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Old 05-25-2009, 05:00 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nsydr View Post
Did you use ACT TOB? Some are finding that the ACT TOB makes noise and when replaced with MOPAR TOB noise was less or completely gone. I just installed an ACT HDSS set up in mine and changed fork, installed mopar TOB, pivot ball and slave cylinder, I'll let you know if mine makes noise.

i installed the act tob with a new clutch fork lool
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I used he act tob :-(. I took out the acess panel by the slave cylinder and noticed when the noise is present the clutch fork is jumping all around, could that be the tob and fork possibly?
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:46 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Nsydr View Post
Did you use ACT TOB? Some are finding that the ACT TOB makes noise and when replaced with MOPAR TOB noise was less or completely gone. I just installed an ACT HDSS set up in mine and changed fork, installed mopar TOB, pivot ball and slave cylinder, I'll let you know if mine makes noise.

Yes please let us know. I have the DN4-XTSS that I am getting ready to install in a week or so. I am trying to decide to use the ACT TOB or buy a new OEM one.
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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On this thread there are at least two (maybe as much as four) different issues being described so please understand the differences as I posted before. Let's go over it again:

1. Chatter = rough engagement, not related to release bearing, but the choice of clutch parts, motor mounts, etc. Worst during initial take off in first when taking off gently. Common condition with puck discs regardless of solid or spring center and should be very minor with our street disc and usually improves once clutch is broken in.
2. Idle or decel noise = Gear noise, not related to release bearing, varies with rpm, load, gear selection, but goes away when clutch is fully disengaged. Caused by higher rate dampening spring within the disc, lighter flywheel or other increases in torsional vibrations from engine mods. Harmless but often mis-diagnosed as a release bearing or engine problem.
3. Possible release bearing noise - Occurs at any rpm, load, gear, etc but changes (improves or gets worse) when the clutch pedal is slightly depressed (not necessarily disengaged). Until very recently we sold the stock bearing in all our kits. The new bearing is identical and I haven't seen one failed yet.
4. Clutch arm interference noise - This condition occurs regardless of clutch brand, when the clutch pedal is near or at the floor and the arm hits the top of the pressure plate making a terrible metal scrapping sound. It is caused by the clutch arm and pivot ball being worn and needing replacement.
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Just put in the ACT DN4-HDSS (flywheel and street disc), Mopar TOB, new pivot ball, new TOB fork, and new slave cylinder with AMSOIL universal ATF. I made sure to grease pivot ball seat, TOB fork where slave cylinder rod hits, TOB center, and a lil on input shaft. Clutch grabs great, pedal pressure is much improved and provides good feed back, No rattles or noise. I hear more of the transmission esp during decel (which is normal with most aftermarket clutches). Absolutly no problems so far and am very happy with the clutch! Still going through break in period so the car has not seen more than a couple psi of boost and 3500 rpms tops.

EDIT - i can hear a small amount of "chatter" at idle and when taking off slowly in 1st. According to most this is normal during the break in period and gets a lil better when clutch is fully broken in. I don't mind the chatter, it's not loud... barely audible at idle... i have to really listen to hear it over my exhaust at idle and the only time it "chatters" in 1st is when i slowly ease out 1st which is expected. If i come out of 1st normal no noise. (I'm having to learn how to drive the car again since clutch engages where it should now instead of 1/2 inch off the floor )
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:04 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Very informative. Thought I should bring it to the top because this was so helpful with my ACT clutch issues.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by carscrash83 View Post
Very informative. Thought I should bring it to the top because this was so helpful with my ACT clutch issues.

So what was helpful?

Did you go with the OE TOB?

I'm looking at picking up a HDSS or XTSS.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:58 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I have the same issue and was starting to get nervous about it. I have a ACT clutch in it (not sure which one will have to check when I get home) I can hear I guess its like a rattle/clunky type noise coming from the trans when in neutral at stop lights. Press the clutch pedal in and it goes away. Can also hear a little bit of a noise when in gear but not giving it gas just coasting. I was thinking it is the TOB but didn't want to yank everything apart to replace a new part.
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Old 07-03-2012, 02:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I have had the same noises with my ACT Street clutch and boomba transmission mount, and was aware that it is normal. I do have one issue though that I am not sure about, and the Dodge in SD hasn't been able to figure out. When I first start up the car, first gear and all gears runs perfectly. It normally always does, but traffic is where I die a little inside. Usually in traffic, you are only inching forward a little at a time. The ACT street clutch obviously makes a bit of noise and rattle when engaging in first gear, but the issue is when I push in the clutch pedal again. The more I creep forward and cannot fully release the clutch, the more difficult it gets to shift, and ultimately, the clutch will begin to feel as though it is going to stall even with the pedal fully engaged. Putting the car in neutral is the only way not to stall, but then putting it in first or any other gear is near impossible. Not until I can drive in second gear will the problem go away, but then the car seems to be slightly more difficult to shift into first and reverse until the car is off and cools down for a bit.

I just had the clutch installed about 2k miles ago, and also replaced the slave cylinder (OEM) because it looked like there was a leak in the old one. The clutch engages beautifully most of the time, it is only in traffic when one has to move a little at a time staying in first gear that this problem occurs.

My thoughts:
I was thinking maybe the pedal is a little too low, and as the gears heat up, it gets more difficult to disengage without being in neutral. My question is, can the pedal be raised on this clutch setup? Will that possibly fix the problem? It seems heat related, but I really am not mechanically intelligent. I just like to drive. Thank you for any suggestions or questions. Feel free to ask away, I can help narrow down the symptoms for you.
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Old 07-04-2012, 06:10 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Khenry View Post
I have had the same noises with my ACT Street clutch and boomba transmission mount, and was aware that it is normal. I do have one issue though that I am not sure about, and the Dodge in SD hasn't been able to figure out. When I first start up the car, first gear and all gears runs perfectly. It normally always does, but traffic is where I die a little inside. Usually in traffic, you are only inching forward a little at a time. The ACT street clutch obviously makes a bit of noise and rattle when engaging in first gear, but the issue is when I push in the clutch pedal again. The more I creep forward and cannot fully release the clutch, the more difficult it gets to shift, and ultimately, the clutch will begin to feel as though it is going to stall even with the pedal fully engaged. Putting the car in neutral is the only way not to stall, but then putting it in first or any other gear is near impossible. Not until I can drive in second gear will the problem go away, but then the car seems to be slightly more difficult to shift into first and reverse until the car is off and cools down for a bit.

I just had the clutch installed about 2k miles ago, and also replaced the slave cylinder (OEM) because it looked like there was a leak in the old one. The clutch engages beautifully most of the time, it is only in traffic when one has to move a little at a time staying in first gear that this problem occurs.

My thoughts:
I was thinking maybe the pedal is a little too low, and as the gears heat up, it gets more difficult to disengage without being in neutral. My question is, can the pedal be raised on this clutch setup? Will that possibly fix the problem? It seems heat related, but I really am not mechanically intelligent. I just like to drive. Thank you for any suggestions or questions. Feel free to ask away, I can help narrow down the symptoms for you.

I just put in the DN4-HDSS last week and I have the same issue as you it sounds like. I was told this clutch would be OK for traffic but now I'm not sure. I also put in the DCR clutch pedal push rod because my stock one broke, I had to adjust it all the way up just to get this clutch to engage. Like you, most of the time it goes in just fine but it seems like if it gets heated then it becomes more difficult. With my clutch pedal being adjusted as far as it can back I'm kind of worried since I cannot adjust it back any further. And also for some reason my car runs hot now and it never did before (~220-240F).
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:40 PM   #26 (permalink)
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The gear noise is normal, it's something that you would have read about if you researched your purchase. If the clutch goes in and the noise stops then your good... If you keep hearing it with the clutch in then your not good... Hell i can remember when I first got my ACT clutch in and I let the car warm up to change the oil.. I thought the damn car was gonna die because it almost sounds like valve noise.. It stopped with the clutch engaged though so no biggy..

Chatter is best described on a pucked clutch that's not broke in, it's the bump, bump, bump when your engage your 6 or 4 puck clutch and does go away in about 500 miles.. till this day the only issue i had with my act clutch was sitting in 5 o'clock rush hour Houston traffic without it being fully broken in... Makes you want to rip someones head off lolz.. but it really shines while cruising a little spiritedly and makes super crisp shifts...
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:44 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Neon Nick View Post
I just put in the DN4-HDSS last week and I have the same issue as you it sounds like. I was told this clutch would be OK for traffic but now I'm not sure. I also put in the DCR clutch pedal push rod because my stock one broke, I had to adjust it all the way up just to get this clutch to engage. Like you, most of the time it goes in just fine but it seems like if it gets heated then it becomes more difficult. With my clutch pedal being adjusted as far as it can back I'm kind of worried since I cannot adjust it back any further. And also for some reason my car runs hot now and it never did before (~220-240F).

You need to break it in... It will engage like normal once it's broke in I promise.. The only thing different will be clutch petal feel and it won't slip. The initial harsh engagement may have helped jar something loose look over your coolant lines..
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:23 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yeah, I have at least 2k miles on my clutch now, so I can at least cancel out the wear in period. The clutch feels wonderful though, I love it in the higher RPMs. I'm waiting for Uturner to post his results with his possible solution to the problem. Something about the hydraulic line being worn and causing inconsistencies when everything heats up. If it works for him, I'll give it a shot.
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Old 07-05-2012, 04:24 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by Yukon Cornelius View Post
You need to break it in... It will engage like normal once it's broke in I promise.. The only thing different will be clutch petal feel and it won't slip. The initial harsh engagement may have helped jar something loose look over your coolant lines..

I hope you're right about the break-in, it's only been 200 miles and mostly highway but it happened again today where I was getting off the highway and then it was very hard to shift, pretty annoying...
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:29 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I just put in an HDSS kit from Modern and the chatter is quite bad. I'm using clutch chatter in the appropriate sense, not to whine about my crappy noisy Dodge transmission like others in this thread.

I'm about 2 tanks of gas in - please tell me the engagement will improve.
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