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Old 12-06-2012, 08:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Hard to shift when car is hot. Can I get a trans guru in here?

Here are the parts I have replaced to remedy and/or counteract the problem, alas the problem still exists.

ACT HDSS clutch
Mopar pivot ball
Rage-Tek shifter bushings
Rage-Tek billet pedal pivot
Maddog solid shifter base bushings
DCR modified TOB fork
DCR billet pushrod
Mopar slave and master cylinder

When the car gets hot, it is a bitch to get into gears at times, 1st and Reverse are virtually impossible. I usually have to shut the car off to put it in Reverse.

When the vehicle is cold, it goes in all gears no problem at all. This tells me the problem is heat related. I have flushed my transmission multiple times to find absolutely NOTHING unusual - No particles, or material at all what-so-ever.

I am at a loss and sick of throwing money at the car.

Quote: Originally Posted by tunerlover3 View Post
A point I wanted to make since Ive driven his car and noticed the issue too:

When you try to go into reverse you get locked out and you can feel the car bump itself back a little bit.

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Last edited by Shadow; 12-07-2012 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Go to a stainless steel clutch line, the stock plastic one gets soft when hot
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Funny you say that.. I was going to purchase the materials and do it, but I figured - My master and slave are less than 2 months old. How soft could a plastic line really get?

I'll observe it after my drive to work tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply!
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2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't know, I'm sure that clutch makes it more sensitive to heat though.

The previous owner put a heavy duty clutch in my cousins jeep cherokee and it did the same thing, it would get good and hot and the clutch wouldn't disengage at all. New master/slave/and line (looks like the same material as the SRT4 line). He gave up put a stock replacement pressure plate back in and its normal now. The stock line really didn't like that heavy duty clutch.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's funny. My gears are hard to get into when its really cold out haha. My clutch is on its way out though.


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Old 12-06-2012, 09:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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^Mine too, I assumed it was from the oil being thick as it clears up when the engine gets good and warm. Its sort of a bitch to drive like that, I'm glad I don't have to drive it in the winter
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I may just try that then. Like I said, the car shifts perfect when it's cold. I can go into all of the gears no problem. I don't mean cold outside, I mean the components on the vehicle are not up to operating temperature.

As soon as I take a nice drive, (to work for example), and everything gets up to temperature, it's a lost cause trying to get into gears - Especially those with a higher ratio like 1st and Reverse.
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2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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When my car got hot it wouldnt go into 1st and grind in 3rd. I bought the AGP 3rd gear extender from modern performance and that solved my issue. oh and i replced the pivot assembly with the rage one also bought from modern.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by yellow_66 View Post
When my car got hot it wouldnt go into 1st and grind in 3rd. I bought the AGP 3rd gear extender from modern performance and that solved my issue. oh and i replced the pivot assembly with the rage one also bought from modern.

I'm not grinding at all, and that extender doesn't with help reverse. Different issues here.

If you read, I have the pivot already.
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2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Like they said, stainless clutch line and be sure to run some good DOT4+ fluid.

Also if you have not done it try adjusting the crossover adjustment when everything is at opporating temperature... I know it sounds stupid but just try it.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 707 View Post
Like they said, stainless clutch line and be sure to run some good DOT4+ fluid.

Also if you have not done it try adjusting the crossover adjustment when everything is at opporating temperature... I know it sounds stupid but just try it.

Yep, I was almost a non-believer in the stainless clutch line, but at this point I can't think of anything else it could be, given the circumstances of when the problem occurs.

I have adjusted the crossover while at operating temperature a few times, not a stupid suggestion at all.

Thanks for the reply!
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2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 1guy2horses View Post
Yep, I was almost a non-believer in the stainless clutch line, but at this point I can't think of anything else it could be, given the circumstances of when the problem occurs.

I have adjusted the crossover while at operating temperature a few times, not a stupid suggestion at all.

Thanks for the reply!



I meant stupid as in alot of people adjust it when its cold, not realizing that when metal and oil for that matter heats up it swells and could slightly throw off the crossover. 90% of the time adjusting it cold works fine but that other 1 out of 10 cars... lol

And no problem man
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A point I wanted to make since Ive driven his car and noticed the issue too:

When you try to go into reverse you get locked out and you can feel the car bump itself back a little bit.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Did u get a new pressure plate along with the clutch? This might sound stupid but I seen it on a locals car with an act Hdss clutch. Shifted like butter when cold but impossible when hot. I had tried many basics before that such as cable and pedal adjustments ect. His tob fork was also new prior. New pressure plate sealed the deal.


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Old 12-07-2012, 11:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by tunerlover3 View Post
A point I wanted to make since Ive driven his car and noticed the issue too:

When you try to go into reverse you get locked out and you can feel the car bump itself back a little bit.

Added that to the first post! You can certainly feel that it wants to go into gear.

Quote: Originally Posted by badboydneon View Post
Did u get a new pressure plate along with the clutch? This might sound stupid but I seen it on a locals car with an act Hdss clutch. Shifted like butter when cold but impossible when hot. I had tried many basics before that such as cable and pedal adjustments ect. His tob fork was also new prior. New pressure plate sealed the deal.



Yep, brand spanking new kit from ACT.
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2005 PVK w/ GWA

Built motor & Ported head
Forward Motion E1 turbo
LCR ported & polished manifold (Werks elbow mod)
Tial 38mm wastegate
FIC 1100cc injectors
Werks modified Aeromotive 340 Stealth fuel pump
Powered by: E-85

Tuned by Dave, aka Duster360
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