Hard to shift when car is hot. Can I get a trans guru in here? - Page 4 - Dodge SRT Forum
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post #46 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 12:59 PM
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How-To: Braided Clutch Line

2005 SRT-4, hole in the block, rebuild in progress
2002 Camaro SS M6, It's alive!
2003 SRT-4 Sold!
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post #47 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-13-2012, 02:54 PM
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had the exact same problem after replacing the clutch with an aftermarket model. the pressure plate was the problem. I got a dud .
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post #48 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 07:33 AM
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RE: Hard shift when hot: If it IS heat related, & underhood temps ARE way over desirable, I'd be wanting to get as much of that hot air outa there as possible. Look at some of the Italian super cars & Ford's GT40s, & how they use heat extractors to vent heat out the top with the air pushing in from underneath, for instance. An old hotrodder's trick was to space the rear mounted hood hinges an inch or two, allowing the low pressure area at the cowl to pull in cold air at speed & let out heat at lower speeds, quasi cowl induction. Another old hotrodder's trick for custom looks while extracting heat was to have hoods louvered to let the heat out. I imagine you are feeding the engine cool air from outside, as we know that cool intake charges bring more hp. The rule of thumb was 1% more hp per 10 degrees cooler inlet air. Lower it by 100 degrees & gain 10%, which is actually HUGE for such a simple & inexpensive fix. Everything under the hood will last longer & perform better if you can lower those temps to nearer ambient. If you put that clutch in yourself, & you are comfy doing that job, I'd go ahead & pull it again to inspect for material transfer/seizure, and, since it DOES get so hot, make SURE to moly grease the splines. You DID do that upon assembly, right? Anyway, if there's no signs of damage, you could put your SS lines on upon reassemble & do bleed with a pressure or vacuum bleeder, and do switch over to the amsoil synthetic atf they make specifically for sticks, and DO as much as possible to lower the underhood temps, & you'll be off to the races. Another thought, we usually have electric fans sucking the heat outa da radiator & blowing it WHERE? Right onto the engine? Would be extra nice to duct THAT hot air out the top with ducting sealed to louvers in the hood. Sending it out the bottom would be putting it into the bottom of the engine, clutch, & trans, methinks. Ok, one more thought...most cars have a grillwork.area just forward of the wipers. On some of my cars, AMXs specifically, all I had to do was remover the wiper motor to let at least 1000 cfm of airflow to enter/exit the engine bay. About a 6" by 4" rectangular hole where the wiper motor had been. For those who MUST use wipers, a holesaw could be used. Form follows function?? Raising the rear of the hood for testing first may be the wisest choice, just be sure there's no way your hood can go airborne, it could kill someone. Cabling it to the chassis/body is not a bad idea anyway. Good luck all.
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post #49 of 63 (permalink) Old 12-14-2012, 08:47 AM
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From Popular Hot Rodding mag:

RAM Clutches | Tech Blog & Discussion at Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

RAM has pioneered a new clutch pedal adjuster (part No. 78300) that corrects the pedal height of all aftermarket high-performance clutch systems and OEM systems. It’s also designed to function with any OEM or aftermarket hydraulic clutch system and eradicates all concerns associated with the over-travel of the release bearings. (Release bearings with excessive travel can destroy the bearing or cause the clutch diaphragm to travel over center, resulting in high rpm engagement troubles.)

Compared with factory clutches , most modern high-performance aftermarket units require less travel to disengage. As a result, the pedal often sits higher than desired. In fact, the factory pedal could often benefit from a slightly lower position. Available for immediate delivery, the new Ram HSA (Hydraulic System Adjuster, priced at $138.95) tool is easily installed, and is adjustable.

Source: RAM Clutches 803-788-6034 RAM Clutches Online
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post #50 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 01:42 PM
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shadow did you solve the problem i have the same clutch and having the same issues it sucks living in the city were is go and stop let me know
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post #51 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, I haven't gotten around to doing the SS braided line. It's too cold here for my ass right now.

2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
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post #52 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 11:34 PM
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post #53 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Shit, I just remembered you texted me and told me to check what you posted. I just PM'd Nigel now.

Thanks Dan

2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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post #54 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 11:06 AM
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Shadow have you replace the (5037380AA) Gearshift Cable. I having same problems as you, I put new bushings on the links cables because one of mine was broke, but didn't resolve the problem. Only can think that the cable itself is bad.

My SRT-4 Mods: Who Cares is Just a Neon
"It doesnt matter how fast your car is when you cant drive for $#!t."
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post #55 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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The only reason I have not changed them yet is because the chance that it is the cables seems slim, due to the problem only occurring after the vehicle is up to operating temperature.

The last things on my list that I have not done externally are - Cables, and the SS braided line.

2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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post #56 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 08:10 PM
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I just got back from my friends house he is a mechanic, he adjust my clutch pedal now shifting fine. We also notice that my upper pipe is putting pressure on the slave cylinder, we realigned the best we could, {I got a JMB UPP is a tight fit}.

My SRT-4 Mods: Who Cares is Just a Neon
"It doesnt matter how fast your car is when you cant drive for $#!t."
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post #57 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like your fork is worn.

2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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post #58 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 12:45 PM
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Well after a few hours driving the problem started again.
my friend said it could be the clutch. I haven't done the fork or slave. this is frustrating.

My SRT-4 Mods: Who Cares is Just a Neon
"It doesnt matter how fast your car is when you cant drive for $#!t."
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post #59 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 09:36 PM
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Well I ordered a new ACT Clutch Kit from 2NRPARTS.COM, Fork and Pivot ball from Wikyd Performance, and also have a new slave and Master cylinder hope this will fix this problem.

My SRT-4 Mods: Who Cares is Just a Neon
"It doesnt matter how fast your car is when you cant drive for $#!t."
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post #60 of 63 (permalink) Old 05-01-2013, 09:22 AM
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OP have you done the SS LINE YET?
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