RE: Hard shift when hot: If it IS heat related, & underhood temps ARE way over desirable, I'd be wanting to get as much of that hot air outa there as possible. Look at some of the Italian super cars & Ford's GT40s, & how they use heat extractors to vent heat out the top with the air pushing in from underneath, for instance. An old hotrodder's trick was to space the rear mounted hood hinges an inch or two, allowing the low pressure area at the cowl to pull in cold air at speed & let out heat at lower speeds, quasi cowl induction. Another old hotrodder's trick for custom looks while extracting heat was to have hoods louvered to let the heat out. I imagine you are feeding the engine cool air from outside, as we know that cool intake charges bring more hp. The rule of thumb was 1% more hp per 10 degrees cooler inlet air. Lower it by 100 degrees & gain 10%, which is actually HUGE for such a simple & inexpensive fix. Everything under the hood will last longer & perform better if you can lower those temps to nearer ambient. If you put that clutch in yourself, & you are comfy doing that job, I'd go ahead & pull it again to inspect for material transfer/seizure, and, since it DOES get so hot, make SURE to moly grease the splines. You DID do that upon assembly, right? Anyway, if there's no signs of damage, you could put your SS lines on upon reassemble & do bleed with a pressure or vacuum bleeder, and do switch over to the amsoil synthetic atf they make specifically for sticks, and DO as much as possible to lower the underhood temps, & you'll be off to the races. Another thought, we usually have electric fans sucking the heat outa da radiator & blowing it WHERE? Right onto the engine? Would be extra nice to duct THAT hot air out the top with ducting sealed to louvers in the hood. Sending it out the bottom would be putting it into the bottom of the engine, clutch, & trans, methinks. Ok, one more thought...most cars have a grillwork.area just forward of the wipers. On some of my cars, AMXs specifically, all I had to do was remover the wiper motor to let at least 1000 cfm of airflow to enter/exit the engine bay. About a 6" by 4" rectangular hole where the wiper motor had been. For those who MUST use wipers, a holesaw could be used. Form follows function?? Raising the rear of the hood for testing first may be the wisest choice, just be sure there's no way your hood can go airborne, it could kill someone. Cabling it to the chassis/body is not a bad idea anyway. Good luck all.