1.) DEFINITELY put the SS hose on- you can take ANY late model crotchrocket w/stock front brake lines & do some panic stops. Switch over to SS & cut MANY feet off your stopping distance, that = LIFE -vs- DEATH!
2.) We know that everything expands as it heats up, all of those heated parts have grown a few thou, added up, equals further travel for sufficient clutch release. Many mechanical workarounds. AFTER switching to AMSOIL Synthetic trans oil, see Challenger 6-speed fixes for that AND the svc bulletin RE: molybdenum grease needed on input shaft splines bulletin being performed under wnty on those cars. One mechanical fix would be to drill a new hole in the pedal to give more travel to the slave. Another may be to use a master with a larger piston, perhaps a Challenger master? I haven't been into any of these, but also see to it that NOTHING can flex & reduce travel. If it's possible to get an eye or feeler gauge in there while hot, there should be a bit of clearance between the t/o brg w/clutch out & some clearance between the disc & flywheel w/clutch in. Maybe snake a borescope in there to look. Another item that MUST be taken into consideration is whether or not the bellhousing fits PERFECTLY, with the mainshaft entering the pilot bearing dead center. Chrysler engineering has put out some crap since the Chinese got their fingers in there & their beancounters are always trying to save a penny. Witness the loss of ALL NASCAR involvement on the heels of an OUTSTANDING season for Dodge. Those race engines & pieces are selling for pennies on the dollar now. 850-900HP for $10k or less. Hope I didn't do too mny typos, I can't scroll back on this tiny Android on screen keyboard without losing the cursor, permanently. One other option to add, since you DO reach racing temps, is to add SS hoses to the fill & drain plugs, an oil cooler, & an oil pump to circulate the trans oil. Maybe wire up a temp gauge first to legitimize the added expense. Which adds another dilemma, what IS generating the most heat? All three systems are bolted together & become one big heatsink, so a hot hot engine will end up heating up the clutch, more likely that than the trans heat. Between the SS slave hose, possible dry splines causing the disc to hang, & keeping the entire assembly cooler, this problem should be solved. Assuming there's no casting, machining, or other design or manufacturing flaws in the clutch system & parts used. This type of problem is known to virtually all lifetime motorcycle racers, before hydraulics we could ALL be seen dialing our handlebar clutch cable adjusters many times during races. Whether you gained slack or it got tight depended upon the clutch release design, pushrod -vs- lifter.
Awesome post! I don't know if you could find a master with a larger piston, I think it would be trial and error, for sure. Also whether or not it would help would be within question. I will be doing the SS line for sure as soon as I find time in my busy schedule.
If I had to guess, I'm thinking it's just heat generated from the engine, it's basically a giant sauna under the hood. Oh the joys of hydraulic systems!
Had a similar issue on my dads 03 PT. I replaced the slave and still the same issue. Check where the clutch pedal pivot bolt is located. you may have to loosen it and pull the pedal back toward the driver seat. Did that and the problem went away.
There is enough throw, I know that. The DCR rod, by nature, is longer than the stock one, so I have no worries as far as that is concerned.
That would help for a worn fork, not so much in this case, especially since this seems to be a problem with temperature.
When its warm and won't go into first, pump the clutch pedal hard 10+ times rapidly from top to bottom and see if it goes in.
I have tried this with no success.
^ Its random.
Sometimes it will go in like a charm, Sometimes it gets completely locked out. Even if you pump the pedal.
Yep. Dan has seen it, the car needs to be shut off to be put in reverse.
Has the slave been bleed?
It's a brand new MOPAR slave and master. I know it is pre-bled, but I did bleed it before installing. It's bled, that I am 110% sure of.