Clutch not fully disengaging, new clutch master already installed - Dodge SRT Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2009, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch not fully disengaging, new clutch master already installed

The vehicle is an 03 with a t850 transmission. The bushing connecting the pedal to the clutch master broke last weekend and the car wouldn't go into gear. Of course because the bushings broken and I'm not fully depressing the clutch. While I was under the dash I noticed the clutch master leaking so I went ahead and replaced the whole clutch master cylinder. Now that its all said and done the car is still difficult to get into gear.

-There's no air in the lines (I removed the slave cylinder and pumped it quite a bit. Same thing in the car with the clutch pedal)

-The clutch master is at the very end of its adjustment. I pulled the pedal as far back as I could while I tightened the adjustment.

I'm thinking it could be the TOB fork but I wanna get some opinions before I start dismantling. The clutch doesn't slip at all.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 12:26 AM
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well usually signs of a bad tob fork are:

-Clutch engages as soon as you let out the clutch pedal from the floor when in gear.
-Hard to get into first and reverse
-If your in 1st gear and holding the clutch to the floor and the car starts to move forward.
-Worst it can get which i experienced is when you push the clutch all the way in and you can hear the tob fork hitting the clutch. (Felt like a bad vibration and it didnt sound that good).

I think thats basically it. Usually i can tell how worn down my tob fork is by just knowing where the clutch pedal adjusment is, but it sounds like you never payed attention to it.

1993 Mr2 Turbo (sold)
2004 SRT4 silver (sold)
2004 SRT4 E-blue
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:38 AM
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You could swap slaves with someone to double check yours,
my master cylinder was leaking and I replaced it, then it still wouldnt let me into gear (pedal was squishy) and I replaced the slave and it worked.
have you tried adjusting the pedal back some?
Check the cable crossover adjustment and the bushings on the tranny.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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Ok well the local stealership has 1 slave cylinder in stock so I'm gonna go pick that up and i'm pretty sure it'll fix the issue. I did notice while I was bleeding the clutch that the bushing on the rod of the slave cylinder was split and halfway down the rod. That might just be my issue huh?

On a separate note, where did you guys buy the 6638a tool? Or what do you do to remove the quick disconnect?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 10:43 AM
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I pressed the white plastic piece in with a screwdriver, on both sides, so it was barely showing, and it slid off.

It could be the issue, couldnt hurt replace, the first time my master went, it seemed it took out the slave with it, or vice versa. My pedal was slightly squishy (even after replacing the master, where before that I had no pedal at all), and worked if I pumped the clutch. After driving for a bit there would be no pedal. When I put on the slave , all better

Last edited by MASSSRT; 11-07-2009 at 10:48 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, Is that bushing that I mentioned supposed to be between the rod and the TOB Fork? I would assume so but I wont know for sure untill I have the new one in my hands..
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 02:35 PM
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If there is a bushing halfway down the slave rod, Im wondering if it popped out of the cylinder, otherwise there is a black plastic piece on the end of the slave (does yours have that?) , if that broke, that would shorten the slave's movement, which I would guess could make it so it doesnt extend far enough to disengage the clutch.
Thats just a guess though, otherwise if its like a ring shaped bushing on the rod it sounds like it came from the end of the cylinder part.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the old one vs. the new one. The retainer wasnt properly removed at the factory from what I can tell because the part that attaches to the cylinder was still in their. Made a little difference, but still has the same issue. Looks like it's going to need a new TOB fork after all =/......


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:05 PM
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Do a search on the syptoms
it could also be clutch
mine was not disengaging and the springs had fallen out of the disc
check the shifter bushings on the tranny and shifter and do the crossover adjustment first
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:07 PM
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Also, did you try adjusting the pedal back some?
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Yea the pedal is as far back as it can go. Not sure how you do the crossover adjustment but I just replaced the shifter bushings recently on both sides with energy suspension bushings. It's not the shifter tho because the car creeps forward with the clutch pedal all the way down. Usually when a clutch is dead it wont engage untill you have your foot completely off of it. This is the complete opposite.... I so dont want to drop the transmission........
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 06:33 PM
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Since the master and slave were bad, you could try adjusting the pedal back some
there are two bushings on the tranny (under your battery)
the crossover adjustment is on thr shifter, the drivers side bushing
you put the car in third, loosen the nut and tighten it where it sits naturally in third
but ya by the sounds if that it may be the fork
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