ACT called me and this was resolved. No finger pointing was involved. In fact, I am running a ACT nonmodular clutch with a 6 puck race disk and the car is a charm. I've already smoked a corvette and the car is holding over 500whp. Next week the big test is 600whp in preparation for NOPI-ATL.
Quote: Originally Posted by SoloDogg
Quote: Originally Posted by RUSH
Still awaiting phone call.
I'm curious if you ever got a phone call about this or not. The clutch I installed a few months back is STILL making this noise...and will not fully disengage, which makes 3rd gear shifts a pain in the ass. I spoke with ACT via pm when we first started having this problem, and of course they offered no help in this matter what so ever, other than to say install error. Amazingly enough, we have installed an ACT modular clutch into another car, and had no issues at all with that clutch...so what gives?!??! This is not install error..there is a problem with the clutch setup somehow.
__________________
TK Motorsports "Building Horsepower Dreams"
**RIP Tim Kim**
Tele: 706-288-9203
Website: WWW.TKMOTORSPORT.COM
2005 SRT-4 (603whp race gas at 28 psi/535whp pump gas at 22 psi). No spray!!!
2008 Lexus IS350 (stock besides exhaust)
2006 Ram SRT-10 Reg Cab
Another Quick Question Then, HOW DO YOU Bleed the clutch ? I Put in my spec satge 3 and the slave cylinder handle snapped , i had to replace it , now i have no clutch . Does anyone know how to bleed it? Help , i have no car now until i figure this out.
Ok, so recently after my tranny tear down thread, i've been swamped with PMs about tranny issues and clutches.
Now I want to start a thread in where guys can put in their .2 cents about their issue and possibly we can come to an understanding on whats going on here with the SRT-4 clutch/hydraulic system design.
The most popular going around is the disengagement issue/Hard shifting.
The most valuable thing you can own is the PL/SRT FSM, go out and get one.
Now according to the book this is what is says:
HARD SHIFTING
Hard shifting may be caused by a misadjusted crossover cable. If hard shifting is accompanied by gear clash, synchronizer clutch and stop rings or gear teeth may be worn or damaged.
Hard shifting may also be caused by a binding or broken shift cover mechanism.
Remove shift cover and verify smooth operation. Replace as necessary.
Misassembled synchronizer components also cause shifting problems.
Incorrectly installed synchronizer sleeves, keys, balls, or springs can cause shift problems.
SLIPS OUT OF GEAR
Transaxle disengagement may be caused by misaligned or damaged shift components, or worn teeth on the drive gears or synchronizer components. Incorrect assembly also causes gear disengagement. Check for missing snap rings.
CLUTCH PROBLEMS
Worn, damaged, or misaligned clutch components can cause difficult shifting, gear clash, and noise. A worn or damaged clutch disc, pressure plate, or release bearing can cause hard shifting and gear clash.
can anyone explain this...say i have it in first or second and the rpms about 2-3...after i let off the gas the car engine brakes...and the exhaust sounds amazing...but i hear a tapping from the clutch...atleast i think its the clutch....its the same sound i hear when i push the clutch in n out just messin around...is this sound normal...or do i need a new clutch?
so i was driving home in the rain about a week ago and hit a huge puddle in the road. Once i stopped at a light and went to go i had a really loud squealing noise as if a belt was wet. The noise continued for 2 days and actaully increased. On the third day i did some toolin around and noticed that the noise would only start once i hit 2k rpms and the noise would go away if i pushed the clutch in. Well after a cpl runs down the interstate under wot the nosie just randomly went away. Now today i installed my stage 2 and after a 3rd gear pull as i came to a stop and started to go again the sound came back but now its a very low squeal and can only be heard in 1st n 2nd gear. After talkin with some people and telling them the sound goes away when i push the clutch in they think that when i hit the puddle, or lake, w/e u wanna call it.. that the clutch got water on it and possibly warped? i was wondering if anyone could confirm this or give their thoughts on the noise. Kinda dont want to take it to a dealership as i just installed my stg2 kit today.
I have a 2003 SRT4 and recently replaced my clutch with a SPEC SD-842 Stage II clutch. I am experiencing a strange grinding/vibration when I push the clutch all the way to the floor. It sounds like a mini-jackhammer, or a fan when something is stuck int it.
I can feel the vibration coming from the pedal. There is no grinding or vibration coming from the gearbox, and the gears shift smoothly.
My mechanic, who installed it, was unable to detect the problem and questioned as to whether the new unit is a direct replacement for the stock clutch. He did notice that the fingers on the pressure plate were pitched slightly higher than the stock clutch. I contacted the outfit from which I purchased the clutch, JSC Speed, and they assured me it was correct for my car.
The car seems to shift okay and I can avoid this grinding as long as I dont go all the way to the floor with the clutch pedal. The car is stock otherewise. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
Curious to no if you resolved this problem and what it was i am getting the same symptoms cant stand it anymore...
would appreciate the help
__________________
FONT="Georgia"]MM Steering Wheel, Dual Pod, Tints, Mopar tail lights, Mopar STS, Eibach Springs, G-Reddy CC, Prothane MM, Fan Mod, AGP Plug and Wire kit, AEM SRI, Custom 3" DP/Exhaust, AEM Wideband, AGP Fuel Kit, Hard Pipes, G-reddy bov, MPx fmic, 30psi Gauge, 180 Stat, Powerslot Rotors, Techna Brake Lines, DC Strut Bars, AEM Tru Boost, ACT Street Clutch, Prothane SB Kit, BB50TRIM, Konig Prophets 18", Toyo PX4 .
well the other night leaving work i was doing 45. i went to down shift from 5-4-3- when i went to go into 2nd it would not go, i slowed down to 15 to get into 2nd and then it popped in. after that i could not do a damn thing. there was no burnt clutch smell, nothing. took it to dodge and they said bad clutch and 1147 will fix it. i call bs. i took my car out of there because i know people that will do it for 600 and a little less. my car whistles in N and when i go to put it in 1st it moves before it get it in. when i force it in it pops in and then stalls. i was told it could be that the brace that holds the cable is lose and thats why. anyone else have this and if so what was the verdict?
well the other night leaving work i was doing 45. i went to down shift from 5-4-3- when i went to go into 2nd it would not go, i slowed down to 15 to get into 2nd and then it popped in. after that i could not do a damn thing. there was no burnt clutch smell, nothing. took it to dodge and they said bad clutch and 1147 will fix it. i call bs. i took my car out of there because i know people that will do it for 600 and a little less. my car whistles in N and when i go to put it in 1st it moves before it get it in. when i force it in it pops in and then stalls. i was told it could be that the brace that holds the cable is lose and thats why. anyone else have this and if so what was the verdict?
well the other night leaving work i was doing 45. i went to down shift from 5-4-3- when i went to go into 2nd it would not go, i slowed down to 15 to get into 2nd and then it popped in. after that i could not do a damn thing. there was no burnt clutch smell, nothing. took it to dodge and they said bad clutch and 1147 will fix it. i call bs. i took my car out of there because i know people that will do it for 600 and a little less. my car whistles in N and when i go to put it in 1st it moves before it get it in. when i force it in it pops in and then stalls. i was told it could be that the brace that holds the cable is lose and thats why. anyone else have this and if so what was the verdict?
so starting saturday it was getting hard to put into gear. if i am at a dead stop i cant get it in gear and when i try to put it in gear i hear a "clunk" sound and it wont go. so i turn the car off, push in the clutch, put it in first, hold clutch in and start the car. when the car starts it is kinda "bucking" like it is barely grabbing and wanting to go. if i rev the car up the car moves forward maybe an inch. so i get going and in order to shift gears i have to push the clutch in and let the revs drop a little so that it is around the right rpm's for the speed i am going in that gear and then it kinda "notches" into gear. its like when i push in the clutch it isnt totally engaging. i adjusted the pedal as far out as i could and that didnt make a difference. is it just time for a new clutch or what? just looking for some input and maybe some good links for good prices on a new clutch. things are tight for me right now with a new baby in the house. HELP!!!
Hopefully someone can help. I had never had any problems with my clutch till the other day. I was driving and all of a sudden it was hard to shift into and out of gears. I stopped and worked thru the gears a bit, still hard. Then I was able to go thru all the gears just fine, but when i went to move again the car didn't move and just revved as if I was holding the clutch in, or had the car in neutral. The problem stayed and I am not able to move the car.
I had the same exact problem,, the only difference is smoke was coming out of the clutch area..
i took it to the dealer, and of course they didnt fix it, they wanted $700 canadian for a stock clutch.. Since i am going to park the car for the winter i said the fck with them..
I am currently looking for a good clutch to put in it.. Clutch master 6 puck double friction looks to be best for now.. any comments on this
must be nice...ACT immediately wanted to point fingers in our case...and has not offered any resolution at all. How amazing.
I had to go look back at my PM's but I don't see where I was pointing fingers at anyone. Since I couldn't diagnose the problem over the keyboard without seeing the car or the parts I couldn't offer a resolution. I don't see how that is amazing. As I said in one of my messages (11 in all), on the forum I have seen issues with the arm hitting the cover on other various clutches, but I don't really know the cause so I am not sure of the fix. On the initial install we did here at the shop there was plenty of clearance, so I am at a loss. Most of our customers report that the release point is fairly high, but you say that yours isn't. We can certainly test the parts to make sure they are right, but I am not sure that we are going to find anything judging by others with similar issues on other clutches. I am not sure where a good SRT shop is in your area to check it out, if any. I wish I could check out your car myself, but that is not an option. Call us and get an RGA number if you want us to test the parts. I am not sure what else to recommend or what else you are expecting.
__________________
Dirk Starksen
President
Advanced Clutch Technology Inc.
2 months later and I finally get a reply? You've got to be kidding me!
This isn't a single person problem...this is many people having this problem. Look all over this website, aftermarket clutches are known to have problems with rubbing on the release arm. Plain and simple, this clutch was not built to the proper tolerances...and your fix for it is to "test" the equipment, thus leaving the car down in the meantime? I think not...not on a daily driven vehicle. And how exactly do you test without having the car to see exactly what's going on??
It's a shame that you guys don't make the modular clutch anymore. I've never seen a problem with those...
take it to another dealership.. You can take your srt-4's to any other dealership.. You dont have to take it in to where you bought it.. I take mine to a Chrysler Jeep ever since Dodge kept tryna rip me off and did half ass work everytime I went in that bitch.. They tried to put a shot 2nd gear synchro on the clutch, saying "my car was undrivable and that a new clutch without install would cost 1500.." . I was like yeah right.. Took it in a chrysler dealership and BAM... new tranny.
i have problems getting in 1st and second gear,i've had this problem since i first got the car....now that i have the sts its even hard to get into gear....it mainly does it in 1st when rolling to a stop and putting it in before you stop>>you have to force it and sometime it just locks out...you have to come to a complete stop then put into gear.....and second gear is just rough to get in....maybe once it locked out.....this is really annoying and its intermitting so everytime i bring it in...dodge says its fine......any info would be great......
p.s on the cable to the shifter.....just before the bushing theres a nut that you can adjust....that wouldn't do notting would it?
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.