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Which clutch to buy???

2K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  4mikebruns 
#1 ·
Alright guys I know everyone is going to say go with an act kit, But I'm trying to figure out which clutch you guys would buy if act wasn't an option..
 
#3 ·
I agree to move away from modular if possible. And your power goals will dictate a lot when it comes to clutch choice. I didn't go the cookie cutter route(ACT), I had a local clutch shop build me a custom clutch to my own specs. Two summers and who knows how many thousands of miles later, it's still doing the job flawlessly.


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#5 ·
I'm in the market for a new clutch as well. From what I've read, it seems ACT is a very popular choice.

Why do you guys say to move away from modular? I read a thread saying that if it's not machined perfectly that it can cause issues but is that why?

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#8 ·
I'm in the market for a new clutch as well. From what I've read, it seems ACT is a very popular choice.

Why do you guys say to move away from modular? I read a thread saying that if it's not machined perfectly that it can cause issues but is that why?

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Because modular setups are heavy and not serviceable without replacing entire unit.
 
#11 ·
Zacr11, I know you mentioned clutch brands besides ACT, but...

I installed an ACT HDSS clutch 65K miles ago and have nothing but praise for it's durability with my stout Stage 3.
The long life might be helped by rev matching at downshifts.

During installation I installed a new OEM fork with anti-sieze paste on the TO bearing wear points, and since the plastic pivot ball was cracked at teardown, a new plastic ball was installed with some epoxy loaded in the hole before popping it on the old shaft. By filling the air space between the ball and shaft (with epoxy) I was hoping to prevent future plastic ball flexing/cracking.
 
#12 ·
Well I appreciate all the input I am already non modular act 6 puck the guy that owned the car before me installed I guess he was looking to make more power but never got around to it.. I'm full s3 with a few other things made 407 so the sbc sounds good but I would have to go back with a flexplate correct?? I'm just going to have to compare some prices does anyone have anything to say about the longtime on the sbc??
 
#14 ·
If you already have a six-puck ACT setup, is it worn out and slipping or do you want to change the engagement characteristics? ACT sells service kits with new friction discs and pressure plate which saves a few hundred dollars or more over a full kit with new flywheel, but if you go that route you'd need to get the flywheel resurfaced from a reputable machine show so they keep the correct "step" which is the area on the flywheel that keeps the disc/pressure plate at the correct engagement distance from the flywheel.

The two varieties as mentioned are modular clutch kits which come pre-assmbled and bolt to the stock flex plate. If you already have an ACT clutch you'd have to factor in the cost of a new flex plate if you don't have one sitting around. The aftermarket clutch companies take apart stock Sachs clutches assemblies and rebuild them with their own friction disc. Sometimes they'll try to modify the pressure ring/mounting of the stock diaphragm springs in the stock pressure plate to increase clamping force, which if you're using a disc with better frictional characteristics may not be required and will put extra/excessive force on the crankshaft's thrust bearing (the same applies to non-modular, conventional clutch kits that use excessively strong pressure plates for the disc and/or application).

The biggest downsides to the rebuilt OEM clutches are in performance applications well above stock. There's more mass and the stock flywheel and pressure plate use heavier, nodular grey iron and also have the extra weight of the flex plate to the rotating assembly. If they don't put it back together absolutely perfectly and there's an imbalance it can put extra wear on the input shaft bearing, end crankshaft bearing, and potentially come apart at high rpms (and is much more likely to be damaged or fail if you miss a shift or neutral free rev the engine way too high if you disable stock rev limiter in the tune).

Another downside is the iron material doesn't take well to excessive heat cycles. If the clutch rebuilder puts in an aggressive friction and you're making a lot of power and slip it a lot the flywheel and pressure plate won't dissipate heat as well as other steel and iron compositions, which could lead to surface cracking and sudden failure. This was usually at really high power levels back when there weren't any non-modular options. The rebuilt modular setup might be okay for their rated mid-range power levels but not for dedicated track or extreme use.

Since you have an ACT setup, they've held up well, and they offer many different friction material options on replacement discs, assuming the flywheel isn't severely overheated I'd get the flywheel resurface, find a new disc/pressure plate to match your intended power levels and use, buy new mounting bolt/fasteners, a new Mopar release (throw out) bearing, release fork, release fork pivot ball and call it a day.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've ran and installed many different clutch setups. I personally like ACT a lot and their customer service is absolutely awesome. I've installed too many to count and I've ran quite a few myself all the way from a sshd-xtd6. recently I have had some trouble with act though so I don't know if they just had a couple bad batches of clutches go out or what, but again they was more than willing to replace the product for no charge. I currently moved over to a Spec clutch and its even better than any act I've ever ran, build quality of it just looking at the two together spec is much beefier but also more pricey. and by going through certain people spec has beyond anyone else's customer service. I've had nothing but good from them. and lastly I have owned a clutch master s4 and it was absolutely garbage and customer service was the nuts. they basically told me that I couldn't drive my car and that was the reason for a spring to leave the clutch disk under 6k miles.
*Spec if you have the money
*ACT for reliability at a decent price
*CM might as well just put your money in the garbage can and light it on fire.
if EDUB20 would ever get on here he can tell you that a stock clutch will last a damn long time. he had one in his current car up to 120k miles plenty of track use and a 5858.
 
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#17 ·
LOL I remember only too well the clutch wars we used to have here when certain people here insisted CM S4 (modular) was the only way to go and that I had bought the wrong clutch when I chose a Mopar Performance Clutch (modular). I never ran a CM S4 but never had any trouble with the two Mopar clutches either, except the fact that they simply wore out. I tried an ACT DN4-HDSS (non-modular) and it wore out quicker than the two Mopar units. Currently running an SBC S2 (modular) clutch and it's working out quite well both for holding and for durability. I guess my gimpy left leg is hard on clutches and Stage 4 fast spool exacerbates the clutch wear somewhat.
 
#18 ·
I ran a CM Fx400 6 puck on my last SRT which was full bolt ons and tune. Back in 2009 the clutches seemed a lot cheaper. I don't remember exactly how much it was but the FX400 is definitely more expensive than it was then. I' battling between a OEM clutch or an SB stage 2 right now.
 
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