry to hear you still have the "crunch." In your case, you may need something else replaced in the gearset. I would guess a synchro or two, but I am no expert.

20G Stage 3 on E85: New data:384 hp 411 tq

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post #68 of 200 (permalink) Old 10-16-2011, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 03RedSRT4 View Post
The bolt under the weight can be a little bastard. I get it last with a gear wrench. I am sorry to hear you still have the "crunch." In your case, you may need something else replaced in the gearset. I would guess a synchro or two, but I am no expert.
Doesn't matter. I need to beef up the tranny anyway. Nice how to by the way.
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post #69 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 02:24 PM
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I know this has been a dead thread for a few months now but how long with ratcheting tools and such does this typically take the first time around. I have air tools just need to fix my compressors pressure switch, dang thing flew apart on me.

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post #70 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 04:25 PM
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If it takes you longer than an hour something is wrong haha.
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post #71 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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If it takes you longer than 3 years something is wrong haha.
Edited for Josh

Okay, well it took me probably 2 hours, but it was my first time and I took a butt-load of photos. You wont need air tools, but ratcheting wrenches work well I couldn't live with out them.

The bolt of main concern is the bolt directly under the counterweight. My technique is get a wratcheting wrench, and do this bolt last. Put the box end on it and ratchet away. You will need to pop off the plate to be able to push the bolt down far enough to remove the wrench from between the hex and the weight. Once again, do this bolt last. It's also a good time to replace your shift cable bushings or shift selector, if you plan on them.

20G Stage 3 on E85: New data:384 hp 411 tq

"Maybe I should just stick to bolt-ons." -Hitler

I don't really want to wrench anymore. I'd rather detail.
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post #72 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 07:00 PM
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Cool deal. Yeah I'm putting the selector in and extender. I have a lot of automotive experience just not on this particular vehicle. All of my bushings are done already

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post #73 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 08:16 PM
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You'll be fine then...it's not a hard job at all.
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post #74 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 09:27 PM
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You'll be fine then...it's not a hard job at all.
Awesome thank you!

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post #75 of 200 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 12:41 AM
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isnt it only the 05 models that have the third gear issue?

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