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Old 12-09-2006, 12:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Flex plate to flywheel bolts... one time use only?

Is it neccessary to replace the 4 bolts that hold the clutch assembly to the flex plate with a clutch install?
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Old 12-10-2006, 12:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pimpazzberetta
Is it neccessary to replace the 4 bolts that hold the clutch assembly to the flex plate with a clutch install?

nott really , just use loctite
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Old 12-10-2006, 12:54 AM   #3 (permalink)
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According to the FSM yes you are required to replace them. Careful when installing them and removing them not to let the wrench slip, if it does I wouldnt reuse that bolt. Once its got a corner nicked on it its hard to break them free. Loctite and a caring hand, or spend the $7 and stop being cheap

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Old 12-10-2006, 12:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Pimpazzberetta
Is it neccessary to replace the 4 bolts that hold the clutch assembly to the flex plate with a clutch install?

do it man. replace them on day you might need a new tranny.
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Old 12-10-2006, 01:12 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by dodge2004srt4
According to the FSM yes you are required to replace them. Careful when installing them and removing them not to let the wrench slip, if it does I wouldnt reuse that bolt. Once its got a corner nicked on it its hard to break them free. Loctite and a caring hand, or spend the $7 and stop being cheap

Chris.

Where does it say that you need to replace them (the bolts)?
The FSM says the following:

FLEX PLATE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transaxle. Refer to 21 - TRANSAXLE
for procedure.
(2) Remove the flex plate attaching bolts (Fig. 86).
(3) Remove the flex plate (Fig. 86).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the drive plate on crankshaft (Fig. 86).
(2) Apply Mopart Lock & Seal Adhesive to flex
plate bolt threads.
(3) Install the flex plate bolts and tighten to 95
N?m (70 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 86).
(4) Install the transaxle. Refer to 21 - TRANSAXLE
for procedure.
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Old 12-10-2006, 01:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Replace them when doing the clutch. The dealer didn't on mine, and 89miles later on setting 0 in traffic it sheared off 2 of the 4 flexplate bolts. Their 12.9, big thin head, and have a special lock tight on them, just listen to me, one time torque to yield. First hand experience, imagine if I did a HOM run on the sauce, it would've been ugly!!!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...4d014d1f5f.htm
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Old 12-10-2006, 01:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by DDogsrt461BLK 3.0
Replace them when doing the clutch. The dealer didn't on mine, and 89miles later on setting 0 in traffic it sheared off 2 of the 4 flexplate bolts. Their 12.9, big thin head, and have a special lock tight on them, just listen to me, one time torque to yield. First hand experience, imagine if I did a HOM run on the sauce, it would've been ugly!!!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...4d014d1f5f.htm

Are you sure they are TTY bolts? I couldn't find anything in the FSM about the flex plate bolts being TTY and/or non-reusable.

There are many different product types offered by the Loctite brand and it may be difficult to know which is appropriate. The FSM explicitly mentions Mopart Lock & Seal Adhesive so that is what I would probably use. And of course, prepare the surfaces by cleaning with solvent to remove any oils to allow the adhesive to be effective. Probably needs some cure time as well.
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Old 12-10-2006, 02:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Simon.Starkie
Quote: Originally Posted by DDogsrt461BLK 3.0
Replace them when doing the clutch. The dealer didn't on mine, and 89miles later on setting 0 in traffic it sheared off 2 of the 4 flexplate bolts. Their 12.9, big thin head, and have a special lock tight on them, just listen to me, one time torque to yield. First hand experience, imagine if I did a HOM run on the sauce, it would've been ugly!!!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...4d014d1f5f.htm

Are you sure they are TTY bolts? I couldn't find anything in the FSM about the flex plate bolts being TTY and/or non-reusable.

There are many different product types offered by the Loctite brand and it may be difficult to know which is appropriate. The FSM explicitly mentions Mopart Lock & Seal Adhesive so that is what I would probably use. And of course, prepare the surfaces by cleaning with solvent to remove any oils to allow the adhesive to be effective. Probably needs some cure time as well.

Have you seen the bolts first hand. On mine they didn't replace them, and they broke in 89miles. A fresh new set, what do you know, money. Much like any important bolt, head, rod, are they one time torque to yield, I bet they probably don't tell you to reuse the head bolts. It's a bolt that If I'm in there, I'm replacing them. The lock tight they use is a special compound, that is dry to the touch and blue in color. You need that compound and bolt stretch to get the suggested torque. Maybe mine was a freak accident, but when I did my first gen modular clutch replacement, I bought new bolts, and had no worries. You decide, I'm replacing those 4 important bolts that hold the clutch to the flex plate!!!!!
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Old 12-10-2006, 02:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by DDogsrt461BLK 3.0
Quote: Originally Posted by Simon.Starkie
Quote: Originally Posted by DDogsrt461BLK 3.0
Replace them when doing the clutch. The dealer didn't on mine, and 89miles later on setting 0 in traffic it sheared off 2 of the 4 flexplate bolts. Their 12.9, big thin head, and have a special lock tight on them, just listen to me, one time torque to yield. First hand experience, imagine if I did a HOM run on the sauce, it would've been ugly!!!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...4d014d1f5f.htm

Are you sure they are TTY bolts? I couldn't find anything in the FSM about the flex plate bolts being TTY and/or non-reusable.

There are many different product types offered by the Loctite brand and it may be difficult to know which is appropriate. The FSM explicitly mentions Mopart Lock & Seal Adhesive so that is what I would probably use. And of course, prepare the surfaces by cleaning with solvent to remove any oils to allow the adhesive to be effective. Probably needs some cure time as well.

Have you seen the bolts first hand. On mine they didn't replace them, and they broke in 89miles. A fresh new set, what do you know, money. Much like any important bolt, head, rod, are they one time torque to yield, I bet they probably don't tell you to reuse the head bolts. It's a bolt that If I'm in there, I'm replacing them. The lock tight they use is a special compound, that is dry to the touch and blue in color. You need that compound and bolt stretch to get the suggested torque. Maybe mine was a freak accident, but when I did my first gen modular clutch replacement, I bought new bolts, and had no worries. You decide, I'm replacing those 4 important bolts that hold the clutch to the flex plate!!!!!


i with you. mine wasn't torqued down to spec and lock tight wasn't used, causing motor damage and tranny to go bad and flex plate. i was at 24-26psi of boost and around 400hp on full throttle when the flex plate came apart.
you dont want to end like my video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W50SpjPqOug
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Old 12-10-2006, 05:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by DDogsrt461BLK 3.0
Quote: Originally Posted by Simon.Starkie
Quote: Originally Posted by DDogsrt461BLK 3.0
Replace them when doing the clutch. The dealer didn't on mine, and 89miles later on setting 0 in traffic it sheared off 2 of the 4 flexplate bolts. Their 12.9, big thin head, and have a special lock tight on them, just listen to me, one time torque to yield. First hand experience, imagine if I did a HOM run on the sauce, it would've been ugly!!!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...4d014d1f5f.htm

Are you sure they are TTY bolts? I couldn't find anything in the FSM about the flex plate bolts being TTY and/or non-reusable.

There are many different product types offered by the Loctite brand and it may be difficult to know which is appropriate. The FSM explicitly mentions Mopart Lock & Seal Adhesive so that is what I would probably use. And of course, prepare the surfaces by cleaning with solvent to remove any oils to allow the adhesive to be effective. Probably needs some cure time as well.

Have you seen the bolts first hand. On mine they didn't replace them, and they broke in 89miles. A fresh new set, what do you know, money. Much like any important bolt, head, rod, are they one time torque to yield, I bet they probably don't tell you to reuse the head bolts. It's a bolt that If I'm in there, I'm replacing them. The lock tight they use is a special compound, that is dry to the touch and blue in color. You need that compound and bolt stretch to get the suggested torque. Maybe mine was a freak accident, but when I did my first gen modular clutch replacement, I bought new bolts, and had no worries. You decide, I'm replacing those 4 important bolts that hold the clutch to the flex plate!!!!!

I agree in principal with the idea of using new bolts and have suggested exactly that in the past. New bolts would seem to be cheap insurance compared to the higher costs of a new clutch, new tranny, labor that may be incured if these bolts come undone. But experts with 20 years experience were quick to point out that they have never used new bolts and in fact have always re-used the old bolts without any problem. Certainly the FSM implies it is OK to re-use the old bolts since it does not explicitly state that new bolts are a requirement.

As usual, preparation is crucial, especially cleaning the bolts with solvent to remove any oils to allow the adhesive to work effectively (and perhaps some cure time as well).

And of course, the proper TQ of 70 FT LBS is also important. I have heard that some 20-year experts don't bother using a TQ wrench. But not being an expert myself, I always use one.

So I guess I was lucky when my Mopar Performance Clutch was installed two years ago and they apparently reused the orginal flex-plate bolts.

Last edited by Simon.Starkie : 12-10-2006 at 05:38 AM.
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Old 12-10-2006, 06:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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i've reused the bolts 3 times so far, if they were tty, the spec would be 70 ft lbs + so many degrees, only reason they woukd need replaced is if you rounded off the heads, just use blue lock tight, oh, i've never found a torque wrench that could fit in there anyway, i just tighten the hell out of them and use lock tight.
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Old 12-10-2006, 05:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm not trying to be cheap, I'm trying to get the clutch install done and not knowing if I need new bolts are not is holding me up, due to the 5 day wait to get the bolts. It seems so far to be a 50/50 ratio for some saying dont use them, and some say it's ok. I too am having a problem finding a tq wrench that will fit in that limited space.

So anyone else want to chime in if you did or did not reuse the bolts.

I did some research about TTY bolts and I see no reason why they would use TTY bolts here.. and it would also be a multi step process to tighten these bolts...

"Tightening torque-to-yield bolts is done in several stages using a combination of torque and turning angle. First, the bolts are tightened to a low torque specification so that even clamping load is placed on the parts being assembled. Often, the bolts are tightened again to a slightly higher torque as a second stage. This is still a low enough torque that friction and stiction on the bolt threads affect tightening torque very little. Then each bolt is turned a specified number of degrees usually in two or three steps. For example, each bolt might be turned 90 degrees, then another 90 degrees and the tightening completed by turning a final 70 degrees. The clamping force exerted by the bolts is accurate and even."

Last edited by Pimpazzberetta : 12-10-2006 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 12-12-2006, 05:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If you have any doubt, just replace them and be done with it.
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Old 12-12-2006, 06:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I orderd new bolts, $8 for piece of mind.
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