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Old 06-11-2006, 05:38 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by trager
Now, I have a different issue. The clutch does not fully disengage. I adjusted the pedal all the way I could. I have also put in a new slave clyinder and filled and bled the clutch fluid. I cannot get the car in to reverse with the car running. It is also very hard to get it in to 1st gear as well. When it is in 1st gear, with the clutch pedal on the floor, the car inches forward similar to an automatic tranny. When I come to a stop with it in gear, the car shakes as if it is trying to move. I also noticed there is a white creamy kind of stuff floating in the clutch fluid resivoir. It seems like a white lithium grease floating around.

I would really appreciate some help trying to figure out what is wrong with my car. Thanks guys!

You will probably never get the answer to what is wrong , their is alot of people on here with the same exact problem if you do a search , but nobody got it fixed , I gues they just park the SRT & drive something else & wait on a miracle , good luck finding the answer .
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Old 06-11-2006, 07:09 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 2.4TURBOMAN
Quote: Originally Posted by trager
Now, I have a different issue. The clutch does not fully disengage. I adjusted the pedal all the way I could. I have also put in a new slave clyinder and filled and bled the clutch fluid. I cannot get the car in to reverse with the car running. It is also very hard to get it in to 1st gear as well. When it is in 1st gear, with the clutch pedal on the floor, the car inches forward similar to an automatic tranny. When I come to a stop with it in gear, the car shakes as if it is trying to move. I also noticed there is a white creamy kind of stuff floating in the clutch fluid resivoir. It seems like a white lithium grease floating around.

I would really appreciate some help trying to figure out what is wrong with my car. Thanks guys!

You will probably never get the answer to what is wrong , their is alot of people on here with the same exact problem if you do a search , but nobody got it fixed , I gues they just park the SRT & drive something else & wait on a miracle , good luck finding the answer .

yea i have been driving my metro around for over a month now.....
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Old 06-12-2006, 06:58 AM   #48 (permalink)
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I may have found something out... I was looking around on a DSM forum and I found a bunch of people having the same problem as myself and many others. The deal was they were all running aftermarket clutches that had stronger pressure plates. Everyone tried to adjust the pedals out as far as possible and still haad problems with disengagement. One way that people found to fix this wa to extend the arm of the slave cylinder a little bit. I even found a company that sells longer arms just for that purpose. The ones you can buy are 1/4 inch longer than normal. Some people even used a 3/8 to 1/4 inch reducer (for a ratchet). I haven't had the time to try to play around with this idea but I think it may be able to be applied to our cars. I was thinking about threading the end of the stock arm and threading on an extension that would adjust like out adj. WGA's. Let me konw what you guys think.
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:51 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by trager
I may have found something out... I was looking around on a DSM forum and I found a bunch of people having the same problem as myself and many others. The deal was they were all running aftermarket clutches that had stronger pressure plates. Everyone tried to adjust the pedals out as far as possible and still haad problems with disengagement. One way that people found to fix this wa to extend the arm of the slave cylinder a little bit. I even found a company that sells longer arms just for that purpose. The ones you can buy are 1/4 inch longer than normal. Some people even used a 3/8 to 1/4 inch reducer (for a ratchet). I haven't had the time to try to play around with this idea but I think it may be able to be applied to our cars. I was thinking about threading the end of the stock arm and threading on an extension that would adjust like out adj. WGA's. Let me konw what you guys think.

I don't think that would work well at all considering the further out you adjust the pedal the closer it is to the dash & it would take longer to press the pedal all the way down & your knee might hit the steering column .
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:05 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 2.4TURBOMAN
Quote: Originally Posted by trager
I may have found something out... I was looking around on a DSM forum and I found a bunch of people having the same problem as myself and many others. The deal was they were all running aftermarket clutches that had stronger pressure plates. Everyone tried to adjust the pedals out as far as possible and still haad problems with disengagement. One way that people found to fix this wa to extend the arm of the slave cylinder a little bit. I even found a company that sells longer arms just for that purpose. The ones you can buy are 1/4 inch longer than normal. Some people even used a 3/8 to 1/4 inch reducer (for a ratchet). I haven't had the time to try to play around with this idea but I think it may be able to be applied to our cars. I was thinking about threading the end of the stock arm and threading on an extension that would adjust like out adj. WGA's. Let me konw what you guys think.

I don't think that would work well at all considering the further out you adjust the pedal the closer it is to the dash & it would take longer to press the pedal all the way down & your knee might hit the steering column .

If you put a longer arm on the master cylinder, I think that would be the case. But, if you extend the slave arm, I think it would be the opposite. You could then adjust the pedal height to be where it should be instead of having it so high like most of us currently have it. I have an extra slave laying around somewhere so maybe I'll just try it out and let everyone know how it works. Now you got me thinking though...I'm not sure how it will react.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:24 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by trager
Quote: Originally Posted by 2.4TURBOMAN
Quote: Originally Posted by trager
I may have found something out... I was looking around on a DSM forum and I found a bunch of people having the same problem as myself and many others. The deal was they were all running aftermarket clutches that had stronger pressure plates. Everyone tried to adjust the pedals out as far as possible and still haad problems with disengagement. One way that people found to fix this wa to extend the arm of the slave cylinder a little bit. I even found a company that sells longer arms just for that purpose. The ones you can buy are 1/4 inch longer than normal. Some people even used a 3/8 to 1/4 inch reducer (for a ratchet). I haven't had the time to try to play around with this idea but I think it may be able to be applied to our cars. I was thinking about threading the end of the stock arm and threading on an extension that would adjust like out adj. WGA's. Let me konw what you guys think.

I don't think that would work well at all considering the further out you adjust the pedal the closer it is to the dash & it would take longer to press the pedal all the way down & your knee might hit the steering column .

If you put a longer arm on the master cylinder, I think that would be the case. But, if you extend the slave arm, I think it would be the opposite. You could then adjust the pedal height to be where it should be instead of having it so high like most of us currently have it. I have an extra slave laying around somewhere so maybe I'll just try it out and let everyone know how it works. Now you got me thinking though...I'm not sure how it will react.

OK , I read it wrong the first time , I thought you where talking about the master cylinder , that might work on the slave cylinder .
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:42 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by 2.4TURBOMAN
Quote: Originally Posted by trager
Now, I have a different issue. The clutch does not fully disengage. I adjusted the pedal all the way I could. I have also put in a new slave clyinder and filled and bled the clutch fluid. I cannot get the car in to reverse with the car running. It is also very hard to get it in to 1st gear as well. When it is in 1st gear, with the clutch pedal on the floor, the car inches forward similar to an automatic tranny. When I come to a stop with it in gear, the car shakes as if it is trying to move. I also noticed there is a white creamy kind of stuff floating in the clutch fluid resivoir. It seems like a white lithium grease floating around.

I would really appreciate some help trying to figure out what is wrong with my car. Thanks guys!

You will probably never get the answer to what is wrong , their is alot of people on here with the same exact problem if you do a search , but nobody got it fixed , I gues they just park the SRT & drive something else & wait on a miracle , good luck finding the answer .

I am going to put a new master cylinder in this weekend since that is the only thing I haven't tried yet. I was talking to John from PTP about this and he thinks that if the master doesn't fix it, it may be that the clutch disc is too thick not allowing it to release fully. I'll keep you guys posted.
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Old 06-14-2006, 02:23 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by trager
Quote: Originally Posted by 2.4TURBOMAN
Quote: Originally Posted by trager
Now, I have a different issue. The clutch does not fully disengage. I adjusted the pedal all the way I could. I have also put in a new slave clyinder and filled and bled the clutch fluid. I cannot get the car in to reverse with the car running. It is also very hard to get it in to 1st gear as well. When it is in 1st gear, with the clutch pedal on the floor, the car inches forward similar to an automatic tranny. When I come to a stop with it in gear, the car shakes as if it is trying to move. I also noticed there is a white creamy kind of stuff floating in the clutch fluid resivoir. It seems like a white lithium grease floating around.

I would really appreciate some help trying to figure out what is wrong with my car. Thanks guys!

You will probably never get the answer to what is wrong , their is alot of people on here with the same exact problem if you do a search , but nobody got it fixed , I gues they just park the SRT & drive something else & wait on a miracle , good luck finding the answer .

I am going to put a new master cylinder in this weekend since that is the only thing I haven't tried yet. I was talking to John from PTP about this and he thinks that if the master doesn't fix it, it may be that the clutch disc is too thick not allowing it to release fully. I'll keep you guys posted.

Cool deal both of mine have been replaced, but just waiting to get some things in before I get it out of the dealership. Hopefully by changing out the master and slave it fixed it. Please let us know. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2006, 10:06 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Damn, I am having similar problems but with the new ACT clutch. I was rolling into my subdivision and stopped at a stop sign. When I went to put it in first gear it wouldn't go at all. I rolled down the hill, forced it into 2nd and got it home. I replaced the master cylinder today. I started the car, pushed the clutch in, and I got a chatter sound when I tried to put it in 1st gear. I check the slave cylinder and it appeared to be leaking. So I order one this afternoon from my Dodge dealer (who had the nerve to ask me my vin # :evilgrin: ). I will install it on Monday and see what happens. Damn I should have kept my Clutch Master's Stage 4-6 puck.
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:18 AM   #55 (permalink)
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OK. I am having an issue and I cannot solve it.

I replaced the Stock Clutch and Throw-out bearing. I followed the FSM (and a couple How-To Guides) to the letter.

I bled the system at least 5 times.

I have also adjusted the Clutch Pedal a number of times to see if that could help.

Here are my symptoms:
  • Pedal = Spongy
  • While in Neutral, the wheels spin, the driver side one does the most
  • While in gear with the Clutch Pressed, the wheels spin

I really do not think it is the Master/Slave Cylinders...mostly because the wheels spin when I am out of gear. That one has me STUMPED.

I have also taken apart the entire tranny/clutch again to check my work, and everything was fine.

Any and all help would be GREATLY appreciated!
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:47 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by abubamsry
OK. I am having an issue and I cannot solve it.

I replaced the Stock Clutch and Throw-out bearing. I followed the FSM (and a couple How-To Guides) to the letter.

I bled the system at least 5 times.

I have also adjusted the Clutch Pedal a number of times to see if that could help.

Here are my symptoms:
  • Pedal = Spongy
  • While in Neutral, the wheels spin, the driver side one does the most
  • While in gear with the Clutch Pressed, the wheels spin

I really do not think it is the Master/Slave Cylinders...mostly because the wheels spin when I am out of gear. That one has me STUMPED.

I have also taken apart the entire tranny/clutch again to check my work, and everything was fine.

Any and all help would be GREATLY appreciated!

That is weird. It sounds like the clutch is the problem (in gear w/ clutch pushed in and wheels spin) Good luck man!!!

Last edited by trager : 06-17-2006 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:10 PM   #57 (permalink)
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NO, Every manual fwd car I've worked on the wheels can spin with the car running in neutral. It should stop though when the clutch is depressed.
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:13 PM   #58 (permalink)
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So then it probably is a Master/Slave Cylinder Issue?
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:49 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Could be. How much travel do you have from teh slave???? After talking with Nivo, he usually see's about 7/8" if I recall correctly. I see a tad more than that.
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Old 06-17-2006, 07:27 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote: Originally Posted by red
Could be. How much travel do you have from teh slave???? After talking with Nivo, he usually see's about 7/8" if I recall correctly. I see a tad more than that.

You mean travel from the Slave while it is installed?

Or while I am bleeding?
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