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Clutch fork feedback

11K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  dodgezdad 
#1 ·
Hey guys it's finally that time for me to change this stuff and I would like a fork that will last. I'd like to hear feedback from the forks you've used. I'm all stock. While the fork is being changed I will have these changed also. What else needs to be added?

1 Rear main Seal
1 Fork
1 Brass fork pivot ball
4 OEM flywheel to Clutch Module bolts
1 Sachs OEM clutch with TOB bearing
 
#4 ·
Im going with the AGP since the billet forks are long gone... I knew I should have bought it back then lesson learned.

Now I'm trying to figure out which TOB to go with

Sachs on the left, or Mopar on the right?
 

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#5 ·

I've used OEM and ACT. My brother has whatever DCR sells as theirs. I'd use either in my car. I totally understand that you're careful and want to make the right choice and not have to drop the trans twice. By looking at that sach's I wouldn't be scared.
I'd run from the one that looks like this though: I was sold one labeled as a 2004 srt4 throwout bearing. They goofed somehow at cragen. Only buy parts online I guess.
 
#7 ·
Talk of chatter from the tob made me nervous. It appears the sachs is more beefier but its missing the redish orange gasket the Mopar has.
 
#8 ·
They all chatter lol. The bearing isn't the weakpoint. The fork wears out before anything else. I think I have 30k on my wikyd fork and can't really tell if its worn or not which is great. I have the mopar STS with ball bearings so its kinda notchy.
 
#9 ·
Doing the same as the OP. Car rattles bad ATM w/ all stock drivetrain parts @143K.

Does this DCR Upgraded Clutch Slave Cylinder really work at reducing rattle from fork & TOB?
DCR Upgraded Clutch Slave Cylinder
 
#14 ·
The AGP forks wear alright. I'll post a thread about mine within a month or less, whenever my wikyd fork gets here. My agp fork has roughly 45k on it. The reason I know it wears is because about 5 months after I installed it, I had to replace the clutch because it started slipping. When I dropped the trans, I noticed the wear (from an ACT HD pressure plate). I forgot to snap a pic of it because I was swapping the gear set for one that I built. This was 2 years ago, and I can only imagine the wear that's on it by now.
 
#16 ·
Thank you for the feedback. I'll give feedback as time goes on but I don't put alot of miles on the car so I don't know if my input will be valid. My average is about 6500 miles per year. I went with the AGP so I hope it stands up, its a shame SNL stopped making the billet fork but I understand why.
 
#18 ·
Well if the fork is billet its just going to wear the throwout bearing faster. My throwout bearings have deep grooves after I'm done with them as is. Billet is a stupid idea. Its common sense chemistry or geology {The Mohs scale}. Whatever is harder will beat the snot out of the other part.
 
#19 ·
Wikyd doesn't weld their tabs on. They use epoxy.
 
#28 ·
We did up til about 2 yrs ago, never had issues, but upgraded some equipment and now Tig weld them all. made production a bit quicker, yes I still make them thru our site wikydperformance.com, and many folks just deal with me on Fb as Rob Moreno. Still after 6 years, the issues can be counted on one had, and most was from folks half assing and not installing the clip or grommet back on the pivot ball sd. But we take care of any issues. Always have.
 
#21 ·
So with the wikyd fork-I imagine that those extra 3 millimeters would help with the disengagement issues a lot of us have with 1st and reverse and notchy shifting?

I ask because after replacing the clutch, TOB,TOB fork, master&slave cylinder and adding a stainless steel clutch line as well as bled the hell out of the hydraulic system (you name it I've done it all) I feel like shifting can still be improved.

I mean- the car shifts butter smooth as long as the pedal is in the highest position (which I dislike). If I lower the clutch pedal shifting becomes really hard. Would adding those extra tabs on my fork allow me to lower the clutch pedal to a more comfortable position meanwhile keeping a butter smooth shifting experience?

Not sure if I made sense lol ?
 
#22 · (Edited)
I know exactly what you mean.... But even with my wikyd fork, brass ball, brand new OEM mopar slave, brand new OEM master, the car goes into 1st and reverse fine but still a little notchy. My pedal is all the way out. :( 80% of this was fixed with solid shifter base bushings. I also threw ball bearings in the cable bushings. I bet most of it is from my mopar short shifter, the rest of it is from the act street disk setup. The only thing I can imagine.
Buy the METAL shifter base bushings and report back. This gets rid of so much play. You know how when you're doing the cross over adjustment and you barely move the shifter and it moves on the cables a lot? Well if the whole damn shifter is moving side to side it is moving the cables as well.
These bushings kind of makes that adjustment hold its position better if that makes any sense. Best 25 bucks i spent.
 
#23 ·
I actually bought an adjustable slave rod for my old build because I had the XT flexplate and it was tough to get full disengagement. I had replaced everything as well. It made things better, but still not quite right. I added a hurst shifter and removed the really short throw aftermarket shifter I had at the time and that made the final improvement that made things all better.
 
#24 ·
Got the ride back today after getting flexplate, clutch, pivot, tob, fork, rear main seal, axle seals, chra (feed line also) O2 sensors, trans flush, and oil change. My goodness it's like warm apple pie....

I had a Maddog sts 70% but went back to stock and also added the solid metal bushings for the shifter base and it did made quite a difference. Rage tech bushings ftw along with ragetech pivot arm and SS clutch line.
 
#25 ·
Glad it's shifting better. With so many changes at once I wonder if you reinstalled the shifter how it would effect performance.

I'd be reluctant to give up my short throw. Going to grease it up and throw ES base bushings today before major changes on Monday.
 
#27 ·
When I had the 70% in there 1st and reverse always made me feel like I was going to break something which is why I switched back to stock. Everything was gravy until a week ago. The wear points on my fork were flat as a pancake.
 
#29 ·
Here's my old monster clutch billet fork after 20k miles with an ACT XT pressure plate on my old silver car (now totalled). It has essentially no wear on the pads (just a little shine at the contact patches), but some marks up on the sides of the forks (see pics)...







20k isn't a lot, but a stocker at 20k would have a huge gouge in it.
 
#30 ·
Quit braggin [emoji1] I should have bought one when they were released.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
 
#33 ·
Has anyone tried the DCR Slave Cylinder that suppost to stop with the clutch fork rattle? When I 1st start my car and its cool or cold out side I get zero rattle but after time and everything warms up I get a ton of fork rattle.

I even put a video of it on youtube.


https://youtu.be/cAgmMaFDvQ8
 
#35 ·
I already have a brand new Wikyd clutch fork that I haven't installed yet. But I also would like to get a new ACT TOB and DCR slave cylinder. Since I have the ACT HDSS already and I've had that for about 2yrs now I would like to also get a ACT sprung 6 puck clutch since the transmission would be dropped. So I'm gunna save up and buy those parts then save some more to get it installed. I would like to try to do it myself but it's my only vehicle and if I screw it up I have no way to get to work and drive around.
And as for your question I really don't know.
 
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