Well crap I hate when I just get blown off like that. Kinda of angering but whatever.
The chrysler engineer is Ed Peters, head of the failure research lab, I have his personal number and email and can call him whenever I want. ALL my oil data comes from him, as well as about 3/4 of my technique on rebuilding. Some of the techniques I use I would never even thought of without his help. He is the MAN when it comes to motors, oils, racing, hell anything from Chrysler. He helped design the superbird, the omni GLH, , the daytona turbos, the viper, the lebaron turbo, the SRT-4, the neon ACR, the NVT350 trans, etc, etc. He was instramental in setting up the original SCCA neon racing series, dealer support and parts setups. He ran the bonnevilee racing efforts for land speed records. Hell if it was even thought of being raced it was ran past Ed. After retiring he started Magnum force engineering, which is still in business.
Just from ALLPAR's Site: Search Results - Asterpix Searchlight ... 19b9c07d9f
or even more telling, google: ed peter - Google Search ... tartPage=1
Anyway, yes oil wieghts are different from transmission fluids to motor oils. His numbers are correct. I never said the other oils are twice as heavy I just put the SAE weighting numbers in so no one would use them. If I went off on a tangent about differing weights, SAE, API certs, differences between Euro specs and the SAE specs, we would have Bob is the Oil Guys page, and that has thousands and thousands of posts! I simplified for ease of understanding.
Redline, Valvoline, royal purple, and amsoil all make a super light racing gear oil that has almost the same viscosity index as motor oil and the mopar fluid. I guess I should of put in that never use motor oil over 40 weight or any normal gear oil over 70. Ah Hindsight is 20/20. M1 and valvoline make excellant oils that have all the correct specs and additives.
Research never hurts anyone. Before I rebuilt my own transmission with the 4.12, quaife and challenge car setup I researched for 6 straight months about what I might have to do. Right after I finished it I was contacted by Ed who explained a ton to me. I learned more from him in a week of phone conversations with him than I had in the entire 6 months before that. I have literally pages and pages of notes from the conversations, that I still go back through. I still learn new things from many different sources daily. A day I don't leanr something is a poor day indeed.
Oils that meet Chryslers specifications for transmission fluids.(most say they are rated at 70 weight as gear oil and 30 weight as engine oils, right on their respective main pages for anyone to see.):
I will however stick to my guns on M1HM10w30, while I have used it succesfully for several years on 2 cars and several race trasnmissions, Ed has used it for a very very long time on many many cars and many differing types of racing. Bang for the buck it wins hands down.
Dave
LDRT
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Only a 8 year project and going...Still my Daily Driver! 4.12 FD with 1st gen ACR Challenge Car case & guts with quaife
I am tired of PMing him back and forth, so if you have any questions, PM him on neons.org.
I am tired of PMing him back and forth, so if you have any questions, PM him on neons.org.
I never asked you to PM him in the first place, so feel free to stop at anytime.
Ed Peters I have actually met through my place of work before he retired. Ed knows his stuff.
Dave on the other hand, I still don't think he knows much about oils. In his first post he clearly implies that you should not use gear oil because it is rated above a 40 weight motor oil.
Again he said...
Quote: Originally Posted by Dave
NEVER EVER use any oil weighted higher than 40, it is too thick and will not get flung up on the passive oiling ramps to reach the shafts or synchros. Most gear oils for transmissions are in the 75-125 weight range.
He is clearly comparing 40 to 75-125 with no explanation that the numbers can not be compared to each other. Now he says that's not what he meant. I don't think he knew that at the time he wrote the first post and now he's trying to cover it up.
Oh well.
Can this be used in a 98 neon with atx sohc? I drive it 250+ miles a day (I'm a delivery driver). I drive it pretty hard and sometimes up to 90mph on the highways. Would it be bad to use mobile one high mileage, or should I stick with ATF+4?
Quick thread jack... Last time I changed my trans fluid, I used the Mopar ATF-4, and they had me also add this other stuff. They said it was because of my LSD diff.
The ZINC stuff everyone is talking about, (the firction modifier) that is different right?
For example, if I were to buy the Mobile-1 high mileage with the zinc in it, I'd still need to add that LSD "magic juice" right??
Any info would be great/
Thanks guys!
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05' Stone White / 17X7.5 Kosie K-1s / 12.2" Wilwood BBK (Dynalites) / Stage 2 IPP Coilovers / Energy Suspension full chassis bushings / Custom Built Boost Leak Tester!
Can this be used in a 98 neon with atx sohc? I drive it 250+ miles a day (I'm a delivery driver). I drive it pretty hard and sometimes up to 90mph on the highways. Would it be bad to use mobile one high mileage, or should I stick with ATF+4?
I would just stick with the Mopar ATF-4 if it were me...
Quick thread jack... Last time I changed my trans fluid, I used the Mopar ATF-4, and they had me also add this other stuff. They said it was because of my LSD diff.
The ZINC stuff everyone is talking about, (the firction modifier) that is different right?
For example, if I were to buy the Mobile-1 high mileage with the zinc in it, I'd still need to add that LSD "magic juice" right??
Any info would be great/
Thanks guys!
The LSD additive was put in 2004 and 2005 models because of the LSD in the trans, where the 2003 did not have one. The LSD is clutchless so the additive is only there to minimize gear noise and it not needed. Many people run without the LSD additive, though I do believe that the additive does change the slipperiness of the fluid, thus causing the synchros to engage differently than a fluid without the additive.
I have run Amsoil ATF for 100,000 trouble free miles.
I change it out evry 25,000 or soo,
& i have never seen my trans. temp. gauge read higher than 170deg. & that was after an extended high speed summertime run.
you do it just like the other side. there is a how to, to add more guage pods
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